Heading to Varkala? Our personal guide has got your covered! Discover all the best things to do in Varkala, top restaurant recommendations, where to stay and our insider tips.
In years to come, much of what travellers call Varkala will be gone.
The foundations of this beachtown, precariously perched upon the edge of ancient ochre cliffs and golden sands, will one day give way to the salt water of the Arabian Sea which flows over golden sands to lap, kiss, and lick away at them each night in a fatal nightly embrace, timed to the whims of the moon.
The slow coastal erosion will see the curving clifftop lane which houses souvenir stalls, cute restaurants, and undercover bars with balconies, become narrower and less welcoming each year. The sea will come closer, and eventually they will tumble, causing red clouds of dust to plume upward against a clear blue sky.
The prophetically named Cafe del Mar may even live upto its title, and be swallowed whole by the surf to be the cafe of the sea in the sea.
For now, that moment is however a long way off, and the unique clifftop residence of Varkala which will one day be its (literal) downfall is presently the thing which makes its so alluring, so seductive. This place - or at least the part which we travellers will spent most time in over the course of a week - straddles the Venn diagram of chilled out backpacker enclave, holy place for Hindus, and downward dog hub for aspiring yogis.
It remains the perfect option to enjoy the chilled out serenity of Kerala, to work on your tan, and enjoy the sunshine. It’s likely to be your first or last stop in Kerala depending on your flight paths, and we would totally expect you to extend your stay for a night or two like we did.
Here are our favourite things to do in Varkala, plus tips on where to stay, our favourite restaurants, and how to get there and away from Alleppey, Trivandrum, or Kochi.
6 wonderful Things to do in Varkala
Hang out at Varkala beach
Famous in every guidebook and brochure, Varkala beach is one of the first images you will stumble across when researching your trip to Kerala.
Despite the ubiquity of these snapshots, it remarkably still exceeded our expectations.
The beach, also known as Papanasham Beach, is large, clean and with plenty of space to ‘find your own spot'; it was an excellent place to decamp for our first few days in India.
Additionally, and we say this now with hindsight, for those who are heading to Kerala after a stint at Goa’s more popular beaches, the relative peacefulness and absence of beach hawkers will make for a delightful change - even if you can’t get a cold beer to go with the view (more on that later…).
For those that don’t want to be burnt to a crisp - and if you’re venturing to the beach during the hot summer months, this should be everyone - the option to rent sun loungers and umbrellas will be a welcome relief. These go for around Rs. 600 a set (£6.3 / €7.4 / $8.3) but just be sure to get there early as numbers seemed to be limited.
An important thing to note is that there is a strong riptide here, and in comparison to spots a little further up the coast, it really does become quite messy and choppy. Take heed of the red flags and the lifeguard’s whistle warnings (given his button down shirt and long trousers it may not be entirely obvious that he is a lifeguard, but you can’t miss his whistle, with which he is quite liberal!)
Varkala Beach Access | To access the sand, simply take one of several steep staircases that wind down from the narrow path on the edges of the Northern Cliffs (making sure to say hello to the friendly troop of pups that call this home).
Varkala Beach Holy Site | Before heading to Varkala we read multiple times that the main beach at the foot of the Northern Cliffs was segmented into a section for sunbathing and another for worship, as it’s an important Hindu holy site. Yet, whilst seeing a handful of Indian people in traditional dress as opposed to swimwear (who could have just been tourists), we didn’t witness any obvious religious ceremony or gathering occurring anywhere along the beach or in the water. Neither was there a clear segmentation of areas for sunbathing and areas to avoid.
It’s quite possible that it was the time of year that we visited (November), so please do just be aware of the importance of the beach for any pilgrims act respectfully and accordingly.
Visit Ponnumthuruthu Island
Due to the abundance of beach, beer and general lounging about that we did during our time in Varkala, we didn’t actually make it out to Ponnumthuruthu Island, but it certainly piqued our interest - not least because of the colourful Hindu temple hidden amongst the acacia.
Unfortunately non-Hindus are not allowed to enter, but others that have taken the 1.5 hours round trip by non-motorised boat state that it’s a very scenic journey, and a wonderful way to see Varkala beyond its beaches.
The boat ride costs 600 rupees for two people (£6.3 / €7.4 / $8.3), and island admission is 50 rupees per person (£0.5 / €0.5 / $0.5). You’ll also need to negotiate a round-trip rickshaw ride with waiting time, for which you should expect to pay around 600 rupees.
Alternatively, a number of hostels arrange the boat trip and transport for guests.
get your yoga on
Yoga is big business in Varkala, with numerous camps offering long-stay courses (both for your own practice and to gain a teaching qualification). However, if you’d prefer to just do a few classes during your stay, there are several businesses offering drop-in morning and afternoon sessions for around 300 - 400 rupees per person. There are no shortage of options advertised around town, but we can recommend the following:
Nomad | Located on the main Northern Cliffs thoroughfare, this café offers rooftop yoga sessions at 8.15 a.m. and 2.30 p.m. for 300 rupees per person (£3.2 / €3.7 / $4.2)
Karuna Holy Stay | Owned and operated by a French expat, Karuna offers daily walk-in yoga classes for 400 rupees per person (£4.2 / €5 / $5.6). It’s located towards the end of the North Cliffs near the helipad (Google Maps). For those looking for a longer course, they also offer yoga retreats - click here to find out more.
Indulge in an Ayuverdic Massage
Developed in India more than 3,000 years ago, Ayurvedic medicine is one of the world's oldest holistic healing systems, most frequently experienced by tourists in the form of an Ayurvedic massage.
In Varkala, you’ll find no shortage of men and women trying to coax you into their ‘spa’ for your own healing moment - but, as we discovered following our own experience and speaking with others, not all massages are created equal.
Beginning at 700 rupees for your basic just-cover-you-in-oil-and-rub-you-up-and-down-for-an-hour routine (for the record, this is the one we opted for first - there was a lot of nakedness, a very unflattering paper thong, and and an oil that we’re both convinced we can still smell), a slightly more authentic or enjoyable Ayurvedic experience can be found for around 1000 - 1400 rupees.
Whilst it’s definitely not a massage choice for those that have some serious knots to work out, in most cases there are worse ways to spend an hour in a rain storm.
Top tip | We’d absolutely recommend tipping your masseuse. Especially if they've just spent an hour rubbing your near-naked arse in oil.
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walk the trail north
After a couple of days of true indulgence (read: eating too much curry and lying on the beach), we felt the need to stretch our legs; an 7 km hike along the coast was perfect!
The trail is super easy to find and follow (basically, when on the busy path along the cliffs, with the sea in front of you, turn right and keep on walking - or just walk towards this point on Google Maps and keep on going!), it leads you first through an area populated with resorts and yoga retreats before opening up on to a peaceful trail that passes isolated beaches, palm tree forests, a fisherman’s enclave, and a beautiful splash of backwaters (not the Kerala backwaters though).
Due to the heat, we’d recommend setting off nice and early (advice we weren’t entirely able to follow ourselves) and coming prepared with beach stuff as you’ll definitely want to spend some time sunning yourself on the quiet beaches you pass.
With no stops, the walk should take around two hours and you’ll know you’ve come to end when you see the point at which the backwaters merge with the sea, and you arrive at a lovely stretch of sand known as ‘Kappil Beach’.
To return to Varkala, you can either walk back the way you came or head on to the road and grab a lift from one of the passing rickshaws. Note that in order to reach the road we opted to wade across knee deep water (or chest deep if you took Emily’s route that avoided rocks) but in retrospect, it’s almost certainly possible to take a detour to the right in the direction of the small bridge. Also, expect a lot of selfie requests around here!
We paid 200 rupees for a rickshaw back to our hostel, which seemed reasonable.
Hit the Surf
Whilst Kerala isn’t a world famous surf destination, Varkala has a surprisingly large number of surf camps offering a week long surf (or surf + yoga) package. This will usually include accommodation, board rental, lessons and transport to local surf spots and can be great way for beginners to find their feet - or for experts to ensure they hit the best breaks along the coast.
If you’re just in town for a few days however, it’s possible to get a single surf lesson or just rent a board for a full day or half day. Either speak with one of the local surf camps or schools (Moon Waves is a surf school run by two local guys who charge 1500 rupees per lesson - £16 / €18.5 / $20.9 - or 800 rupees for half day rental), your accommodation or the guy towards the helipad, close to Karuna yoga, who rents them out.
As with swimming however, be warned that at certain parts along this stretch of coast the riptide is pretty harsh so if you’re not a strong swimmer this may not be the best place to learn.
where to stay in Varkala
After our wanderings to the south side of the cliffs, our time around the north, and an easy hike all the way up the coast towards the Kappil beach, we’re confident that backpackers and travellers planning a few nights in Varkala will be happiest around the northern cliffs. If you’re staying for a specific surf camp or yoga retreat, it’s possible that you may be based outside of this area and accessibility to its restaurants and the main beach may not be as important; for everyone else however, you’ll want that location.
Hostels and homestays are clustered in the small back streets behind the cliff side, but none are more than five or so minutes walk to or from a narrow access point to the single cliff edge street which has all the restaurants and stalls. The majority of the more upmarket hotels and guest houses can however be found lining that small path and opening up directly onto it.
We spent a lot of time researching the options given that our first few nights in India were to be spent in Varkala. However, in true ADR style, we lumped for Lungi Vibe (at 450 rupees for a double, it was one of the cheapest accommodations in Varkala) as, at least in writing, location and facilities seemed to be on a par with other hostels in town. Our conclusion? Friendly staff, a few mins walk from sea front, secure and perfect for a couple of nights but the rock hard mattress and lack of light in our room made it feel a bit dingy after four nights. Still a very good choice if you’re on a tight budget though!
From the dozens and dozens of accommodation options available though - including Varkala beach resorts, to hostels and hostels - here are a selection of our favourites for different budgets and travel styles.
Lost Hostel | We have to admit, we were somewhat put off by a line on their Hostelworld landing page stating that you should ‘not choose us if you rate a hostel based on its facilities rather than people and atmosphere’. That said however, we spoke with a number of travellers staying there who seemed perfectly happy with their choice. Large garden space, self-catering facilities and a sociable atmosphere. Check availability and prices on hostelworld.
Prashanthi Cliff | Although £21 per night for a standard double is much more than some of the cheaper options, we still think that Prashanthi offers exceedingly good value with excellent rooms, a great location and a luxurious touch. Check availability and prices here.
Mad About Coco | This is where we almost chose to stay, seduced by their excellent reviews and roof top yoga classes. Located a few minutes from the beach, it’s really well located just behind Nomad (the perfect hipster restaurant you’ll find mentioned later that is actually part of the same business). Check availability and prices here.
Puccini Lala Eco Wellness Retreat | With yoga classes, an on-site Ayuverdic doctor and a strong eco-focus, Puccini is a great option if you’re looking for a wellness retreat that’s still within the Northern Cliffs. It also has a fantastic little café/restaurant serving up delicious and healthy meals. As a bonus, it’s extremely good value with private rooms for as little as £14 a night. Check availability and prices here.
Cliff Stories | Our only option on the south beach, Cliff Stories looks just wonderful (and is the only place that made us consider using this section of the beach as our base). Away from the main tourist throngs, it has a wonderfully serene vibe, a fantastic view, cozy common areas and good rooms - it even has access to a private beach. Definitely one for a couple looking to get away from it all! Check availability and prices here.
Satta Beach Deluxe | Varkala beach resorts with pools are remarkably rare, but the vast majority are located around the Oddayam Beach area (passed on the walk to Kappil Beach) - and Satta Beach is, in our opinion, the best. A monochrome contemporary design throughout, a great outdoor space, right on the sea front and, from £28 a night, actually pretty good value for money. The restaurants here are also highly recommended. Check availability and prices here.
MINT Inside Beach Hotel is another good option in the same area, although it doesn’t have a pool.
If you just want something cheap and cheerful, then check out The Wheelhouse and Bamboo Village.
where to eat and drink food in varkala beach
If there’s one thing that’s not lacking in Varkala, it’s food options.
Honestly, some nights it was a little overwhelming exactly where to choose along the cliff road, with everything from very traditional Keralan cuisine, to pretty decent Italian, Nepalese, Chinese, Tibetan, burgers and an abundance of hipster hangouts. We couldn’t be more glad that we’d decided to stay somewhere without a kitchen!
So, arrive in Varkala with your fat pants (or buy a pair from one of the many clothes stalls when you arrive, with extra stretchy elastic on the waist!).
Nomad | The rescue doggies are enough for us to recommend Nomad, but it’s nailed it when it comes to knowing its market i.e. travellers like us who will fall over ourselves to eat authentic local food presented beautifully in a rustic open-air ambience. Curries, including chapati, rice and raita are around 300 rupees each - and excellent. They also run ‘Mad About Coco’, the hostel/guest house that sits behind the restaurant.
True Thomas | We are so happy that a fellow traveller recommended this place to us, which turned out to be right next door to our hostel. Serving up excellent curries, authentic Nepalese cuisine and an exceptionally good value lunchtime thali that Emily still dreams about. The interior design is also on point.
Darjeeling | Similar in style and vibe to Nomad (unsurprisingly considering we’ve since discovered it’s owned by the same family), Darjeeling provides delicious curries in a cool setting. The juices are also rather delicious!
God’s Own Country Kitchen | Super close to the helipad which separates the north and south cliffs (and where you can always find a tuk-tuk) GOCK served up food that was pleasant enough and reasonably priced. However, we think this place is better suited to a sunset beer or cocktail. It’s also probably the closest you’ll get in Varkala to a traditional backpacker bar and frequently has live music.
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White Rabbit Vegetarian Cafe | We found the food a little lacking in zest at White Rabbit, but it was undoubtedly one of the best spots to hang out for a smoothie or chai and read, or if you’re a digital nomad, to get some work done.
The Coffee Temple | Offering up a plethora of meal options (including many veggie choices), this place is famous for - understandably - its coffee. They do also sell coverts beers, but this will only be provided with a meal.
Tibet Kitchen | We didn’t actually eat here ourselves, but if you’ve travelled in Tibet or Nepal and have become borderline obsessed with momos, this is apparently an excellent spot to get your fill.
Blue Moon | We stopped at this super friendly restaurant almost every night for a cheap covert beer in a ceramic tankard on the rooftop - at 180 rupees (£1.9 / €2.2 / $2.5), they’re quite possibly the cheapest in Varkala. ‘Wimbledon’ next door is also a good shout, mostly for its banging sound track.
Varkala Transport Options
Whether you arrive to Varkala by train or bus, in order to reach the beach and backpacker zone you’ll need to jump in a rickshaw.
We were advised that the standard fare from the train station to the northern cliffs was 100 rupees and, sure enough, this is what we were quoted each time we made the journey. In our experience, drivers can sometimes try to up the fare a wee bit for unexpecting foreign tourists so don’t be afraid to negotiate if the first price you’re quoted is more. The journey should take around 10 minutes and there will always be room for your luggage, either in the back or on your laps.
We’d strongly recommend that you have a note of your accommodation and the address (stick it in an offline Google Map) as the drivers don’t know every street or place in the cliff area.
If you’re ever in need of a tuk-tuk in Varkala, you’ll always be able to find one at the Helipad (Google Maps).
Trivandrum | Approx. one hour away if you manage to catch the express train, which we recommend. Fixed fares are 45 rupees in the general class carriage (cheapest, but likely that you’ll stand the entire way) or 90 rupees in sleeper.
Alleppey | The train is scheduled to take two hours, with beautiful countryside and backwater views, but ours was closer to three. The cost was 120 rupees per person in sleeper carriage - and this is where you need to come if you want to visit the Kerala backwaters.
Kochi | Kochi, also referred to as Cochin of Fort Kochi, is an essential part of any Kerala itinerary. It’s only 4-5 hours away, but you are likely to stop off in Alleppey if travelling to/from Varkala. However, if you’d like to plan your time in the city, then read our guide to Kochi.
*As in much of India, bus travel is a possibility in Kerala, but given the speed, frequency and good value of trains we’d only recommend four wheels if absolutely necessary.
Read Later | 11 Things To Know Before You Visit The Kerala Backwaters
Important Things to Know Before Visiting Varkala
ATMs | There are no ATMs in the actual cliff area so we’d recommend bringing as much cash as you will require. If not, you’ll need to take a rickshaw into the town to top up your cash supplies. Your best bet is either around the train station or the post office, but note that several of the ATMs won’t work with your card or will be shut - the Federal Bank in Varkala worked for us.
Drinking | As we’ve mentioned in our 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Kerala post, whilst Kerala is not a dry state, it has incredibly strict licensing laws. This means that bars without licences (ie the vast majority) can’t legally sell you alcohol. The good news however is that most of the bars and restaurants in Varkala don’t strictly adhere to this, but instead of placing bottles of beer on the table will fill up large ceramic mugs and place any excess by your feet and out of sight. It may also be in menus as ‘holy water’.
Curfew | Likely to resist becoming another Goan beach resort, which we applaud the local authorities for having the foresight to try and prevent, there is a relatively strict curfew enforced meaning that pretty much everywhere shuts down at 11 p.m.
Dress | As Varkala beach is such a popular holiday and backpacker destination, the modest dress code that should be adhered to in much of the region can be relaxed rather significantly here and standard beach attire is absolutely fine. That said however, it’s still not appropriate to walk to and from your accommodation in a bikini. We saw some girls do it, and couldn’t help but cringe a little bit inside. We had heard warnings that women may experience unwelcome attention whilst lying in swimwear on the sand however Emily encountered none of this, even when we were separated.
Sustainability | We’ve become so used to saying ‘no straw’ in pretty much every place we eat or drink, but in many of the places in Varkala Beach this was met with a reassuring statement that the establishment used metal or paper ones instead. Additionally, most accommodation providers offer filtered water to fill up your water bottle and place a bottle on your table when you eat. That said, it’s frighteningly obvious that Varkala still suffers from a plastic litter problem - please don’t add to this. Whilst we saw many people with refillable water bottles (a good thing!), there were very few with water filter bottles (which we use to access clean drinking water anywhere in the world).
So please, before you set off on your Indian adventure, be sure to invest in either a Water-to-Go or a Grayl.
For more advice, read this post all about why travel filter water bottles are brilliant or this one on how to use less plastic when you travel.
