For us, there are two certainties when it comes to travelling in Sicily for the first time:
Everyone will love it.
Renting a car is essential to having the best experience possible.
We spent a month last summer road tripping around Sicily - from the east coast to the west, the north coast to the south - and it was close to perfection.
Based on our own experiences in that month, we've personally curated this Sicily road trip itinerary to inspire and help travellers like you to plan your own driving route on this beautiful Italian island.
· · ·
Five Important Things To Know Before Planning Your Sicily Road Trip
For your own Sicily road trip, it's really important to know a few things right at the beginning.
How long does it take to drive around Sicily? It is not possible to circumnavigate the entirety of the island in 10 days or 14 days. Even with privilege of a whole month, we had to sacrifice visiting a few places and move on a little earlier than we'd have liked from others.
That's why all realistic and meaningful Sicily road trip itineraries will focus on either the western section of the island or the eastern section; trying to do both in two weeks or less is simply not going to be sensible or remotely enjoyable. It is however very possible to have a reasonably paced road trip on one side of the island in that amount of time! If you want to cover both sides at a reasonable pace, you need at least three weeks.
The good news is that this isn't something to be concerned or upset about - both eastern and western Sicily are fantastic destinations in their own right, and offer ample experiences to enjoy a quintessentially Sicilian summer break. We've explained the differences between them in the next section!
Is it safe to drive in Sicily? Sicilian drivers have quite a reputation, and this can make many people hesitant about renting a car and driving. As experienced road trippers, we can confirm that the reputation isn't ill-deserved, but that driving in Sicily is also not quite as daunting or terrifying as most people think. If you're concerned or stressed about driving in Sicily, or just want to prepare for its quirks, then we highly recommend you also read this post later on.
For our recommended Sicily road trip route, you actually do not need a car for the first 2-3 days. This is because you really don't have to drive to enjoy and explore Palermo or Catania (the largest cities in Sicily and where you’re most likely to fly into), and having one will only add unnecessary stress, inconvenience, and costs.
How To Chose Between Eastern Sicily + Western Sicily
The main factors are what sort of Sicily experience you’d like, and which airport you're flying into.
For western Sicily road trips, you need to start off in either the capital city Palermo on the north coast or Trapani on the north-west coast; the former is the more popular option and will have various cheap flights from the UK and Europe.
For eastern Sicily road trips, you need to start off in Catania, the island’s second largest city and home of its busiest airport. It is also possible to fly into Palermo airport and head east*, via Cefalu, but we actually don't recommend that route.
If you've already booked your flights into one or the other airport in Sicily, then don't be concerned or worried - you will have a bloody brilliant road trip whichever side you arrive in!
For those that haven’t yet committed to a flight, there are some key differences between west and east Sicily that you should consider first:
Western Sicily has the best beaches.
Eastern Sicily has the prettier towns (particularly in the south east corners, such as Noto).
The Valley of the Temples is best visited on a western Sicily itinerary, but can be visited on a two-week eastern Sicily itinerary.
Mount Etna can only be visited on an eastern Sicily itinerary.
Eastern Sicily is much busier and more touristy than western Sicily.
The best street food experiences are in Palermo.
We were fortunate enough to spend a good amount of time on both sides of the island, as well as the off-beaten-track interior. Although the east was very very enjoyable - particularly scaling Mount Etna and exploring its beautiful Baroque towns - we felt closer to the soul of Sicily after heading west from Palermo. If you keep on reading, you'll understand why…
So, based on all of the above, we both sincerely recommend a western Sicily road trip for first-timers on the island.
(update 2021: we returned to Sicily last summer and explored more of the east of the island, which also allowed us to curate this standalone east Sicily itinerary for road trippers and independent travellers using public transport).
We have designed this itinerary based on our experiences and what we would do if we were going back to the island tomorrow. Specifically, we curated it to make sure you can make the most of the places we loved the most, but also go at the slower, immersive pace at which we like to travel (after all, there really is no fun to be had in just moving on each day and being in the car more often than anywhere else on your holiday!).
The route will also bring you to so many of our favourite things to do in Sicily: street food in Palermo's unique markets; a day trip to cycle around a paradise dream island; exploration of its famous UNESCO temples at sunrise or sunset; the opportunity to discover the countryside town that inspired the Godfather; a remote coastal trail to beautiful secret beaches; stepping back in time at a magical medieval hilltop castle; and ample time for spontaneous fun, sun, rest, dolce vita, and serendipity.
We have structured it as a manageable and realistic 14-day route, but if you only have a week to 10 days, consider creating a shorter itinerary up to and including Trapani.
For those of you flying into Catania, we've shared recently published our eastern Sicily road trip route. If you know you're heading to the east on a road trip, then definitely check out 15 Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily, plus our guides to Mount Etna, Noto, Taormina, and the beautiful beachtown of Cefalu, as they will all likely feature on your own itinerary.
**If flying into Palermo and choosing to head east, we think you should do it this way after a few carless nights in Palermo: Cefalu > the Eolie islands > Taormina > Mount Etna > Catania > Syracuse > Noto > Modica and the Val di Noto.
· · ·
OUR SICILY ROAD TRIP ITINERARY | DAY BY DAY
Day One | Fly into Palermo
Right, let the fun commence!
Depending on what time your flight arrives, you should simply spend today checking-in, settling in to your accommodation and getting acquainted with the city. Oh, and hot footing it to a pretty plaza for a 6 pm Aperol spritz and later, a big ole bowl of delicious Sicilian pasta. You are on holiday after all!
DRIVE
You don’t need a rental car for your fist few days in Palermo; it’s not necessary to enjoy the best the city has to offer, and will only cause extra stress if you have to drive into and around the city on your first day, plus working out the parking situation for your accommodation.
Instead, just take the regular and comfortable shuttle bus for 45 minutes from the airport into the centre of Palermo. Tickets cost €6.30 for a single or €11.00 for a return - find timetables and route overview for the airport shuttle bus here.
Although it may seem silly to start a road trip without picking up your rental car from the airport, just trust us on this one.
STAY
With our itinerary, you’ll spend three nights in Palermo. We stayed at a cheap Airbnb as it was well set up for us to do some work on our website; there are however much nicer accommodation options in the city.
We’ve shared our advice on which neighbourhood to pick, plus our pick of the best hotels and Airbnbs for every travel style, in this post: Where To Stay in Palermo (published soon!)
PLAN
Get planning for your time in Palermo with our guide on all the best things to do.
Day Two | Explore Palermo
A full day of getting to know the beauty and chaos of Palermo with all your senses.
Spend the morning in markets which are unlike any others we’ve visited in Europe, devour as much of Palermo’s famous street food as possible, visit the Royal Palace, get creeped out in the catacombs, get lost in the pretty streets and hangout in the Kalsa neighbourhood.
DRIVE
No driving today, so we’d recommend taking advantage of the fact, and enjoying as many Aperol Spritz or Negroni as you like! Palermo is very walkable, just avoid having to do any serious walking during the peak afternoon sun.
STAY
Another night at your accommodation in Palermo.
PLAN
Find all our top recommendations for Palermo in our guide, 11 Wonderful Things To Do in Palermo.
Day Three | Explore In or Around Palermo
Exactly what you do on Day Three depends on your travel style, budget, and personal preferences.
There's plenty to entertain you within the city (like doing a cooking class), but it would be perfectly understandable if you also wanted to take the opportunity to take one of several popular day trips from Palermo.
We wouldn’t bother with the popular Mondello Beach as you'll be visiting plenty of more pleasant, quieter beaches in the following days. However, you could choose to visit Monreale and its famous cathedral or take the opportunity to make your way inland on a Godfather-inspired tour.
DRIVE
Whilst there are a couple of day trips from Palermo that do require your own transport, it’s perfectly possible to reach the most popular with either a tour or public transport, quickly and easily.
STAY
Another night at your accommodation in Palermo.
PLAN
Find out more about the best day trips from Palermo in our guide.
Day Four | Collect Your Rental Car + Drive To Castellammare del Golfo
To collect your rental car, you need to make your way back to the airport with the shuttle bus. Head to the arrivals hall where you’ll find all the car rental firms in one place, each with their own queue. Do note that if a flight has recently arrived, you may have to wait a while.
You should have your rental car for Sicily booked as far in advance as possible in order to get more options and the cheapest overall deals - we look and book our rental cars in Europe on the AutoEurope website (where we got our car for £10 a day).
Your destination today is Castellammare del Golfo, a pretty little seaside town ideally positioned as a base for a few days to discover this area of northern Sicily. Once you’ve settled into your accommodation, spend your first afternoon getting to know the town itself, lounging on its expansive stretch of beach, or take the car out to the well-preserved Temple of Segesta (30 minutes away).
DRIVE
Palermo to Castellamare di Golfo | 47 kms, 1 hour
From the airport, it's a straightforward drive along the highway; this thankfully provides a relatively easy introduction to driving in Sicily; any additional driving today will only involve short distances.
It really important that, whatever your previous driving experience, you're aware of certain things like ZTLs, the bizarre overtaking technique, the lack of indicators, and other Sicilian quirks before you set off in your rental car. This post - 15 Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily - has all the answers.
STAY
Castellammare del Golfo offers up the most options for accommodation, but you could also happily base yourself a little further along in the surrounding countryside or little villages. Here are a few great accommodation options for you in the town:
Santina Hotel | Elegant and fresh rooms with a seaside vibe, great staff and large terrace overlooking the town. Check availability here.
Carusi | Perfect pied-à-terre from which to explore, ideal Airbnb for a couple. Check availability here.
Le Suite del Mare | A good sized Airbnb, with cute terrace overlooking the ocean. Check availability here.
Find more accommodation hotel / guest house options for Castellammare del Golfo here.
KNOW
Seriously, please read about the realities of driving in Sicily at some point before you arrive and pick up your rental.
Day Five | Hike Lo Zingaro & Visit Tonnara di Scopello
Today is all about strapping on a pair of trainers and setting off on a hike - which means, we’d recommend setting that alarm nice and early to avoid exerting yourself during the hottest time of the day.
Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve is a version of paradise; rugged grey and black cliffs and crags, a tinderbox of sprawling and tumbling greens, and endless views of the turquoise water coves which form the faint outline of Sicily's beginnings. It was the first natural reserve of its kind in Sicily, and its offers up a stunning off-the-beaten-path way to reach some beautiful secret beaches and calas.
We absolutely loved it, and wish that somebody had written more about it before our own visit so that we knew exactly how great it was (and what to bring).
A day at Lo Zingaro can be as active as you wish, or simply a rustic way to get to to the first beautiful coves you stumble across on the trail (although we really would recommend walking the whole 14 kms). On the way back, you can also have a stop at Tonnara di Scopello, and Scopello itself, which is very pretty and famous due to its appears in Inspector Montalbano, but we felt it was a little…overrated.
If you’re really not a lover of walking or beautiful secret coves, then we'd recommend you instead take the beautiful drive up to the more touristic town of San Vito Lo Capo and have a more traditional beach day up there.
DRIVE
Castellammare del Golfo to Lo Zingaro Southern Entrance | 12 kms, 35 minutes
A car is essential to access Lo Zingaro, and it's a narrow winding potholed road to reach the dusty car park. If you arrive in peak summer season, there will be a gentelman there whose sole job it is to guide you into as tight a parking spot imaginable.
STAY
Spend your second and final night in Castellammare del Golfo.
PLAN
For all the necessary information on what to bring, where to park, and where to visit on the trail, then check out our Hiking Guide To Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve
Day Six | Drive to Trapani
Your next stop is Trapani, a small port city at the northwestern tip of Sicily which acts as the perfect base from which to discover the highlights of western Sicily.
Selecting good base towns is an essential part of any good road trip itinerary. It's rubbish if you have to pack and move on somewhere new every single morning, and it actually means you spend a lot of time thinking about the next place and check-in times, rather than savouring where you are or exploring.
That's why Trapani is essential to any successful Sicily road trip. Not only is it a very pleasant place to be in and of itself, but there are also a bunch of fantastic, accessible day trips which you can do with and without your car over the next few days.
We’d advise setting off nice and early today (especially if you plan on taking one of the detours we’ve mentioned below), so that you can spend a little time in the late afternoon and early evening exploring the beautiful historic centre of Trapani. Be sure you to have a wander and an appetitive along Corso Umberto which comes alive once the heat settles and makes an ideal spot for a bit of people watching as the locals take their evening passeggiata.
DRIVE
Castellammare del Golfo to Trapani | 36 km, 45 mins OR 50 kms, 40 mins OR 80 kms, 90 mins
You have a few options for your driving route today, and it all just depends on whether you want to take the quickest route, the scenic route, or have a stop off at Segesta and/or San Vito Lo Capo along the way.
If you didn’t make it to Segesta yesterday, we’d recommend taking the one-hour detour to visit these incredible archeological ruins, before continuing on your way. Alternatively, you could head off the highway closer to Trapani and take the really pretty road up to San Vito Lo Capo, a popular holiday beach town with a stunning mountain backdrop.
STAY
We spent five nights in total in Trapani, but recommend three nights in the town for your specific itinerary. Some of our favourite places to stay are:
Hotel Room of Andrea | A sumptuous boutique hotel in the centre of historic Trapani - check availability here.
Carolina's Nest | A Victorian-style building with a modern update and sea views, this delightful art-deco apartment is infused with natural light all day long - check availability here.
Il Poggiolo | Fully renovated Airbnb on the 4th floor of an Art Nouveau building in the heart of the historic centre - check availability here.
PLAN
You can find more Trapani accommodation options, plus our suggestions on the best things to do in the city, in our short guide to Trapani.
Day Seven | Visit Erice & Around Trapani
As you'll have spent some time in Trapani yesterday afternoon and evening, today is about making the most of your own wheels and exploring the local area - specifically, the impressive and super old salt flats and the stunning little town of Erice (one of the most famous spots in Sicily).
Precariously perched atop Monte San Giuliano, the wonderfully preserved medieval walled town of Erice allows an opportunity to step back in time at 751 metres above sea-level. The drive up the narrow hair pinned mountain road is a little ‘edge-of-your-seat’ (especially for the driver!), but the views from the top are absolutely spectacular.
We recommend you spend at least a half-day in Erice, preferably in the afternoon as the town comes alive under the golden late afternoon glow.
DRIVE
Trapani to Erice | 14 km, 30 mins
If you're the driver and want a break, you can also choose to leave the car parked up at the cable car station in Trapani or opt to take the bus to the cable car station (which means you can enjoy a few vinos).
STAY
This is your second night in Trapani, so enjoy being able to have your suitcase unpacked and to wash a few bits and pieces.
PLAN
For inspiration & information, you can read our guide to Erice. There’s also this post - The Best Day Trips from Trapani - which has plenty of advice on what you can visit with the car before or after Erice.
Day Eight | A Day Trip to Favignana
You'll be swapping four wheels for two today.
The island of Favignana, the largest of the Egadi islands, is simply wonderful. Small and easily accessible by daily ferries from Trapani, day-trippers can rent bicycles and head out along dusty roads to hidden away little coves, dine out on fresh seafood, and enjoy the idyllic scenes in the sunshine.
We absolutely loved it, and we know you will too.
DRIVE
No car required today! Instead, leave it parked up in Trapani, take the ferry there and back and rent a bicycle for the day. Electric bikes are also available, as well as scooters if you're unfit or have problems cycling (though we'd really really recommend the bicycles).
STAY
No unpacking required as this is your third night in Trapani. There are a bunch of places to stay on Favignana, but that would unfortunately just be a bit too complicated to do given that you’d have to leave your car in Trapani.
PLAN
Read more about how to get to Favignana, plus the route to take on your day trip cycling around the island, in this post: A Favignana Day Trip Guide.
Day Nine | Drive to Marsala
We were unfortunately only able to spend a few hours in Marsala, but we think it's ideal as your next stop in western Sicily.
Built on an ancient Roman shipping port, Marsala's elegant centre and waterfront is as pretty as one would expect. However, it's for wine that the city is most famous - specifically its fortified, dark, sweet Marsala. Make a point of doing a tasting in a wine shop or finding a bar to try a glass or two, or hit the road to visit surrounding vineyards.
DRIVE
Trapani to Marsala | 30 kms, 45 mins
It's only a 45-minute drive from Trapani along the via del sale, so you can visit some pretty salt pans along the way. Our advice is to get into your accommodation as early as possible so you can dump your stuff and head out to explore Marsala in the car and on foot.
STAY
We’ve chosen three beautiful and affordable accommodation options in Marsala to get you started.
Casa Marsalia | A beautiful hotel in the centro storico, tastefully refurbished with traditional touches. Highly recommended. Check availability here.
La Terrazza di Marsala | A host with an eye for design and an incredible terrace to boot. Check availability here.
Casita Tio Gianni | Amazing location, this modern, small but perfectly formed Airbnb is ideal for a couple. Check availability here.
You could also choose to only visit Marsala on the way to a countryside agriturismo or another town along the southwest coast which catches your eye for tonight. These two agriturismo / countryside hotels - Garden Cactus and Agriturismo Feudo Muxarello - are closer to Agrigento but look lovely.
KNOW
Whether you're an experienced road tripper or a first-timer, we bet we can save you some money on insurance and rental, plus reduce a lot of unnecessary stress, with our 9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers.
Day Ten | Drive to Agrigento
There’s a bit more driving involved today than previously, but nothing to worry about.
Once you’ve arrived in the hilltop city of Agrigento, you have two options: visit the famous and iconic Valley of the Temples in the late afternoon and for sunset, or simply explore Agrigento at your own pace with a stop at the ‘stairs of the winds’, some cocktails and amazing local food!
Neither choice is a wrong one.
DRIVE
Marsala to Agrigento | 2 hours 15 minutes, 145 kms
This is an easy coastal drive which doesn’t actually have any major stops of interest along the way.
We should take the opportunity here to implore that you choose to stop at a roadside cafe in Sicily at some point. Not only are they the place to have a toilet break, but they also are a cultural experience in their own right. This is not Little Chef - instead it’s a convivial atmosphere, freshly made Sicilian lunch options and strong, dark cups of espresso as a pick-me up for the road ahead.
STAY
These are three great, affordable options in within Agrigento (do note that Airbnbs in the city are fairly average across the board):
La Terrazza di Empedocle | Modern design with some cool quirky elements, this has a huge terrace with fantastic views out over the Valley of the Temples. Check availability here.
Camere a Sud | A B&B that feels like a home located in the heart of the centro storico. Modern design with traditional Sicilian touches throughout. Check availability here.
Casuzza di Girgenti | By far the coolest Airbnb in Agrigento, choc full of vintage pieces plus a small terraces with spectacular views. Check availability here.
La terrazza di Zia Maria | In the centre of the old town, this Airbnb has quite possibly the best terrace in Agrigento. Check availability here.
As before, this section of the Sicily road trip offers up a great opportunity to branch out of staying within the city and go for a countryside Airbnbs or guesthouses, or stay somewhere in a small village along the south coast.
Day Eleven | Visit Valley of The Temples & The Turkish Stairs
If you chose to visit Valley of the Temples yesterday, then you can instead choose to spend a slow, romantic morning in Agrigento and then head out with the car to the unrivalled white cliffs of the Turkish Stairs (Scala dei Turchi) for the afternoon and an amazing sunset.
We also visited a handful of rugged, wild beaches in national parks to the west of Agrigento (including Torre Salsa) - we liked them a lot, but don’t recommend that you tag them onto today just for the sake of it.
DRIVE
Valley of the Temples to the Turkish Stairs | 20 minutes, 14 kms
There’s not too much driving today if you’re based in Agrigento, as it’s only 10 minutes to the Valley of the Temples and about 20 minutes onward from there to the Scala Dei Turchi.
STAY
This is your second night in or around Agrigento, so no need to worry about moving on.
PLAN
We’ve got a couple of guides to help you plan today’s explorations. Be sure to take a look at ‘7 Things to Know Before You Visit The Valley of the Temples’ and ‘How To Visit Scala dei Turchi’.
Day Twelve | The Wildcard
Now, long time readers of Along Dusty Roads will know that this travel blog isn’t about ticking everything off bucket lists or going as quickly as possible just to say we’ve been somewhere. And we know that many of you will share that travel style - and many more of you are trying to adapt to it more in the post-Covid age.
In our Sicily road trip route, we have brought you to Cefalu for your last night. That’s because Cefalu is deserving of being your final destination, but also conveniently located for your drive back to Palermo Airport.
However, we don’t want every single person who reads this to follow the exact same itinerary in Sicily - that’s where the wildcard option comes in. It’s an opportunity for you to adjust or adapt the last eleven days to your personal travel style, your travel budget, your passions, or your energy levels.
To allow space for serendipity to occur on your own very Sicilian summer.
So, choose to take the narrow, winding countryside roads up through toasted fields of golden grain to spend the night in Corelone and find out about the notorious town which spawned much of what we know as the mafia (and visit an absolutely incredible museum set up to destroy some of the myths associated with it and Sicily).
Or stick around in Agrigento and go to the wild beaches.
Or decide to add this serendipity day to hanging out in Trapani a little longer and doing nothing but eating all the pesto alla trapanese you can lay your hands on.
Or go to Cefalu a day early.
Or take a lazy day to lie in bed together on holiday.
Or find a wonderful, remote agriturismo (like this one) and catch up on your reading with a glass of wine.
Or add an extra day to your stay in and around Castellamare di Golfo.
We write our guides to give you all the necessary information and inspiration to have the perfect road trip, but we would hate to remove all the fun and serendipity for you! So take that 'free day' in Sicily and let us know in the comments or over on our Instagram (@alongdustyroads) what you end up doing with it!
Day Thirteen | Drive to Cefalu
A little gem on the northern coast, we immediately regretted not having longer in Cefalu.
The main reason was because we had read a few reports of it being incredibly touristy in summer. It was, of course, touristy and busy but not in a trashy, overwhelming, or crap way. Aside from begin absolutely beautiful, Cefalu is also a very practical final stop for your road trip as it’s just over an hour along the highway from Palermo Airport.
So, whatever you do with your wildcard day, make sure it eventually takes you to the sea in Cefalu for our final night.
DRIVE
Agrigento to Cefalu | 2 hours, 155 kms
The quickest route north involves toll roads - we weren’t charged anything on these but you should have some change in your car just in case. You could opt to go the scenic long way round along back roads, but the time saved by going along the ugly but efficient autostrada is worth it
STAY
Agrodolce | Slap bang in the historic centre and only a few minutes walk to the beach, Agrodolce is a charming little B&B with a Mediteranean vibe.
Casa La Vela | Without a doubt, this is the prettiest Airbnb in Cefalu and the perfect place for couples to end their Silician adventure on a high - check availability here.
Hotel Kalura | One of the out-of-town options, but Hotel Kalura is too beautiful (and popular) not to mention - check availability here.
PLAN
You can find out all our favourite things to do in our guide to Cefalu.
Day Fourteen | Fly Home from Palermo
You final day really does depend on what time you’ve got to fly and return the rental car (remember to match these up together when booking your car!). If it’s a night flight, then try to get a later check-out from your Airbnb or hotel so that you can eek out a little more time at the beach or elsewhere.
DRIVE
Cefalu to Palermo Airport | 1 hour 15 mins, 100 kms
The road we travelled home.
It's a straightforward route, but when you are in and around the suburbs of Palermo, it can be a wee bit stressful and congested. Just take a breath, keep your concentration, and you'll get out the other side unscathed - by this point in your trip though, you should be pretty well versed in the quirks of the road on the island, but just don’t get complacent on the final stretch!
Give yourself plenty of time to cater for any traffic jams, accidents, or other delays on the way to the airport. As you have to return your car and go through checks stage on the vehicle, aim to arrive no later 3 hours before your flight departs.
Remember, you also have to fill up your rental car before you drop it off. There are a couple of petrol stations close to the airport, but you will have to make a point of seeking them out on Google Maps and go off the main road - and also note that you will likely have to clean the inside and outside of your car when returning it to any rental car company in Sicily. Thankfully, lots of petrol stations along the way have a car wash machine with a hoover extension to clean out all the sand and dust that will have accumulated over the past two weeks
When you're 10 miles or so from the airport, get your navigator to put in 'petrol stations' in Google Maps and follow the specific directions to one!
· · ·
And that, fellow travellers, is a wrap! We hope we’ve given you plenty of clear inspiration and information to help you plan you own Siciliy road trip! For more tips and advice to help you prepare, take a look at 15 Essential Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily or scroll down to the bottom of the page to find all our Sicily guides.
Or if you just want to go straight to the inspo, then go to 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Sicily!
