We didn’t make it to Monopoli the first time we visited Puglia.
Two weeks spent criss-crossing the region, in the lingering summer heat of an unseasonably warm October had left us craving the cool waters of the Adriatic Sea upon on our skin and dampened our desire to explore the flower-lined streets of yet another city - no matter how beautiful that city may be.
So, when we retuned for our second visit to Puglia the following spring, Monopoli was at the top of our list.
And it was definitely worth the wait.
With a much more lived-in feel than some of the more popular tourist towns in the area, Monopoli allows you to have a beautiful, quintessentially southern Italian experience whilst still catching glimpses into everyday life; fishermen and their catch retuning to the photogenic harbour in the mid-morning, groups of men - young and old - congregating on the street to discuss everything and nothing in a sing-song language often to quick to understand, nonnas on balconies watching the world go by, and bars full of locals and not tourists.
Throw in the fact that it’s close to many fine beaches and within easy driving distance of many of the area’s biggest attractions and beautiful villages, and Monopoli makes a truly wonderful base from which to explore Puglia.
In this guide you’ll find our pick of the best things to do in Monopoli, a few restaurant suggestions, tips on day trips and swimming spots and delightful places to stay.
Things to do in Monopoli
Get Lost in the Old Town
The modern city that surrounds the centro storico is full of colour, with buildings a kaleidoscope of pinks, oranges and blues. Move further into the past however, along the narrow winding streets that criss-cross an area of land that has been inhabited for centuries, and the city becomes white, with the only accents Monopoli’s sage green window shutters and balcony boxes in full bloom.
The historic centre is the perfect size to negotiate in a few hours. As always in Italy, simply follow your instinct, your curiosity and - depending on time of day - your nose along boutique lined streets, towards small squares, through arches and towards the sea.
Oh, and be sure to have a camera handy - their really is a photo around every corner!
Whilst we wouldn’t recommend planning a specific route around the centro storico, there are a few places that we’d like to draw your attention to:
Basilica of the Madonna della Madia | More than just another pretty Italian church, Monopoli’s cathedral has a rather interesting tale attached to it… Dedicated to Madonna della Madia, who - as legend will have it - arrived here by sea on the December 15, 1117 on a raft bearing 31 wooden beams. Wooden beams that just so happens allowed the city to complete the church that had sat uncompleted for several years - how very fortunate!
The wooden church no longer stands, having been replaced with a rather impressive Baroque building in the 1700s, and whether you believe the myth or not, it’s definitely worth poking your head inside to admire the incredible ornate interior (which is infinitely more impressive than it looks fro the outside).
Museo della Cattedrale | If you have a passion for ecclesiastical art, consider popping into this museum on Piazza Cathedrale. It’s open Thursday to Saturday 6 to 9pm, Sunday 10:30am to 1pm and 6 to 9pm, and costs €2 per person.
Palmieri Palace | Located in a quiet square of the same name, the 18th century Baroque palace provides a fantastic example of Lecce-inspired architecture. Built for the local Palmieri family, it is now in the hands of a charity and undergoing significant renovation works. Technically you can visit between the hours of 6pm and 8pm but this is not always strictly adhered to.
Chiesa di San Salvatore | Said to be the oldest church in Monopoli, it dates back to the 4th century.
pizza and people watching in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
A nondescript glass of chilled white wine at a nondescript bar in a beautiful Italian piazza; there are few things we’d rather do in this country than pull up a wooden chair and watch the tales of local life unfold before us.
And in Monopoli, the very best place to do that is in Pizza Giuseppe Garibaldi.
It’s a wonderful to place to sit at any time of day, but it truly comes alive after 5pm when visitors and residents alike flock to the many bars and restaurants that line its perimeter for an early evening aperitivo.
Top tip | We can highly recommend Piazzetta 10 Pizza & Restaurant in the piazza. The tables outside are excellent for people watching, the white wine by the glass is rather good and the pizzas are excellent! Oh, and if you’ve still got room for dessert, be sure to check out Gelateria Caruso - the pistachio ice cream was excellent!
Take a Stroll Along the Lungomare
Before or after the sun climbs high in the sky, we’d highly recommend taking a stroll along the lungomare - the paved promenade that runs along the coast, skirting Monopoli’s old town.
Not only does it provide an alternative vantage point of the city and a cooling sea breeze, but it will also bring you to a number of the city’s historical highlights.
Il Bastione Santa Maria | Just beyond the port, opposite Chiesa Santa Maria della Zaffara Secolo, you will find evidence of an old defensive tower with two relatively well preserved canons, designed to protect Monopoli during more turbulent times
You’re able to climb the tower from which you can gain a better vantage point along the coast. Find it here on Google Maps.
Castello di Carlo V | Built on a promontory (that’s a piece of land that juts out into the sea to most of us), this 16th century castle is a must-visit for all who pass through Monopoli. Beautifully restored it now plays host to weddings, conferences and exhibitions. There are rumours that tourists can access the roof for spectacular views out over the old town and the sea but when we visited this was not possible.
You can find the castle here on google maps.
Looking for beaches in Monopoli?
Our visit to Monopoli in the cooler month of March was not terribly conducive to dips in the sea and hours at the beach, however there are a number of sandy stretches and pleasant coves within the city limits, and a short car ride away for those visitng Monopoli in the summer as part of a Puglia road trip.
All the names highlighted below are links to the specific location on Google Maps - don’t say we don’t make things easy for you!
Cala Porto Rosso | A delightful sandy cove about a 15 minute walk from the old town. If the beach section gets crowded, you’re also able to sit atop a grassy area that still has access to the sea.
Calamarena | Popular with in the know locals, this wild cove has crystal clear water, sunbeds for rent and a small bar with good Aperol spritz.
Cala Paradiso | Part beach club - but with a section of sand that can be used for free - this is a very popular beach during the warmer months.
Spiaggia di Porto Marzano | A small sandy beach that is free to access, with wild surroundings. Popular with families and also has free parking and a bar during the warmest months.
Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo | A lively sandy cove at the foot of an abbey, this isn’t a great choice for those who want a peaceful Monopoli beach experience, but is incredibly popular. Also has a nice bar/restaurant renting out sunbeds and parasols.
Spiaggia di Santo Stefano | Overlooked by a medieval castle, this is probably the most photogenic beach in the area (seriously, just take a looks at the parasols), with beautiful water to boot!
Capitolo | If you prefer long stretches of sand over small coves, Capitolo is the one for you. Located nearby Egnazi Archeological Park, it has a variety of beach clubs for all budgets as well as free sections of beach.
Porto Antico di Monopoli
Is there anything more photogenic than colourful boats atop blue waters?
Throw in weather-worn fishermen sorting their early morning catch, and that’s reason enough for us to remain harbourside, camera in hand, for quite some time.
The red and blue boats - called ‘gonzo’ - are actually pretty iconic for the region, many made by local ship making artisans, and their contrast against the white washed walls of Monopoli’s old town is quite marvellous.
Top tip | If you just can’t get enough of the harbour view, consider staying in this stunning little Airbnb which used to be an old fisherman’s cottage.
Take a Day Trip
Monopoli's location makes it an ideal place to base yourself for your Puglia explorations, with easy access by car (and occasionally public transport) to many of the region's biggest attractions.
These are some of our top recommendations for excellent day trips from Monopoli:
Polignano a Mare | The home of Puglia's most famous beach - Cala Porto - Polignano is a popular stop on all Puglian itineraries. Only 15 minutes away by car (and train) from Monopoli, it’s an ideal day trip.
Find out more in our guide, including advice on how to get there.
Ostuni | When readers ask, Ostuni is usually our other recommendation for a great place to stay as a base for your Puglia road trip, but if you plan on using Monopoli as a base, this very pretty hilltop white city is also possible to visit as a day trip with most of its major sites easy to negotiate in a few hours.
You can find out much more in our guide to Ostuni.
Alberobello | AUNESCO Heritage site with its iconic trulli, Alberobello is a must-do in the region. For us, its touristy vibe make it preferable to visit on a day trip.
You can read all our tips for visiting Alberobello here, or if you’d prefer to take a tour, click here.
The pretty villages of the Valle d'Itria | The villages of Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo are some of our favourite places in Puglia, and if you set aside the entire day, it's certainly possible to visit them all at once from Monopoli.
Archeological park and National Museum of Egnazia | Dating back to the Bronze Age, the ancient town of Egnazia is home to a number of impressive Roman and Messapic ruins. Excavation is ongoing, and whilst most of the high value objects have been plundered over the years, it remains a fascinating site for those with an interest in archeology.
The park and museum is open daily 8.30am - 7pm during the summer, and 8.30 am to 4.30 pm during the winter months. Entry is €3 per person. Very easy to visit with a car, but there’s also a public bus that runs from Monopoli in summer.
Where to Stay in Monopoli
As we’ve mentioned quite a bit, Monopoli makes a fantastic base for your wider Puglian adventures. So, what you’ll find below is a selection of our personal accommodation recommendations, including Airbnbs, hotels and guest houses.
Airbnbs in Monopoli
There are an astoundingly large number of Airbnbs in Monopoli, so we’ve put together this separate article with our pick of the city’s best. If your travel style is more apartment than hotel, then head on over to the best airbnbs in Monopoli to find out more!
Guest Houses and Hotels in Monopoli
Dimora Pietrabianca | At £83 a night, this hotel is exceptionally good value. A stone’s throw from Pizza Garibaldi, it is clean and modern with excellent facilities. Click here to find out more.
B&B Portorosso | A short walk from the old town (and very close to Cala Porto Rosso, hence the name), this is a super stylish B&B for those that appreciate modern design, with large rooms and clean lines. Click here to find out more
Casa Emma | Located I the heart of the old town, from £118 per night, Casa Emma has large rooms full of light and furnished to a high standard. It’s also just a few metres fro the beach. Click here to find out more.
Monopoli has a number of excellent hotel/B&Bs around the same price point, of which we’d recommend Palazzo Indelli, B&B A C-caste and Dimora Maio.
Hotel Don Ferrante | Definitely not a hotel to suit every budget, but if you’re looking to splurge on a truly luxurious hotel, Don Ferrante is very highly rated, with all the facilities you’d expect from a 5* hotel. Click here to find out more.
There are also a number of beautiful Masseira (essentially very fancy countryside retreats) a handful of miles from Monopoli which remain ideally located for exploring the region, with easy access to and from the city. If this sounds like something you might enjoy, our two picks are Masseria Torrepietra and Masseria Il Melograno. Both have fantastic facilities and exceptional design.
How to Get to Monopoli from Bari
Given Monopoli's close proximity to Bari (it's only 29 miles away), the vast majority of people visiting Monopoli - be that as a day trip or using it as a base - will arrive from the city.
Bari to Monopoli by Car
On both occasions that we've visited Puglia, we've rented a car for the duration of our stay. This is an amazing destination for an Italian road trip, and having your own wheels will allow you to make the best of your time in the region.
The 29 miles between Bari and Monopoli are easily covered by car, and the journey should take around 45 minutes, dependent upon traffic.
If you’re flying into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport and picking up your rental car there, it’s a straightforward 45 minute drive to Monopoli (don’t drive through Bari) on the SS16 highway. For both our road trips in Puglia, we have found and booked our car using the AutoEurope website.
If renting a car, then just make sure to check with your accommodation in advance about the best place to park up in Monopoli - some places will have free parking, but most won’t (especially those in the old town).
Read more | Things to Know Before Driving in Puglia and Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary
Bari to Monopoli by Train
For those not keen on renting a car to experience Puglia, the good news is that the train network along the west coast of the region is actually pretty good - including between Bari and Monopoli.
There are regular departures leaving from Bari Centrale (Google Maps) multiple times a day (€3.30 per person), and journey time is between 25-55 minutes depending upon which train you take. Please note that the centro storico is around a 25 minute walk from the train station.
If you are coming from Bari Airport directly to Monopoli, you can jump on a train there instead of coming into the city. The trains cost €3.30 from here.
To check prices, availability and timetables, click here.