Update November 2021 | Providencia was devastated by a Category 5 hurricane in November 2020, with many residents’ homes and businesses destroyed alongside infrastructure.
Much has not been rebuilt yet, and tourism remains uncertain.
If planning your trip, please seek out recent Colombian government advice to confirm the travel situation.
We were not supposed to visit Providencia.
During our last Colombia trip, it was San Andres - the better known bigger brother in the San Andres archipelago's triumvirate of islands - which was meant to be our little paradise splurge during a backpacking route that involved much more hiking and urban exploration than beach time.
However, as you probably already know by now dear traveller, once you start to look seriously into San Andres, you will eventually start to learn about Providencia.
And why it is magical.
And once you begin to learn of Providencia, you begin to yearn to visit it too.
This island, a speck on the map and a mere footnote in the geography of the Caribbean, is striving to avoid the mass development common to so many of the other islands in this aquamarine sea where you discover that blue comes in countless shades and hues. There are no large hotels here, and only those 5,000 or so who live on the island are able to purchase property. Throw in the fact that you have to take an additional flight from San Andres - or a three hour boat ride, replete with complimentary anti-sickness medicine (it's not nearly as bad as people make out, we promise) - and Providencia will hopefully remain an idyllic hideaway for some time.
Divers will love it here. Responsible travellers seeking out some version of paradise lost (or hidden) will love it here. Anyone who craves something away from the crowds in the sweltering heat of old Cartagena will love it here.
Even though our spontaneous three night visit in a raw and unfiltered Providencia was far too fleeting and out of our planned budget, we genuinely loved it here.
There's a reason why anyone you meet in the hostel dorm or on the road will implore you to change your best laid plans and go out of your way to visit this palm-tree lined tropical fever dream of an island for as long as you've got, or as long as you can afford. After all, though finding 'paradise' is beyond cliché, the truth is that Providencia really does come close.
Here are our favourite things to do in Providencia - sometimes known as Old Providence - plus tips on where to stay, some important things to know before you visit, and advice on how to get to the island from San Andres and mainland Colombia.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN PROVIDENCIA
Hang Out on The Best Beaches in Providencia
The best beaches we've visited in Colombia are found in Providencia.
Take that Tayrona. Fight us Palomino. Sorry Capurgana.
We still dream of them actually, and how impossibly perfect they felt at the time. With the whole island only 7 km long and 4 km wide, taking under 45 minutes to drive around in a rented scooter, we managed to visit all of them multiple times during our stay.
All of the beaches in Providencia are pretty great to be honest, and you'll have a lovely time at any of them, but there are a few little differences which are worth knowing about.
Tip | We noticed that the tide really affected the beaches in Providencia, particularly Southwest, with the beach nearly disappearing entirely when the water was high and in. Therefore it's worth checking the tide times online before you head out so that you can have an idea of whether you should get to the beach early or avoid it in the afternoon.
Southwest Bay (Bahia Sur Oeste)
Once a reader found out we were heading to Providencia, she messaged us straight away to say we couldn't miss sunset at Southwest Bay. And so, once we were off the ferry and had sorted out our rental scooter, we made a beeline to this long stretch of beach on the (no surprises here) south west of the island.
We ate a majestic fresh seafood lunch at El Divino Niño, sunbathed and swam a little, watched teenagers train their galloping stallions on the sand, and then settled in at La Sirenita, a laid back cocktail shack run by local young guys, to watch a hypnotic sunset as the early sparks of the nightly bonfire started to crackle.
It was the perfect start to our time in Providencia. An extended moment of real happiness.
We returned to Southwest a couple more times during the day in our stay, and the beach was always pleasantly uncrowded (although still busier than the other beaches on the island) and chilled out.
On the dusty approach road to the beach, there are a few posadas and small restaurants, and it's easy to find a place to park up.
Almond Bay (Bahia Almendra)
When we first stopped off at this beach in the morning, we were a little underwhelmed. However, we gave it a second chance the next afternoon, and absolutely loved it.
It's the smallest beach we visited on Providencia, but it had wonderful clear and calm water to swim in, plenty of space to lay down a towel away from others, and a guy serving strong Cocoloco cocktails from his shack (disappointingly in a plastic party coconut glass though!). It felt much more like a private bay beach in comparison to Southwest.
We could even go as far to call it a little romantic.
To access Almond Bay, you need to park up by the sign and the Octopus Statue (Google Maps), and then walk down the concrete path for five minutes. As it's only accessible on foot and is a little secluded, this helps keeps crowds down.
Freshwater Bay (Bahia Aguadulce)
A picture-postcard beach, Freshwater was peaceful and pristine when we spent our second morning in Providencia there. Aside from a few boatfuls of diver groups heading out, the only other people on the beach were ourselves, two other couples, and a handful of local old boys chatting and playing dominoes under the trees.
This was Andrew's best beach in Providencia.
This serenity surprised us a little, given that its location is just in front of the "largest" cluster of buildings and businesses we saw in Providencia outside the old town centre. There's a small supermarket, some restaurants, plus some hotels and cabañas, making it an ideal base for someone who doesn't want to rent a scooter, walk, or take a moto-taxi each day to visit the beach. We’ve shared our pick of the accommodation in Freshwater later in this post!
Note that it’s possible to walk between Freshwater and Southwest via the main road.
Machineel Bay (Playa Manzanillo)
Accessed down a dusty side road on the southern tip of the island, Manchineel Bay was probably Emily’s very favourite beach on in all of Providencia, and the perfect place to while away a few hours, or even days. A little wilder in parts (at least according to Andrew), it’s home to the infamous ‘Roland’s Bar’, a long stretch of white sand, palm trees, and, well, the odd bit of seaweed.
You can read more about Manchineel Bay and Roland's later in this post!
There were also a few smaller bits of beaches dotted around Providencia, but none really worth going out of your way for in place of the above. However, we did fall hard for this little swimming bay we stumbled across between Southwest and Freshwater - you can find it here on Google Maps.
Go Scuba Diving
Our host told us, a local on the boat told us, and we read it in several posts when researching our trip. However, in writing this article, we couldn't find any external confirmation that the reef around Providencia is part of the third largest coral reef in the world.
Nevertheless, what is absolutely beyond doubt is that Providencia is a haven for divers in South America. If you're a diver and you're currently wondering whether to visit San Andres or Providencia - pick Providencia.
By all accounts, it is a wonderful and very affordable place to achieve your PADI certification, and a few travellers we spoke to were on the island specifically to learn. You can try scuba for the first time with a ‘Discover Scuba Diving’ session for 200,000 COP (£46 / $59), or take the entry-level PADI Open Water course for around 1,000,000 COP (£230 / $299).
As neither of us dive, we can’t give out any personal recommendations, so we turned to our buddies Dani and Daniele who spent several weeks diving in Providencia (and run the best hostel in Rincon del Mar!). They highly recommended Sirius Dive Shop, located on Southwest Bay. It takes safety very seriously and the owner is the "only guy who can operate the hyperbaric chamber in the OPI".
A follower on Instagram also recommended Dive School Providencia, which is run by a local chap called Halbert and his Swiss partner, Sandra.
Hike to El Pico
Providencia is surprisingly verdant and lush, a fact that is best appreciated on a morning hike to El Pico, the highest point on the island.
A 3-hour roundtrip trail, 'The Peak' delivers unrivalled panoramic views over the startling blues of the Caribbean and a different perspective on paradise.
The trail itself is easy to find and follow, just go to Bottom House - yes, feel free to snigger - in the south of the island, where you'll see the El Pico start point sign (Google Maps) and be able to park up. If in doubt, ask a local, or make your way to this Lizard monument (Google Maps) which is a good reference point.
We had to register at the entrance, but the trail was free. A guide wasn't mandatory when we hiked, but please let us know if this ever changes!
We highly recommend that you start the El Pico hike in the morning, and therefore avoid walking in the midday heat, wear trainers rather than flip-flops or sandals, take enough water, and slap on the suncream! If you're unfit or physically challenged, factor in an extra hour overall due to the relatively steep climb.
And keep an eye out for the blue lizards!
A Day or Night at Roland's Famous Bar
Cocolocos and reggae amongst the palm trees are the order of the day at this quintessentially Caribbean beach bar located at the end of a potholed dusty roads on Manchineel Bay.
We pulled up in the late afternoon for a cocktail and some of the excellent handmade vegetarian empanadas, and left a few hours later with the nightly beach bonfire burning. Throughout, Roland himself, resplendent in fluorescent, lazed in his hammock behind the bar giving out intermittent welcomes to newcomers and orders to staff over his microphone.
Roland Roots Reggae Bar & Restaurant is an institution on the island, and one you should pop into at least once. It's also a good shout for a nighttime spot in Providencia, and there is sometimes live music and beach parties on the weekends.
The beach itself is more rustic and driftwood-strewn than the others we visited on Providencia - the sea is a little rougher than elsewhere too - but felt quite secluded despite the popularity of Roland’s and the other two food places further along the same stretch.
You can find the reggae bar by looking out for the red, white, and green hand-painted wooden sign pointing to the dusty road, or simply taking the turning onto the Manchineel road from the main road as you pass through Bottom House. Roland's is also listed on Google Maps here.
Note that several of the boat tours around the island stopped off here for a quick photoshoot on the palm tree swing and a drink, so check if that's included in yours too.
Tip | If you’re visiting San Andres and Providencia, then you need to know that a cocoloco (crazy coconut) is the ubiquitous cocktail on these Caribbean islands and usually involves a fresh coconut filled with lots of rum and a lime or two.
Explore Santa Catalina Island
The third and tiniest island of the San Andres archipelago's triumvirate, Santa Catalina often gets forgotten about.
However, with its little coves, dense forest, and colourful homes, we found it charming a stop for a couple of hours exploration.
Santa Catalina is only accessible on foot, so you'll need to park up your motorbike before heading over the warped yellow and green Puente De Los Enamorados (Lover's Bridge) - the bridge can be found here.
Once you’ve crossed, turn left and go along the pretty little walkway and small port, you'll then come across the Big Mama Sweet Taste cafe and a sign for Don Olivo (we visited Santa Catalina after lunch, but this looked a really nice option for food in Providencia by the way, so let us know if it's worth a visit!)
You can then follow the signs upward to Fort Warwick for a nice viewpoint, before descending down to the secluded Fort Bay cove. There were a few families here when we visited, so we didn't linger too long. You then have the option to continue walking for another 20 minutes to Morgan's Head - a lovely little snorkelling point where you can also do rock jumps into the sea if you're brave enough (we weren't). To access the water from Morgan's Head without jumping, it may not be immediately clear but there is a small trail just before the Head that takes you down to the water.
Alternatively, you can rent a kayak in Santa Catalina, paddle around the island and do some snorkelling around Morgan's Head.
Visit Crab Cay / Cayo Congrejo
It's one of the most popular things to do in Providencia...but we're afraid we just didn't do it.
As we only had three nights on the island itself and wanted to experience it without rushing and with lots of relaxing at the beach, something else simply had to give.
And that was Cayo Congrejo (Crab Cay).
You may be incredulous at that BUT remember that we had already made the decision to go to this Caribbean island after only planning on going to the neighbouring Caribbean island, and we thought it was a bit ridiculous to then have to pay to go to another Caribbean island as soon as we arrived!
This teeny-tiny islet is only a short boat ride (around 5 minutes) away from the eastern coast of Providencia, and is reputedly the best spot for snorkelling. It also forms a small part of McBean Lagoon, a protected marine area of impossibly perfect waters as well as an important ecosystem for coral, mangroves, and much sealife (including turtles).
From the top of Crab Cay, the 360-degree view is meant to be pretty cool too.
In order to get to Cayo Congrejo, head to the very expensive Deep Blue Hotel where you’ll find a local guy and a boat. Expect to pay 35,000 - 40,000 COP return per person, with the 18,000 COP entry fee to Crab Cay charged in addition. We've read that it gets most crowded here from around 11 a.m. onward, so head out earlier for a better experience.
Tip | A boat trip around the island is popular way to visit several of the beaches and spend an hour snorkelling around Crab Cay and McBean Lagoon, plus enjoy a few drinks along the way. Boat trips last from 3-6 hours and can easily be arranged via your guesthouse. We didn't do this so can't share prices or tips unfortunately - let us know in the comments if you do! It's also possible to hire kayaks in Maracaibo and head out on your own to kayak the lagoon.
How Long Should You Stay in Providencia?
Slow travel is what we like to do, and travelling slowly is exactly what Providencia was made for.
As we mentioned though, our decision to visit Providencia was a little last minute and we were only able to squeeze in three days before heading back to the mainland for the Lost City Trek.
We'll always regret not being able to go a little slower in Providencia.
So, if you know you're going to make it from the mainland to this version of paradise, just make sure you stay a little longer than you're thinking right now - you'll never ever regret it.
If you're not a diver or have no ambitions to learn to dive, then you can get away with fewer nights overall. However, just be aware that there are not many places like Providencia in South America, so don't rush off if you have time to spare and your budget allows it.
We'd say you need an absolute minimum of three nights, but a week would be ideal.
Where To Stay in Providencia
As we mentioned, the local community have read the runes and done a lot of work to prevent Providencia falling victim to the same level of tourist development and infrastructure as San Andres and many other Caribbean islands.
This is a good thing; to preserve paradise, you've got to stop it being paved over in the first place.
This concerted approach to keep tourism sustainable and with a light footprint means the island only has capacity for around 400 or so tourists at one time, and that accommodation options - with a few exceptions - are posadas (guesthouses), cabañas, or Airbnb rentals owned and operated by locals. Properties are simple and functional, rather than aiming to be on the front of Conde Nast Traveller, but serve their purpose well.
There are no hostels in the traditional sense - making things a little more expensive for solo travellers - and only a handful of small hotels. Due to the limited availability and the layout of the island, it’s a really good idea to book in advance.
In terms of budget, our view is that accommodation in Providencia is both more and less than you think it should be - it's cheap for how amazing the destination is and given that you're on a wonderful small island in the Caribbean, but understandably more than on the Colombian mainland. Typical prices are in the range of £30-£50 ($38-$64) per night for a couple, but cheaper deals can still be found (e.g. we stayed at this large private room for 110,000 COP per night).
Solo travellers can find a single room in a posada for £15-18 ($19-25).
In terms of which area to stay in Providencia, we think it really depends on if you want to be right on the beach's doorstep or not. If so, then you'll find most options around Freshwater and Southwest Bay - they've both got a few places to eat etc, so you won't have to go too far if you want a lazy day, and you can also walk between the beaches in 10-15 minutes. If facilities on your doorstep are a priority, then go for Freshwater or something in Pueblo Viejo. The eastern side of the island - Rocky Cay - is usually cheaper as it is a 10-20 minute drive to a beach.
However, if you're renting a scooter for the duration of your stay, location is a bit less important as you will only ever be 15-20 minute drive to pretty much anywhere else!
We’ve done the hard graft for you, and shared our personal picks of the best value accommodation for travellers in Providencia, plus a couple of options if you want to stretch the budget or have a hotel / cabaña experience:
Posada Juan Carlos | This is one of the cheapest guesthouse options if you want to stay in Freshwater Bay. Each room has air-con, a private bathroom, and access to a kitchen, and you’re just down the road from the supermarket too (which has free wifi). Prices start at £32/$41 a night for a double room. Check availability here.
Posada Miss Portia | Only 200 yards from Southwest Bay and its excellent beach, Miss Portia’s highly-rated guesthouse offers clean and comfortable rooms with air-con. There’s also kitchen access for guests. Prices start at £42/$54 a night for a double room with private bathroom, making it the best value option by Southwest we could find. Check availability here.
Posada Ashanty | With two bedrooms, this Airbnb is perfect for a family or group, but a couple can also grab this basic but functional apartment on Rocky Cay for just £30/$38 a night! It’s part of the same building as the family who run it, and previous guests are full of praise for how the hosts treated and helped them throughout their stay. Check availability or book on Airbnb here.
Posada LKJay | Run by Lindon, this spacious modern private apartment has rave guest reviews for the his hospitality and efforts to make sure you have a great time in Providencia. It’s much closer to a ‘hotel’ apartment experience than the more rustic and romantic options - but this may be a good thing if you want to have a bit more convenience and comfort. It’s also got access to an outdoor pool for guests! Check prices and availability here.
Posada Manchineelroad Lodge | This is a cheap and cheerful option a 10-minute walk to Manzanilla Beach and Roland’s Bar. Check availability here.
High Hill Eco Apartment | It may be on the upper end of your budget at £50/$64 per night, but this nicely decorated studio cabin on the hill is within walking distance of three of the island’s best beaches. Two doggies also stay on the owner’s property nearby (which for us would be a very very good thing!), and it’s totally understandable why it’s one of the most popular Airbnbs in Providencia. Check availability here.
A slightly cheaper Airbnb option which also delivers on its location by Freshwater Bay, but isn’t as dreamy as High Hill, is Cabaña Ismasoris.
Cabañas Agua Dulce | If you want something closer to a hotel experience instead of a guesthouse, but don’t want break the bank, then this is a great option. Located in Freshwater Bay, Agua Dulce offers double rooms in a private cabaña on their property for £58/$98 per night. You’ll also have access to facilities like the outdoor pool, hammocks, and the sunset bar, whilst the supermarket, scooter rentals, restaurants, and moto-taxis are nearby. Check availability here.
Pueblo Viejo | If were to return to Providencia, we wouldn’t stay in Pueblo Viejo (the closest thing to a town on the island, but much more like a village), but alongside Rocky Cay it does present most of the most budget friendly guesthouses. Posada Jasmina Place and Posada Lia are both very highly rated by previous guests, and available from £30/$38 a night.
If budget is a concern, then you should also check out Posada McBean, the guesthouse we stayed at in Providencia. Owned and run by Alonso, a friendly grandfatherly type who has his rules and is a little set in his ways, it would definitely suit and older couple rather a young one. However, it’s a really excellent value option on Rocky Cay and he was a lovely guy! Renting a motorbike is essential if you stay here.
Deep Blue | This is the fanciest hotel option by far on the island, and has a price to match - check availability here.
Bully’s Place | Located on the smaller, quieter Santa Catalina, this blue, white and yellow house is a steal at only £26/$33 a night for couples, but it’s important to note that any visits to beaches on Providencia would require a short walk across the bridge first and then a short drive your scooter or with moto-taxi out. On the flip side, it means you’re in a quiet spot and only a short walk to the shops and facilities of the old town across the water. Check availability here.
You can see more Airbnb options in Providencia here , whilst all the booking.com listings on Providencia are available here. If you’ve never used Airbnb before, then just sign up for free via this link and you’ll receive £25 off your first booking.
If you stay at a fantastic guesthouse in Providencia, and feel that it deserves to be featured here, then let us know in the comments!
Essential Travel Tips for Providencia
| The only way to reach Providencia is via the neighbouring island of San Andres. We have detailed full information on the ferry and flight prices and timetables in this post - How To Get To Providencia from San Andres.
| If you’re travelling from the Colombian mainland, you still have to go via San Andres!
| There is a non-Colombian tourist tax for any visitor to San Andres and Providencia. This is currently 112,500 COP (£26 / $34) per person, and you have to pay it in the airport before you fly to San Andres. You will receive a tourist card once you’ve paid, and you need to keep this safe as you’ll be asked to show it when you arrive in Providencia and when you eventually leave San Andres. Find out more about buying the tourist card in this post.
| Due to the luggage and weight restrictions on both transport options, it’s a good idea to only travel to Providencia with a smaller backpack containing everything you’ll need for your time on the island. Guesthouses on San Andres, and hostels on the mainland, will allow you to securely store your big backpack if you’re leaving it behind. Bring enough sunscreen (coral safe please) and non-toxic bug spray too (we use and recommend Incognito).
| We have discussed more in this post about why this small island, closer to Nicaragua, is actually Colombian and its principal language is English rather than Spanish.
| As is hopefully clear by now, it does cost a little bit extra to make it out to Providencia. A trip here will always be worth it, but please just factor these extra costs into your travel budget before you book your transport and accommodation for the island. We paid 28,000 - 35,000 COP for meals, cocktails cost 12,000 - 20,000 COP, and a beer was 5,000 COP..
| A taxi from the ferry terminal or from El Embrujo Airport airport in Providencia is fixed at 20,000 - 25,000 COP (£4.6-5.8 / $6-$7.5), which is very expensive for the distance you’ll cover. There’s no organised service, but drivers will be waiting the ferry / plane arrival, so you shouldn’t have any issues finding one - some posada / Airbnb hosts will however collect guests.
| Flights and ferries to / from Providencia can be cancelled in the event of poor weather and rough seas. It’s worth nothing that most accommodation providers may not offer any full or partial refund due to weather related cancellations. In this event, your travel insurance should be able to support (depending on policy conditions and whether the price of the excess covers the price of the reservation). If you’re confused about travel insurance, read this post.
| Fresh fruit and veg in Providencia are, understandably, limited and expensive. They are only shipped in a few times per week and sell out quite quickly. If you’re cooking in your guesthouse or Airbnb, then your best option for groceries are the two small supermarkets in the old town or Supermercado Morgan in Freshwater (Google Maps).
| As we’ve mentioned a couple of times, renting a scooter is the best way to explore the islands and get around. This is most easily arranged via your accommodation host, and ours had a bike and helmets at our doorstop within 30 minutes of our arrival! We paid 70,000 COP (£16 / $20) per day of the rental, which was the going rate on the island, and then returned it directly to the company in the old town before catching our ferry home. It was also necessary to leave a deposit of 100,000 COP. The roads in Providencia are easy to drive and traffic is light.
As ever, make sure you have suitable and appropriate travel insurance, are confident driving a scooter before renting, and respect local rules.
An alternative mode of transport is the big, slow golf carts - but we don’t recommend renting these. There are a few places to rent bicycles too, but these would be a little impractical if you’re only on the island for a few days.
| If you don’t drive, then the next best option to get around Providencia by road is taking a moto-taxi. Again, your guesthouse host will be able to call and arrange this for you - expect to pay 5,000-10,000 COP for a ride anywhere.
| Wifi and internet is generally limited and quite poor across Providencia. This isn’t bad thing in paradise, but the reality is that all travellers now use wifi for lots of things these days. If a guesthouse has wifi, then manage your expectations accordingly. The supermarket in Freshwater also has free wifi.
| There are a handful of ATMs on Providencia but it makes best sense to arrive with plenty cash from the mainland or San Andres. Most guesthouses don’t have card payment facilities, which is a good reason to pay in advance online or on Airbnb. If you’re going to take on a diving course, we’d recommend getting in touch in advance to confirm if you can pay via card.
| Water is scarce and at a premium on the island, so do use it responsibly by taking showers limited in time and frequency. The tap water is also NOT safe to drink on Providencia, which means that we’d highly recommend travelling with a water bottle with in-built filter. As this is an island, single-use plastic is a nightmare to dispose of appropriately, and you’ll be doing the island and the environment in general, a great deal of good by trying to keep the number of plastic bottles you use down to an absolute minimum.
| As you’ll imbibe a fair few cocktails here, it’s also important as a responsible traveller to either use a reusable straw or ask for cocktails without a straw. To find out more about how to use less plastic when you travel, read this post.
| Some of the finest racehorses in South America are supposedly born and bred on Providencia, and it’s quite a lucrative trade. On Saturdays, there will sometimes be hotly-contested local horse races on Southwest beach and we’d recommend going out of your way to see this. There was no race during our visit, but we were fortunate to see a few young guys training their steeds on the beach and it was a sight (and sound) to behold.
