The most popular in our North Coast 500 Guide series, here are 23 things you absolutely have to know before driving the North Coast 500
(updated May 2021 following recent government announcements)
“Wherever I wander, wherever I rove,
The hills of the Highlands for ever I love.”
We had long dreamed of discovering the Scottish Highlands together, and the creation of the North Coast 500 offered the perfect opportunity.
It is, quite simply, a jaw-droppingly beautiful road trip route.
Some of the most picturesque scenery in Europe can be found in the Scottish Highlands and you will devour it all as you travel these narrow, winding roads from Inverness to John O'Groats and back down the coast.
But that's not all.
There are stunning deserted sandy beaches with Caribbean blue waters (seriously), artisan gin and whisky distilleries, delicious fresh seafood, picturesque lochs, historic golf courses and beautiful castles, proper Scottish hospitality, wonderful walking routes, a diverse array of wildlife and enough outdoor activities to tire out even the most active of adventurers.
The North Coast 500 (also known as the NC500) offers everyone a taste of the 'tartan, bagpipes and shortbread' Scotland you've seen in the brochures but, importantly, has enough surprises over the five hundred plus miles stretch to make you think about the country in an entirely different way. Although every roadtripper or traveller will share a similar appreciation of stunning isolated landscapes and breathtakingly wild coastal scenes along the way, each will also be able to craft and curate their own version of the NC500 based on what they love the most.
One half of this blog, a proud Scotsman, knew very little of what lay north of Inverness given that 'travel' to him had always meant venturing to countries far from his homeland; but our own North Coast 500 trip changed all that, and developed a deep appreciation in both of us for what lay on our own doorsteps.
And allowed us to meet plenty sheep. Lots of sheep. And a good few ginger Highland cows too!
We spent eight days driving the famous 516 mile route (sorry Proclaimers fans, it's not actually 500) and, in this North Coast 500 guide, we've shared some valuable lessons and the really essential things to know in advance so you can prepare perfectly for your own road trip in the Highlands. Aside from practical tips about driving these remote country roads, designing your itinerary, avoiding the crowds, and personal accommodation recommendations for your Scottish staycation, we've also shared plenty of inspiration on the best North Coast 500 places to visit.
The guide has also been updated with incredibly important information about responsibly travelling the North Coast 500 in 2021.
These are 23 Essential Things to Know Before Driving in the North Coast 500.
Our Tips for Driving the North Coast 500
So, What Actually Is The North Coast 500?
The roads which form this famous route have always been there.
However, the 'North Coast 500' is the new name given to a specific circular itinerary created by the non-profit North Highland Initiative in 2014 to foster wider awareness of this remote, rural part of Scotland as a tourist destination, boost and diversify the local economy, and to make it a little easier for people to plan their time up here. Six regions of the Highlands are included within the route: Inverness-shire, Wester Ross, Easter Ross, Sutherland, Caithness, and the Black Isle.
It has proved wildly successful, due in large part to the natural beauty and tranquility of the true Scottish Highlands and the hospitality found in between its wide open spaces. Our suspicion is that its incredible popularity is also due to the fact its creation coincided with the growth of Instagram as a key source of travel inspiration for lots of people.
This popularity has not come without its issues however, and these are showing a worrying increase each summer.
Many in the media call it 'Scotland's Route 66', but for us you should throw that comparison out the window; this is a road trip without comparison. We've been fortunate enough to road trip together through southern Italy, Morocco, the Faroe Islands, Sweden, the Dolomites and a few other places in the last few years, and we can tell you that this route is very, very special and can stand on its own two feet.
This really is Britain’s best road trip.
All Roads Lead To Inverness
The route begins and ends in the northernmost city in Scotland: Inverness. Technically it starts at the Castle in the centre, but you don't really have to start there.
Travellers have the option to start the defined circular NC500 route by heading west towards the Applecross peninsula, before taking on the long winding roads of the gorgeous west coast through Gairloch and Ullapool, then on to Durness, Wick and John O'Groats on the northern tip of mainland Scotland. Alternatively, you can go in the other direction and head east from Inverness towards Wick and John O'Groats via the sweeping coastal landscapes of the Black Isle.
Whether you go clockwise or anticlockwise from Inverness, you'll be driving the NC500 for the full 516 miles (830 kms), will visit the same places along the way, and your trip will officially end once you're back in the small city split by the river Ness.
Take a look at the North Coast 500 map, route, and our itinerary here.
This means it's sensible to drive, fly, or train into Inverness and bookend your travels with a night or two there.
Inverness Airport serves limited domestic and international routes, but has direct flights from London, Amsterdam, and Belfast. However, it's also possible to fly into Aberdeen and drive the 2.5 hours to Inverness, or take the scenic train between the two northern cities. If you are travelling in Scotland for a long period of time, then you could also arrive in Glasgow or Edinburgh and spend time there before driving or taking the train north.
If you live in the UK, then you can of course opt to drive your own car or camper van up to Inverness as part of an extended road trip, or take the train to Inverness and rent your car there.
Plan | We’ve shared all the key information on how to get to Inverness, plus how to spend your time in the city before or after your North Coast 500 adventure, in this post: Our Wee Guide to Inverness.
If you're visiting Scotland and need to rent a car to do the North Coast 500, this post tells you nine ways to save money on car rental + car rental insurance. We also recommend checking out AutoEurope to find and book affordable car rentals in Inverness and the rest of Scotland - you need to book your rental car in advance to get the best deals and a smaller car is best if you're worried about the roads.
THE NORTH COAST 500 DRIVING EXPERIENCE IS ONE OF A KIND
The red and blue stickered sign at the foot of the infamous Bealach na Bà pass reads "not advised for learner drivers", but that advice could easily apply to the majority of roads that you'll encounter along the NC500.
Narrow, winding, single track country roads are all that you'll be travelling for around 200 miles across various sections of the route. Blind corners and summits, hairpin bends and vertiginous edges are commonplace. Throw in that sheep and lambs are often mooching at the side or in the middle of the road, the possibility of a deer suddenly leaping in front of you and, of course, increased traffic given the route's recent upsurge in popularity, and it's certainly a drive unlike any other.
Some will absolutely love the driving experience offered (a big reason why it's become a huge bucket-list item for sports car and Top Gear types), whilst others may spend hours gripping the wheel in fear. Andrew, despite his initial trepidation and frequent failure to make it out of third gear, loved taking on the country roads and, for both of us, simply navigating more than five hundred miles across the Scottish Highlands was memorable in and of itself.
However, the inexperienced and those not used to driving on the left should approach this route with caution and the correct mindset. In terms of conditions, we can report that there aren't any dusty roads along the NC500 route, but you will encounter quite a few potholes!
If you can’t drive or don’t want to drive, then you could join a 3-day small group North Coast 500 tour departing from Inverness. Find out more here and here.
Know, Respect, And Follow The Rules of The Road
All drivers (especially Clarkson types) need to note that driver etiquette and road awareness is hugely important when driving the North Coast 500.
These old country roads roads link remote communities, are access points for workers and medical care, and were not designed for the scale of traffic which arrives come Scottish summertime. It's therefore incredibly important to prepare and know the following in advance:
Always drive on the left, and keep to the left as much as possible when on a road with no markings.
Keep a sensible speed at all times. These are not roads for you to try and drive like an idiot and it is most certainly not a race track. Although the official speed limit on single carriage roads in Scotland is 60 mph, you should not be driving at that speed very often on the North Coast 500. Please don't be a dick.
Drink driving limits in Scotland are strict, different to the rest of the UK, and strictly observed - as a guest in the country, you have to observe them too. You can find the specific limits here, but the best rule of thumb is to just leave the drinking until you're done with your driving for the day (and ensure that you have given your body ample time to process the alcohol before setting off again in the morning).
There are lots of blind summits and sharp, blind corners - they are usually signposted, but it's your job to anticipate these and approach sensibly.
Do not use your phone whilst driving - that includes texting, calling, and inputting directions.
Livestock and wildlife obstacles are not uncommon, including sheep and errant deer, as well as reversing cars, cyclists, and walkers. Concentrate, be aware of your surroundings, and drive with consideration.
Patience. With local drivers and first-time drivers in the UK sharing these narrow rural roads, there are always going to be points of congestion or moments when you're stuck behind a very slow car (or a tractor). Be patient and enjoy the scenery, rather than trying to overtake or tailgating. If you're the slow, cautious driver (nothing wrong with that by the way) and you've got someone driving very close to you or a queue building up behind, then you should pull in to a 'passing place' on your left hand side when sensible and let them all safely overtake and go ahead of you.
Lastly, aside from the myriad of motorhomes, camper vans and caravans, motorcycle troops, bicycle groups and sports car convoys present on the roads here, always remember that these are country roads used by locals each and every day. Not all who live up here are happy about the route's recent success (increased tourist traffic and congestion on the roads being a big reason), and so visitors must go out of their way to be respectful and drive sensibly at all times.
Learn The Art of the Passing Place
The most important skill you will come away with after the NC500, especially if you're not experienced at driving in the British countryside, is the underappreciated art of the 'passing place'.
On the single track roads which are so common along the route, and integral to making it such a unique driving experience, it is simply not wide enough for two cars at the same time; that's why there are so many of these 'passing places'. Sometimes defined by a solitary black-and-white pole, sometimes signposted with a diamond-shaped white sign with the words 'passing place' in black text, and sometimes not marked out at all, you need to be aware of these, anticipate them and embrace them. If a car is oncoming, one of you has to safely and sensibly pull into the passing place to give way, rather than view it as a mutual game of 'who's going to stop first'.
Thankfully, there is a clear etiquette.
The vehicle closest to a 'passing place' on their side of the road has the responsibility to pull into it. So, if you've got a passing place accessible on your left, you should go into it and let the other car proceed.
If you are closest to a 'passing place', but it's on the right hand side of the road, then it's your responsibility to wait on the left hand side of the road so that the approaching car can safely arrive and pull into the passing place to let you proceed. In this situation, a driver might flash their lights to let you know to proceed as they've safely pulled into a 'passing place' and are waiting for you to proceed.
Sometimes two vehicles will meet in the middle of the road just through bad timing. In that scenario, the expectation is that the person closest to the nearest 'passing place' on their side of the road should reverse into it, but only if it is safe and sensible for them to do so.
That's why you've really got to pay attention at all times, and why it should be very clear by now why driving at high speeds on the North Coast 500 is a fool's errand.
Or, to adopt Andrew's vernacular, makes you a complete arsehole.
Please also note that 'passing places' are NOT parking places. Neither are they photo opportunity stops or places to pull over for a rest, a cup of tea and a natter - you can however use them to allow others to overtake you safely. On hills, the custom is that the car going uphill has priority.
If you are going to be driving a motorhome, then please read further specific advice here.
Wave, Flash, Smile
In Italy, the quickest way to know a tourist is driving a car is because they use their indicators correctly; on the NC500, it's because they never bloody wave.
A basic but treasured piece of driver etiquette in Scotland is the wee wave to acknowledge drivers who have stopped to let you pass safely. This is sacrosanct and oft-used given the frequency of those passing places, so get ready to use it often on your trip (Andrew goes for a very casual raising of the index finger, but some people go for a full palm wave!)
If you're the driver giving way and the opposing driver acknowledges you, then always reciprocate. However, if you have been a complete arsehole at a 'passing place', you may receive a different sort of hand gesture from the opposing driver; this is another treasured piece of driver etiquette in Scotland.
there are many ways to do the North Coast 500
As hinted at above, there are a variety of tourists and travellers making their way around the NC500 at the same time. That's largely due to the fact that accommodation and activities along the route cater to a diverse range of tastes and budgets - the only common denominator is that most people require a passion for Scotland and some wheels (although we did see a couple of hitch-hikers!).
From those driving a Lamborghini and used to luxury to families on a two week hill-walking holiday, a camping cyclist, a group of motorcyclists, staycationing friends, tourers in a motorhome, or a couple on a romantic long weekend, each will find something to suit them. There's picturesque campsites and some excellent hostels, five-star B&Bs and incredible castle hotels or homely hotels, shepherd huts, family-run guesthouses, and cool pods by the beach. All are available at various points along the route, whilst your food can come from stockpiling from the supermarket in Inverness (more on that later) to pub grub, self-catering or fine-dining at some exquisite seafood restaurants.
The beauty of a road trip like this is that anyone can do it - the views are the same if you're in an old banger or a muscle car, on a budget or a billionaire - and if you take the time to do some research beforehand, you will be able to plan a route which marries accommodation, facilities and service providers to suit your personal tastes and budget.
If you want to experience Scotland at its best, either on a budget or where cost is no concern, then the North Coast 500 will deliver.
Book Your Accommodation Now. Seriously.
As the North Coast 500 increases in popularity each year, and with more considering it in 2020 than in previous years due to foreign travel travel restrictions or concerns, it's become even more important to reserve your accommodation in advance.
Everyone will be following a similar loop over four days to two weeks with several clearly defined accommodation 'hubs' along the way, and it's common for July slots fill up in January. Room occupancy rates increased by 26% from 2014 to 2018 and, although more accommodation options pop up each year, demand often outstrips supply in the summer season.
So, if you know your dates already, we strongly advise starting to look at booking accommodation sooner rather than later to improve your chances of getting a place that's suitable for your budget, your travel style, and your itinerary.
You can check availability and prices on more than 600 accommodation options along the route on booking.com here.
However, we know that choosing the right hotel, hostel, B&B, Airbnb, glampsite, or self-catering cottage involves a lot of work, wasted time and research, so we decided to help you out. Based on our own experiences and research, we've created this North Coast 500 Accommodation guide. It includes our personal picks of the best accommodation options along key sections of route for various budgets and travel styles (including dog-friendly choices) - hopefully you will find something that's perfect for you!
It’s also important to be aware that many places only allow you to check-in from 4 p.m. onwards.
April 2021 Update | We speak more about new regulations and restrictions in place due to the pandemic later in this post. However, it's important to note here that several self-catering accommodation options along the route have introduced a 3-night minimum stay due to enhanced cleaning requirements between stays. Some guesthouses and hotels are choosing not to reopen this summer, whilst others have reduced availability and capacity due to social distancing requirements.
Read Later | The Best North Coast 500 Accommodation + Places To Stay Along The Way
The Best Time To Travel the North Coast 500
As we've mentioned, the North Coast 500 has been wildly successful since its creation in 2014. When we first drove it in 2016, it had some press attention but was still flying under the radar; it’s now busier each year.
Now, that isn't something to fret about too much. The wide open spaces, empty wild beaches, and isolated hiking trails are not adversely affected, but it does obviously have an impact on accommodation availability, facilities, and traffic congestion.
The NC500 is always going to be busiest in the peak summer tourism months of June, July, and August. This is when the famously unpredictable Scottish weather is at its most predictable (although still massively unpredictable...much more on that later), the days are longest and most light-filled, and conditions are ideal for lots of outdoors activities. It also coincides with British school holiday season.
However, as its popularity has increased, the visitor season on the route has extended closer to seven months. May and September are really great options if you're hoping to share the road with fewer vehicles, whilst the route would still be absolutely beautiful in the early spring months or further into autumn.
As for winter...well, we're sure the landscapes would be utterly enchanting, but we wouldn't attempt it then.
It would be irresponsible of us not to mention here that travelling outside of the main season does mean some businesses will not be open, that unpredictable weather is more predictably dreich (bleak), and the days are short with late sunrises and early sunsets.
In terms of avoiding the crowds along the route, early starts in the morning are the absolute best way. Further, the majority of people on the NC500 are focussed on driving the route and sightseeing, rather than stopping for a few hours to explore a specific place or hike, so you'll often have trails and some beauty spots to yourselves with people actually only stopping for a short period of time there before moving on. Lastly, don't be scared about going OFF the designated route to explore - there are many beautiful places here in the Highlands hills and along the coast that aren't on the defined North Coast 500 route and will be blissfully left alone.
five days is not nearly enough to fully enjoy the North Coast 500
'How many days does it take to drive the North Coast 500?' is a very different question to 'How many days should you spend on the North Coast 500?'
The cyclist James McCallum managed to peddle it all in 31 hours a few years ago - and then did the loop twice in less than 95 hours in 2018! . You could easily, theoretically at least, drive it comfortably in two days...but what would be the point in that? Trust us, once you've made it up to this part of the world, you'll want to have more than 48 hours in it.
The official North Coast 500 route suggestions point to five day itineraries for motorists; in our opinion, that should be treated as a minimum.
With our own eight day North Coast 500 itinerary, we thought we would have plenty time to do and see everything worthwhile and would actually be struggling to fill our days; we couldn't have been more wrong! As photographers, we always take a little longer on road trips because of the amount of stops we have to make (trust us, your camera will LOVE it here), but we actually still felt a little rushed and had to forego a few of the places we had been looking forward to (like the Smoo Caves) in order to make another site in another town, or arrive at our accommodation with enough time to enjoy it and find some food for the evening.
Of course, the amount of days you'll spend on the route depends on various factors like your budget, annual leave, how much time you have on your hands, your travel style, love of the outdoors, and your ability to put up with your kids or partner in the car for sustained periods of time... so we completely understand that longer won't always be possible. If your main ambition is simply to tick it off the bucket list, enjoy the scenery, food and main sights, then you will be able to squeeze it all in over four or five days if you cater your route accordingly - but, we suspect, you might just regret doing it so quickly.
After all, you don't just want to be looking at the coastal and mountain scenery from the car seat; you want to immerse yourself fully within it.
Read Later | Our North Coast 500 Route + How To Plan Your Own
Read Next | A Beginner's North Coast 500 Planning Guide
Take A Week Or Two To Savour It
Therefore, if you are able to squeeze in a few more days and go a little slower, then you absolutely will not regret it - it’s the best way fully drink in the world class beauty all around you.
We could have had easily spent two weeks on the NC500, especially when the weather was on our side. This would have allowed us more time to discover each place and explore some of its less accessible hidden gems, bag some Munros (a 3,000+ feet Scottish hill if you didn't already know), rush less and enjoy more of what we were there to see.
For us, slow travel is always better, more meaningful, and more sustainable for local communities and infrastructure, and the North Coast 500 is certainly designed for that mentality. Identify a couple of base villages, go off the main loop to explore lesser-visited parts, have that day or two walking munros or by the beach, savour the opportunity to kayak in the North Sea, go fishing, or do nothing but drink in the beauty of nature alongside a glass of red or a stiff G&T when you don't have any more driving to do for the day.
Therefore, we'd personally recommend seven to ten days to drive the North Coast 500 days as perfect for most of you. If you have the budget and want to explore the route at an even more sedate pace, relax as an NC500 2020 summer staycation holiday, or just have more time exploring the glorious wilderness of the Scottish Highlands, then you'll love two weeks.
Insider tip | If you can extend your time in the Highlands, pick a town or village you like the sound of and use it as a base for two to three nights to explore and enjoy the surrounding area, as well as take some day-trips to points elsewhere. It's an essential ingredient to a successful road trip - we've shared some suggestions in our North Coast 500 Itinerary and our NC500 Accommodation Post.
Mobile phone and internet signal are intermittent in the Highlands
Any foreign visitor might be a little surprised that such a tech blackspot still exists in the UK. However, the majority of the times we checked for phone or 3G/4G signal, there was nothing at all.
Now, this can rightly be viewed very much as a positive aspect of the NC500 route - a rare chance to disconnect, escape the world for a while and remove the everyday distractions which could detract from your enjoyment of all the beauty of the Highlands.
However, it's also important to know about this in advance so you can prepare accordingly i.e. take a paper note of your accommodation's address and telephone number as you won't always have Google to back you up, create an offline Google map on your mobile (find out how in this short guide), and make people at home aware you may be difficult to reach whilst you're driving the route.
Each accommodation in which we stayed on the North Coast 500 did have wi-fi of good enough quality for basic browsing and checking on e-mails, the news, social media etc, but just don't expect rapid speeds.
Many large villages have at least a couple of bars of phone signal, so if you really do need to make a call, take note of where the next stop is on the map and be sure to check when you're passing through.
Further Information | Check out where we stayed on the North Coast 500 or find out the five best castles you can stay at on your Scottish road trip!.
On the NC500, signposts and maps are better than GPS
When we picked up Jock the Jeep in Inverness (find some of the best deals on North Coast 500 car and jeep rentals here), we input our first stop off point into the GPS (Muir of Ord). However, on approaching the Kessock Bridge (not on the route), we realised that perhaps relying on the car's system was not going to be the best approach for navigating a route which intentionally sends you the 'long way round'.
Although the North Coast 500 route is clearly defined, it is not a single road in isolation which will take you all around the coast back to Inverness.
So, if you plan on sticking to the prescribed path, our tip is to switch off the GPS (which is trying to get you from A to B in the quickest way possible) and instead keep an eye out for the brown tourist trail roadsigns. These signs don't actually say 'North Coast 500' but rather things like 'Wester-Ross Tourist Route' or 'Coastal Route'. However, once you've made it out of Inverness, it'll be quite clear what to follow and these brown signs are well placed, so you're unlikely to go too wrong and end up driving straight up to Ullapool along the A835!
Insider Tip | It's also a good idea to just sit down for an hour or two to plot and prepare everything related to your itinerary before you hit the road, so that it's all organised in one place and you don't have to rely on a data connection to access it. As well as a sheet of paper with key information (hotel addresses and numbers), we used one of our tried-and-trusted road trip hacks and downloaded an offline google map of the whole area with all our route, our accommodation starred, plus key sites we wanted to visit along the way.
Check out this link to view an NC500 Google map of the official route which you can save to your phone or tablet.
We also brought a physical map, but didn't really need to use it. If you prefer a hard copy on the road, you can pick up a detailed official North Coast 500 map in Inverness or at various points along the way, or download and print if off via this link.
And, although this should go without saying, leave the map reading and phone fiddling to your passenger - all drivers should be fully concentrated on the road ahead! If you're driving on your own, or with a passenger who isn't a great navigator, then we recommend purchasing a mobile phone holder so that you can safely navigate with your phone’s map / GPS in your rental car (this phone holder is perfect, and only £7 on Amazon).
MAKE YOUR OWN NORTH COAST 500 ITINERARY BEFORE YOU GO, BASED ON WHAT YOU LOVE
We have slightly different approaches when planning a road trip.
Andrew will spend hours researching and noting down things we can't miss and essential information, whilst Emily is a much more relaxed, fly-by-the-seat of-your-pants sort of girl. Although that inevitably causes a bit of bickering, this yin and yang approach is actually what makes us such good travel buddies.
For the NC500, we were both genuinely surprised at just how much there was to see, do and enjoy all along the route. And, the fact of the matter is that in five or ten days you simply will not be able to do and see everything, so instead concentrate on creating an itinerary which allows you to do most of what you want, whilst leaving aside some time for a wee bit of spontaneity.
For beaches, to ruined castles, to outdoor adventure and distilleries - find out where to find the things you love on the NC500 in our North Coast 500 highlights guide, which includes interactive maps.
Insider tip | Locals always have the best tips and we were grateful for their excellent suggestions on where to go and what to see along the North Coast 500 - they really did know so much about the area. So, be sure to ask the people at your B&B, hotel or hostel for their thoughts and tips rather than just sticking to what you've read on the internet or seen on an Instagram hashtag.
p.s. if you're on Instagram, we'd love if you'd follow us over at @alongdustyroads. You can also use our hashtag (#TheConstantlyCurious ) on your shots; we love to hear how people got on with their own Scottish roadtrip!
You will struggle to say anything right
Achmelvich. Ben Wyvis. Kinlochbervie. Aultbea. Torridon. Kishorn. Dounreay. Gairloch. Kinlochewe. Badachro. Kylesku. Bealach na Bà. Inchnadamph.
Yep, we still have no idea how to pronounce some of those properly - and Andrew's Scottish!
Emily's English tongue simply couldn't fathom half of the place names along the NC500 route (even Ullapool!), whilst Andrew mangled a lot of them, with emphasis on all the wrong syllables - we can only imagine how difficult it must be for some visitors from further afield.
So, don't be surprised if you are met with a blank faced look when you ask somebody for directions to Gairloch or if they know a good restaurant in Torridon - the likelihood is you're saying it all wrong.
The reason some of the names here in the Highlands may seem a little different is because most are anglicised from the Gaelic spelling and pronunciation - a language which has, thankfully, undergone a bit of a recent revival in Scotland. In fact, you will see many signs along the NC500 with the place names and welcome greeting in both English and Gaelic.
Insider tip | One Gaelic phrase that will be essential for your time in Scotland is 'Sláinte Mhath', meaning 'good health' - it's used to cheers/toast when you have a drink (preferably a whisky). This short video on Youtube will get you saying it right in no time! And, if you'd like to know the meaning of some of the common words in place names in the Highlands, check out this short guide.
You might not think you're in Scotland when the sun is shining but...
...that feeling may not last.
As shown in our Twelve Reasons to Drive the North Coast 500 post, the route is home to some stunning outdoor locations, including Caribbean blue waters by picture-postcard beaches (we’re not lying!). If you're lucky enough to have good weather when you visit, then you will leave with no doubt that this is one of Europe's best road trips.
But, be aware that that beautiful weather may not last. This is Scotland after all, where four seasons can be experienced in one afternoon and we've had snow in May. Therefore it's essential that you pack for (and mentally prepare yourself) to have some rain and 'dreich' weather whilst on the route. As mentioned, visiting in the summer season is the best way to increase your chances of sunshine, but it's not guaranteed at all. So, make sure to check the weather report for each day before you set off and always have a rain jacket in your daypack or in the car!
What To Pack For The North Coast 500
Since we're on the subject of the Scottish weather...
NC500 roadtrippers really do have to pack the right clothes for all occasions and seasons. It can be beautiful clear skies one day and then blowing a gale with rain and haar the next (this happened for us), so don't just think 'it's July, I'll only need summer clothes with me'.
Aside from your usual travel outfits, essentials to bring with you, even in Scottish summertime, are:
That lightweight, waterproof windbreaker
A hat
A thermal fleece or jumper for chillier evenings
An umbrella
A good pair of waterproof walking shoes
If travelling out of summer season, then bring more layers, a thicker jacket, and plenty extra socks so you never have to rely on a soggy pair from the previous day.
Even though you've got to prepare for the rain, don't forget to pack suncream too! The temperature hit 27 degrees when we were driving the NC500 and, with not a cloud in the sky, we were relieved that we had remembered to bring some along.
Find out what else we recommend to bring for your road trip in our 'North Coast 500 Packing Essentials' post. A kilt is wholly optional of course (but seriously lads, it's very very comfortable to drive in!)
Read Next | How We Fell in Love With The Scottish Highlands
Prepare for midges and ticks on the North Coast 500
The 'scourge of the Scottish summer' didn't actually affect us too much. Perhaps that's because midges are selective about who they annoy and bite (only the females bite) or maybe we were just lucky.
But, have no doubt, midges (which are sort of like teeny tiny angry Scottish mosquitoes) can be a major pain in the arse. They swarm around you in a cloud of nuisance at dawn or dusk and make you very uncomfortable - with a group capable of landing around 3,000 bites an hour. Dangerous? Not really. Annoying? Absolutely! That romantic drink on a cool summer night by the water can be ruined by them.
Ask anyone in Scotland about how to combat the midge and you'll be met with a few different recommendations, however Incognito and Smidge are two of the best repellents which are affordable, DEET-free, not tested on animals, and bloody work! Andrew's mum and many others actually swear by Avon Skin So Soft Body Spray in case you have some lying around at the back of the bathroom cupboard!
Do not leave home without at least one of the above!
The dreaded midges are at their worst from May to September, but there is also an excellent online free midge forecast map available for the region.
Ticks are however a more serious and growing concern in this part of the UK. They're those horrible things that you might find clung to your cat or dog and engorged with blood. They're disgusting and do present the serious risk of Lyme's disease, the prevalence of which has increased in the last ten years. For more information on ticks, and how to avoid them or minimise the risk, check out this post from Undiscovered Scotland or read advisory leaflets from the Highland Council.
Don't let these nasty little critters put you off travelling up here, but just be aware of them and be prepared!
Food Stops, Snacks and Restaurants On The North Coast 500
There are cute little cafes, homely restaurants, pubs, or fish & chip shops along the route for lunch stops each day, but there will also be periods where you might not have the time to stop at them, you feel peckish in the middle of nowhere or you simply want to have spontaneous picnic lunch at a stunning viewpoint or beach.
We do therefore recommend stocking up on some road trip snacks, hiking supplies, and some drinks at the supermarket before you leave Inverness. There are some shops and small supermarkets along the route, but you simply won't be able to get some products from them when you need them and prices are understandably a bit higher.
If you're staying at self-catering accommodation for a few nights and plan on cooking a lot, then it is sensible to bring some basics (i.e. oils, spices) or specialty ingredients from home or Inverness. If you have a cooler or chillbox, then stick that in the boot to keep things fresher for longer.
However, it's vitally important that all of us travelling the North Coast 500 make the effort to direct money into the local communities and business along the way, instead of just lining the pockets of Tesco and Morrisson's in Inverness. Not only is it an essential part of the whole experience, but it's also the best way ensure that this is a positive and sustainable tourism venture for the long-term for the people who live there. It's also the only way to sample some of the wonderful seafood of the region (including the most divine scallops).
So, don't buy absolutely everything you need at the supermarket in Inverness and put some money into local shops. And, although you may not be able to eat out every single night or for every single lunch due to time, preference or budget limitations, please do make a point of having some coffees and meals out during your visit!
For dinners out anywhere along the NC500, you really do need to plan ahead. If you're expecting to eat in a hotel or restaurant in the evening, then phoning ahead of time to book your table in high season is essential (especially on weekends). The most common eating time in this part of the world is 7-9 pm, with few tables available much later than that. Some restaurants' last-seating time is actually at 8 pm.
Due to that, it's necessary to plan that day's route and driving times accordingly so that you don't miss your dinner reservation because of underestimation of the Highland Mile! That's also the reason why it's always good idea on a road trip to have a few back-up 'kettle meals' in the car in case you want to stay out on the road longer or arrive to find everything shut for the evening (this happened to us).
If travelling outside of the summer season, note that some restaurants may be closed or operate on shorter opening times.
Lastly, it's always a very good idea to bring a thermos (we use this one on our travels) for spontaneous cups of tea or coffees with a view along the way!
Insider tip | Remember that the NC500 brings you to some remote and rural parts of Scotland - the two main towns of Wick and Thurso's only have a combined population of around 15,000 - so don't expect everything to be open until late. Shops and restaurants may close by 5 p.m. throughout the week and not open at all on Sunday.
Do not underestimate the 'Highland Mile'
When planning your NC500 route or once you're on the road, don't look at the map and think 'we've only got 80 miles to drive today, we'll have loads of time'.
The roads are slow and difficult to navigate and you'll inevitably get stuck behind a caravan or two. Once you factor in endless stops for unmissable photos, side-trips to museums, beaches and a wee hike, time for lunch, a little tea break by the roadside and spontaneous detours to places you see signposted off the route, it will be 7 p.m. before you know it and you'll only have driven 60 miles!
Of course, that's not the worst thing in the world, but as we've said above, we really did have to rush through some sections of the North Coast 500 in order to make it to a restaurant by closing time, ensure we could make it to a certain spot before it was too dark, or just make sure we could check-in for the night. This experience of being much more rushed than we had anticipated is why we believe most people will need much more than the recommended five days to fully appreciate everything the route has to offer at an enjoyable pace.
Insider Tip | Parking is largely free along the route, but its recently been mooted that this should change in order to raise revenues and reduce congestion at 'pinch points'. Use your common sense, and avoid parking on verges and in passing places.
Responsible Travel is More Important Than Ever
Now, there are many positives to the growth of the North Coast 500 in the last few years and its deserved status as one of the best road trips in the world. It's credited with boosting the Highlands economy to the tune of £22 million a year, drawing domestic and international tourists north of Inverness, and creating the equivalent of 180 full-time jobs in the north Highlands.
However, the increase in vehicles and people in this rural part of the world has created pressures on local infrastructure. Traffic queues on single track roads, irresponsible driving practices by visitors, and lack of respect for the environment are the principal issues, and heightened local resentment despite the economic benefits is understandable.
Therefore, in the age overtourism, it's more important than ever that each individual and group driving the North Coast 500 practices and promotes the basics of responsible travel. These include:
Respecting the rules of the road.
Supporting local businesses and shop locally when possible.
Cutting down on plastic waste. Use a refillable water bottle to stay hydrated with excellent free Scottish Highland tap water along the route - we both use this insulated water bottle on road trips as it keeps drinks cold for up to 24 hours and is great value.
Do not litter. Seriously, if you do, you really are just a dickhead.
Following signs and notices on trails, land, and beauty spots, and adhering to their instructions.
If you're a motorhome driver, only disposing of waste at appropriate facilities
Not prioritising your photography opportunities (or doin' it for the 'gram) over the experiences or safety of others. Or to the detriment of the destination.
Do not ‘dirty camp’.
Not allowing your dog to go off the lead and 'worry' local livestock.
Remembering that this is not a replacement venue for a festival.
And, if it's possible, try to linger a little longer along the route rather than simply treating villages, towns, or accommodation as pit-stops. There are obviously restrictions on how much you can feasibly do this, but staying more than just a night in an area and accommodation not only helps, but also enriches your own travel experience.
Read Later | North Coast 500 Highlights + Things To Do
April 2021 Update | Locals along the North Coast 500 route, after a catalogue of horrendous experiences throughout summer 2020 due to heightened domestic demand, are really concerned about the impact of visitors who do not respect the land, nature, and the people who live amongst it.
Please do your bit and be a good traveller, and keep this part of Scotland beautiful - take a moment to familiarise yourself with the updated Scottish Outdoor Access Code, which is distinct from the England & Wales Countryside Code.
Make Time For A Wee (Responsible) Dram
If you're the designated driver reading this then it's time to give yourself a wee treat.
Scotland’s finest export (after Andy Murray, Alex Ferguson, and Aberdeen's 1983 cup team) is whisky, and there are several fine whisky distilleries and specialist bars dotted along the route. There's also the Scottish Gin Distillery of the Year!
So, whilst you cannot treat yourself to a tipple during the day when you're driving, make sure you engineer your route plan to include a night at the pub or visit to them so you stock up on a bottle or two to bring home.
In this post, we've shared our favourite distilleries and breweries to visit on the NC500.
You'll probably drive a wee bit more than 500 miles...
We actually drove 739 miles (1189 kms) over the course of eight days. Doubling back to take a photo, several missed turnings or unscheduled detours, a handful of extra miles seeking the perfect beach, a few journeys between our hotel and local restaurants and a trip via Achtibulie to visit the idyllic Summer Isles on a kayak. They all added up.
However, if you have the time, throwing in a few more miles going OFF the official North Coast 500 route will never be a wasted endeavour. Despite covering many of the small and winding roads along the coast, there are many beautiful parts of the Highlands which will be skipped over by the majority. Yet, for those that seize upon the opportunity to explore and discover just where that signpost to the curiously named village, harbour or bay leads, you may just find your own Scottish hidden gem.
Driving the North Coast 500 also acts as the perfect gateway to visit the isles of Skye, Orkney or Lewis (the latter two are just a ferry ride away) - so it could just be the start of a long-lasting love affair with this part of the world.
Insider tip | There are many more petrol stations than we anticipated along the NC500, but don't underestimate how many miles you may have to drive before you are able to fill up. We took the approach that as soon as we went below a half tank in Jock the Jeep, we would fill up at the next station - this served us pretty well.
If you're renting a car to drive the North Coast 500, this website gives a comprehensive overview of all the car rental options, prices and availability throughout Scotland; we use it to book all our car rentals for road trips all over the world.
May 2021 Update | Is The North Coast 500 Open?
"The breathtaking natural scenery, wide open green spaces, majestic mountain ranges, sandy beaches and rugged coastline of the NC500 are key factors that will draw visitors back to the region and away from larger towns and cities after lockdown." Tom Campbell, NC500 Ltd
Individuals, communities, and tourism on the North Coast 500 has understandably been affected by the global pandemic over the last year. Lockdowns, travel restrictions, and quarantine rules implemented by the Scottish and UK governments effectively (and rightly) closed the route down.
However, the situation has improved and a number of recent key changes have been made which directly affect the North Coast 500 in 2021 - and your ability to experience it this summer.
Firstly, the good news. Since April 2021, the North Coast 500 is gradually opening up again for Scottish visitors, and actually brought forward some actions. Here are key dates regarding 2021 tourism in Scotland, according to the Scottish Government’s timetable:
From 2nd April, the ‘Stay at Home’ requirement was replaced with a ‘Stay Local’ message.
From 26th April, travel within all of mainland Scotland and overnight stays permitted (subject to other restrictions that remain in place on indoor gatherings etc). Accommodation, attractions, and shops reopened too, with pubs, cafes, and restaurants required to serve outdoors.
From 26th April, non-essential travel to Scotland permitted from England, Wales, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands, and the Isle of Man.
From 17th May, further re-opening of hospitality, including indoors services and seating for bars, pubs, restaurants and cafes.
From 7th June, the hoped for date for all of Scotland to move to ‘level one’ and something a lot closer to ‘normal’ (though various resections will remain in place).
There remain various restrictions on travel and quarantine requirements across the UK, and the above timeline is subject to change (see here for Scottish Government updates on travel). At present, you cannot visit Scotland from abroad.
So, it is now possible to visit the North Coast 500 for UK-based tourists, but a number of restrictions and rules remain in place on gatherings, physical distancing, masks etc. However, it’s likely that the summer season may just be salvaged! Given its position as Britain's best road trip and the likelihood for a staycation boom in the UK this year, it's likely many of you reading this will now be considering the route for your own summer holiday.
If that’s the case, we strongly advise looking + booking now - see our accommodation post for recommendations.
Now, with the opening up for summer 2021, it's really important that you are aware of the specific guidance in place in Scotland with regards to preventing the spread of infection within the local communities here and between visitors. This includes social distancing, compulsory wearing of face coverings on public transport and in shops, and good hand washing procedures. These rules are different to other parts of the UK, and from European countries, so it's really essential that you take the time to read the specific guidance from the Scottish Government for visitors here.
It's essential to plan and prepare accordingly for all of the above, and respect the measures put in place to keep you and others safe.
As ever, be a responsible and respectful traveller.
Now for the not so good news. Many businesses along the North Coast 500 have been hit very hard by the cancellations of the last year and ongoing uncertainty. A decent number did not open in summer 2020, with a survey pointing to just 67% of businesses polled saying they anticipated opening their doors. This will obviously affect the availability of certain facilities and your ability to visit certain attractions or establishments this summer (and beyond).
But it also makes it all the more important than ever to support those business who are open this summer and keep the NC500 alive!
In line with the government regulations, businesses along the route will continue to adopt and adapt to various health and safety measures. This will affect dining capacity in cafes, pubs, and restaurants, and check-in and check-out process for accommodation due to enhanced cleaning.
Due to this, it's more essential than ever to book and plan ahead, including for distillery visits and other activities. Similarly, please keep abreast of developments and announcements from the Scottish and UK governments before your trip in case the situation changes.
Despite all these measures, it's so important to remember that the North Coast 500 road trip will remain as beautiful as before. The mountains will remain as beautiful as before. The North Sea will remain as beautiful as before.
This splendid drive through the Scottish Highlands will remain as special as before.
Ready to start planning? Then check out our NC500 route itinerary, our North Coast 500 Acccommodation guide, or read How We Fell in Love With The Scottish Highlands.
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