Want to know the best things to do in Kampot or where to stay? Our guide has got you covered!
Spoiler alert - there’s going to be a lot about pepper…
We are conflicted about Kampot.
On the one hand, it offered up many of the experiences we loved about travel in Cambodia. Photogenic colonial-era architecture, a thriving scene of local markets and curiosities, a smattering of cool ex-pat businesses having a positive impact, plenty of opportunities to get out and explore the countryside independently, and a laid-back, sun-tinged pace.
So, there was a lot for us to love about Kampot - an awful lot.
However, we had a sour taste in our mouth from our first stroll around the compact old town centre; and that taste lingered throughout our stay.
In this small city by the river - globally famous for its pepper and a convenient distance from Phnom Penh - the malignant presence of sex tourism in Cambodia was more prominent and pronounced than anywhere else we visited in our three week trip.
During the day, groups of pathetic old white men in singlets (it’s pretty much exclusively old white dudes by the way) coalesce to drink cheap beer, or go it alone with a much younger female companion by their side. By night, they lurch and shuffle toward the neon-lit bars dedicated to turning a blind eye.
The sex tourism industry is obviously present in other cities in Cambodia, and you will note similar trends in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. However, for us, the seedy underbelly was so overt and out in the open in central Kampot, with many bars situated on the same streets as hostels, restaurants, and backpacker joints.
It’s clear to spot the bars, with their girls, their women, their neon, their crusties, and their pool tables (don’t ask us why, but there always was one). There is an argument that existing in the open may at least be better for the women than having to operate in secret, but it was bizarre nonetheless. And the men? They walk about unashamedly like they are on holiday, like the rest of us.
A few people we asked locally told us that it wasn't always this way here, but things worsened in the last few years as Sihanoukville, the larger city a couple of hours down the road, was transformed by Chinese influence and Kampot became a new focal point for western sex tourists and various nefarious associated elements.
We are not writing this blog post to deter you from visiting Kampot for a few nights before or after the Koh Rong islands - not in the slightest, and it should be on your Cambodia itinerary - but any travel guide which doesn’t point out how brazen the sex tourists are here would either be lying or incomplete.
So, go to Kampot, have fun, support the ex-pat businesses doing good in the city (including several providing economic opportunities to marginalised women), and work against the normalisation of these exploitative losers who come here for only one reason.
Here are our favourite things to do in and around Kampot, plus advice for travellers on the best places to stay, a few bars and restaurants to make a beeline for (you already know which to avoid!), and advice on inbound / outbound transport connections from elsewhere in Cambodia.
The Best Things To Do in Kampot
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Enjoy The Architecture Clashes
During the age of French rule in Cambodia, Kampot was the biggest port in the country, a hub centre for trade and commerce, and an adminstrative centre for the colonial administration. Sihanoukville down the road eventually displaced its prominent harbour trading position in the 50s, but glimmers of Kampot's gilded age remain standing on its avenues and backstreets.
So, although the Durian Roundabout - yep, there is literally a roundabout with a huge sculpture of the durian fruit in the centre - is likely to pique most people’s curiosity, it’s the mish-mash architecture of the fading pastels of the French colonial and the layers of south-east Asia’ street-style make-do which make a stroll around Kampot so alluring.
Many are in peeling, cracked splendour, whilst several riverfront facades have undergone significant regeneration (be sure to check out The National Bank, The Kampot Provincial Museum and the Red Cross which have been tastefully restored to their former glory).
However, one particular standout is the Wes Anderson moodboard-worthy Hotel Old Cinema, which was built in the 1930s as the "Maison de théâtre le Grandeur" then turned into a cinema in the 50s. Unmissable with its pale yellow art-deco facade, today it stands fully and faithfully renovated as a cool little boutique hotel for travellers. It’s even got a pool that non-guests can spend the day at for a flat-fee of $6 (which can go towards a food or drink bill).
Spend a few hours at La Plantation Pepper Farm
"There's pepper and then there's Cambodia's Kampot pepper." | Time Magazine
Although pepper production in Kampot was around for long time before the French arrived, their influence significantly increased the production, export, and global reputation of the sought after spice from the mid-1800s onward. It's estimated that around 8,000 tons of pepper were harvested annually across the half dozen districts in the provinces of Kampot and Kep at its peak.
However, with the disastrous rise of the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s, the industry collapsed to the point of extinction.
Fast forward to 2020 though, and the reputation and production of Kampot's famous peppercorns is in a positive place. Production is nowhere near historic levels, but small-scale farmers are able to make a living, it is the first Cambodian product to enjoy Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status from the World Trade Organisation (like Champagne, Scotch Beef, and Cornish pasties - the only pepper which is part of the club), and its prestige amongst foodies remains very much intact.
So why should you care?
Well, like many things in our hyper-connected globalised world, we all sort of take pepper for granted. It's just always there, hanging out next to the salt. But, after a visit to a pepper farm in Kampot however, we can guarantee that you will appreciate the complex, sophisticated aromas and flavours of pepper on a whole new level - and we say this as a couple who somehow contrived to spend $38 on six bags of different types of Kampot peppercorns to bring home.
Yes, we're old now and we spend our money on ingredients and recipe books when we travel (however, Emily actually cooked black pepper tofu last week with some of them, and by god it was good, so we are happy with our newfound status).
La Plantation is the best pepper farm to visit - and even if you or your tastebuds have little interest in pepper, a morning or afternoon here should be high on your list of things to do in Kampot.
Plan | Set in a beautiful countryside location about a 40 minute tuk-tuk or motorbike ride along appropriately dusty roads, the family-run social and sustainable agritourism project grows pepper using traditional methods and also runs various educational programmes to support the local rural community as well as artisans.
They run daily tours in French and English, which includes a fun pepper tasting class where you get to sample a dozen or so varieties of peppercorn.
When | 9 am - 5.30 pm daily, and tours and tastings last about 40 minutes. Just turn up and you'll be able to join the next one in your language.
Where | The farm is 20 kms from Kampot, find it here on Google Maps
Cost | Tours are free, but you must cover your own transport there / back. No guarantee that you won’t buy several bags of their well priced Kampot pepper when you realise how expensive it is on Amazon (£11/100 grams) though!
Transport | We visited with our G Adventures group and a four person tuk-tuk there and back was $20 (split between four). We asked a few drivers back in town to get a measure of the cost, and $20 for the journey was the common response, including stops at the Khmer Rouge's man-made Secret Lake and Kampot’s several salt fields (more on those two later) along the way, plus the driver's waiting time at La Plantation.
Alternatively, head out with a rented motorbike or book this option online, which includes air-conditioned transport, lunch at the farm's restaurant, and the pepper tour.
Read more | Kampot pepper, its uniqueness, and its renaissance in this BBC article - The World's Most Prized Pepper?
Experience the Kampot Salt Fields
Given the propensity for salt to exist alongside pepper on millions of tables across the world, it should perhaps come of little surprise that Kampot is also home to several man-made salt fields, formed by the trapping of sea water in dry mud fields.
Whilst they’re definitely not as impressive as the salt flats in Bolivia, it provides an interesting look into the lives of local people, plus an appreciation of how hard they work in extreme temperatures to provide a seasoning which we all take for granted.
We didn’t visit, but there is also apparently a salt museum for those particularly keen on learning a little more about the production. You can find out more about it here.
Where | The salt fields are located about 5 km out of Kampot, on the way to the Secret Lake/Pepper Plantation. Find the exact location here on Google Maps.
When | You are welcome to visit at any point of the day. Only really feasible during the dry season.
Cost | As this is not strictly a tourist attraction, there is no fee for visiting the salt fields. It is important to note that because of this, you will need to be respectful - do not clamber across the fields, remain out of the way of workers and don’t stick cameras in their faces.
Transport | If not visiting the salt fields as part of a tuk tuk tour, the best way to get there is by bicycle around $1 -2 per day from your guesthouse), although be warned that as the road is pretty bad in parts, this may only be suitable for those of reasonable fitness.
Visit the Secret Lake
Kampot’s nearby ‘Secret Lake’ - also known as Brateak Krola Lake - is still shrouded in, well, secrets.
Not quite a lake at all, it is actually a dam built with slave labour during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. And whilst many assume it received its name due to its hidden away position along a dusty road, some sources claim that it is so-called for much more sinister reasons and local rumours abound of a secret mass grave of workers and prisoners hidden beneath its depths.
No bodies have ever been recovered, but fishermen claim to have retrieved human bones with their catch.
So perhaps we wouldn’t really recommend swimming in it.
However, that’s not to say that it isn’t in a beautiful setting, with a number of restaurants and guest houses dotted around its perimeter. Perfect for a lazy day with a couple of bottles of beer.
Where | The lake is located about 14 km east of Kampot. You can find it here on Google Maps.
Transport | As mentioned above, a stop at the lake is usually included in a Kampot Pepper Farm tour, but if you’re keen to spend a few hours there we’d recommend either hiring a tuk tuk that will wait for you, or rent a motorcycle for the day (you could theoretically cycle there, but it’s quite a distance in hot weather!)
Take A Kampot Cooking Class
Given the easy and abundant accessibility to the best pepper in the world, Kampot unsurprisingly offers up several great opportunities to get a lot better at understanding traditional Khmer cuisine:
Kampot Seafood & Pepper | The city centre restaurant offers two cooking classes per day (10 am - 1pm, 3 pm - 6 pm) for $20 per person. Find out more and make a booking here, or in person at restaurant.
La Plantation | The farm also offers a peppery and popular daily cooking class in their outdoor kitchen. Classes run daily at 11 a.m, and can easily be done before or after your tour of the site - just make sure you book your place in the class in advance (you can do that here).
You can also book the 'full day experience at La Plantation' which includes the air-conditioned transport, the cooking class, lunch, pepper tour, and a buffalo tour to the secret lake.
Lucky Kitchen Cooking Class | A countryside cooking class, starting at 10 am with ingredient buying in Kampot market before a tuk-tuk ride out to the countryside cooking class to make three main dishes and one dessert. Find out more here.
Whether you do a cooking class in Kampot or not, we’d also recommend independently visiting the Kampot Market to get some insights into just how much amazing fresh produce this province is responsible for (including durian!).
Take a Day Trip to Kep & Rabbit Island
Whether you choose visit to Rabbit Island* (or Koh Ronsay in the Khmer language) from Kampot will likely depend upon your own Cambodian Itinerary - and whether you have just been to, or will be heading next, to the cluster of idyllic islands off the south west coast.
Personally, having already spent a week on Koh Ring Samloem, and heading to Koh Rong with our G Adventures group next, we didn’t want to sacrifice a day exploring the city and countryside for a short while at the beach.
But that didn’t stop two members of our group!
The island is small, undeveloped and disconnected, with a narrow stretch of main beach, and our the two women loved their time there, but felt that in order to make the most out of it, it would be best to spend a night or two rather than just visit for a day trip from Kampot. There are a number of simple thatch bungalows you can stay at, with some being available to book in advance online.
Another popular day-trip option is Kep. Once a popular retreat for the French colonists, it's by the sea, famous for its pepper crab dishes, and has a national park nearby. It’s also the necessary jumping off point for anyone hoping to go to Rabbit Island! You can read more about Kep and what to do there in this article by the South China Morning Post.
How To Get To Rabbit Island from Kampot | You have two choices here. The cheapest way is to take a tuk tuk from Kampot to Kep (40 minutes) and then a boat from Kep to Rabbit Island ($7-10 per person).
Alternatively, you can join ‘The Crab Shuttle” which has daily departures from Kampot to Keep, and onward to Rabbit Island. The leave at 9 am from the riverside in Kampot (Google Maps) and cost $25 return Kampot-Rabbit Island, or $15 return Kampot-Kep.
*As far as we are aware, no rabbits live there.
Sample Kampot Cider
As a Herefordian lass through and through, there are few things Emily enjoys more than a big old glass of cider. Unfortunately however, it turns out that good cider (and no, Strongbow and Koppaberg are NOT good cider!) has been particularly difficult to source on our travels.
So, when we arrived to Kampot and discovered that there was a local cider, made by an Englishman no less, well, it factored in on our itinerary pretty quickly! It’s not one for those that prefer sweet Scandinavian ciders, but if you’re a fan of super dry, super strong, ‘proper' cider’, we think you’ll enjoy it.
There are a few places in Kampot where you can source the cider, but given that the majority of the bars here cater to the questionable tourists we referred to earlier, we’d recommend heading straight to The Bookish Bar - a French owned and run establishment that just oozes laid-back cool, and has the most exquisite little pussycat. They also host board game nights, have a lovely little artisan shop in the back and, unsurprisingly given the name, have a great book exchange.
Where | The Bookish Bazaar East Old Market Krong Kampot (Google Maps)
When | 9 am - 6 pm every day except Monday
Cost | The cider isn’t cheap when compared to local beer prices (it’s $3.50 a bottle) but at 7.5% strength, you wouldn’t want more than one or two anyway. They also sell surprisingly good wine by the glass.
Lunch at Epic Arts Café
If you're having a bit of a lazy morning or afternoon, or need some downtime and coffee to plan the next stage of your trip, then Epic Café (Google Maps) is the spot. During a spare morning, we went here to escape the heat and enjoy brunch, good wifi, and laid-back atmosphere.
The tasty and extensive veggie-friendly menu here makes it worth the recommendation alone, but the fact that this is actually a social enterprise makes it a win-win for everyone involved. Most of the staff working at the cafe are deaf, and everything is structured to create an inclusive working environment. For example, when you arrive, you will be provided with a tick-sheet menu and pen to mark your order so that all staff can take it. The menu also includes various examples of Khmer sign language which customers are encouraged to use.
The cafe is self-sufficient and funds go other Epic Arts projects, which use the arts 'to bring people with and without disabilities together' - learn more on their website.
Tip | There are also a bunch of massage parlours (legit ones) in the centre of Kampot, including a branch of Seeings Hands Massage. The scheme was set up a number of years ago to train blind or partially sighted Cambodians so that they could learn skills and earn money through massage.
Alternatively, consider visiting Banteay Srey, a beautiful women-only spa on the riverfront that is also a vocational training facility for disadvantaged Cambodian women. They offer massages, beauty treatments, there’s a yoga studio and they even have a vegan cafe!
Read Later | 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Cambodia
Gin o'clock At bARACA
Those of you who have been reading Along Dusty Roads for the last six years will know that we are big on gin.
Hell, it's the reason we created this travel blog and we even got to make some of our own last year.
Therefore, after a dusty day out exploring and phtographing Kampot, stumbling across bARACA's 'gin o'clock' was manna from heaven: $3 Bombay Sapphires, $5 Hendrick’s or Botanist, and refreshing gin-based cocktails for $2.5 (go for the rosemary & cucumber). Even if it didn't have a gin-based happy hour to lure us in though though, bARACA (Google Maps) ) would feature on this list. The design of its space is really cool and kitsch, and their diverse tapas-based evening menu refreshingly different and very veggie-friendly.
Tip | bARACA also has several quirky, boutique rooms - check them out here.
A Sunset Cruise On The Teuk Chhou River
We actually didn't do this whilst in Kampot (blame gin o'clock...), but most of our G Adventures group did on our second night in the city.
With departures each evening, all the cruises follow a similar two-hour route under the bridges, along the river for sunset views on the water and over the Bokor mountains, and then a stop to see the fireflies in the dusk light. Our group CEO told us that the fireflies are nowhere near as abundant as they used to be (or are still claimed to be by boat tours), but our group did see a few at least.
Plan | You can find various Kampot sunset cruise companies along the riverfront, south of the fish market (Google Maps). The cruises depart daily between 5 - 5.30 pm, and you can simply turn up and purchase your ticket for $5 per person (which usually includes 1-2 free beers!). We unfortunately can't share a personal recommendation on which boat company to go for - do let us know in the comments if you go with a particularly good one!
All the boats have bars (some serve food) and you should be able to tell which boats are catering to a younger, more salubrious crowd. Some boats are really large, and most have rooftop seating where you can chill out with a cold beer for the sunset.
Our group told us that bringing your bug spray and a jumper aren't a bad idea as it becomes a bit chilly once the sun goes down.
If you want to enjoy the sunset, but don’t want to do it by boat, then just head to the riverfront or one of the bars there with an upper floor and a happy hour.
Tip | If you’re keen to get out on the water, but under your own steam and in a more tranquil setting, we recommend looking into ‘The Green Cathedral’, a beautiful stretch of the Praek Tuek Chhu River around 5 km north of Kampot, so named because of the canopy of lush green foliage which covers the waterway.
In order to access it, simply make your way to Champa Lodge (about 20 minutes away via motorbike or tuk tuk) where you can hire or the gear. The staff will point you in the right direction with your kayak and you can expect the loop to take around 1-2 hours to complete without stops.
Explore The Countryside & Bokor National Park
A popular option for travellers is to rent a motorbike in Kampot and head out independently for a day or two to explore the surrounding countryside, head over the bridge to Fish Island, visit a pepper farm, go eat crab in Kep, or simply to find your own dusty road.
The Bokor Hill Station, 40 kms from Kampot and set within the Bokor National Park is accessible after a switchback-ridden ride up the N32 road, is often touted as a great day out for the more adventurous. However, recent development has seen the decaying, abandoned building upgraded and so not as unique a find…but the views and winding ride into the greenery may still be worth it. Read more about its origins as a retreat for French troops in need of respite from the tropics, its subsequent delcline, and potential evolution, in this Atlas Obscura article.
Within the centre of Kampot you'll find various companies renting motorbikes for $5-7 per day. If we had been travelling this leg of our Cambodia itinerary differently, we would definitely have taken a day to head out and explore this way. However, please remember to only rent a motorbike if you have the appropriate travel insurance, you meet its requirements in the policy for riding motorbikes, you know how to ride a bike, and wear your goddamn helmet.
Tip | If you’re keen to escape the heat and explore Bokor NP but aren’t so comfortable on the back of a motorbike, it’s possible to hire a taxi for the day to make the journey (a tuk tuk will likely not manage the roads).
Tacos At Gringo Loco
We try to make sure that we eat at a good balance of local restaurants and those run by foreigners everywhere we travel, but we broke that rule in Kampot as soon as we saw the menu for Gringo Loco.
Give us homemade hot sauce, give us homemade guac, give us all the tacos.
Run by a lovely guy from Toronto, it's got damn good Mexican options for carnivores and veggies, and is a great shout for dinner with a cold beer after a dusty day spent exploring in the sunshine. We recommend that everyone has the guacamole, whilst hot-sauce aficionados will love the homemade batches here (but your hostel bathroom may not enjoy it so much the next day).
Plan | Closed Tuesdays, but open 12.00 - 9.30 pm every other day. The restaurant is a couple of blocks from the river (Google Maps)
Insider Tip | If you want to escape the other gringos, then take a walk along the neon bridge at night to the other side of Kampot to ‘Break Romdurl II. Bun, our G Adventures CEO, took our group there for local beers and food in the evening and it was very much an authentic locals night spot!
Do note that several hostess clubs and bars can also be found around here - so try not to get too angry…
Where To Stay in Kampot
There are a few excellent backpacker hostels in the centre of Kampot, as well as options in more secluded locations by the riverside. All of them have dorms as well as privates - expect to pay $15 - $20 for a private double, and $5-10 for a dorm bed. For couples, there are also three really cool boutique guesthouses in the city centre!
Based on our own experiences and research, we have personally curated the below list so you can know exactly where to stay in Kampot!
Hostels
Kool Kampot | About 10 minutes walk from the centre of Kampot, this riverside hostel has a rooftop bar, dorms and privates. Previous guests state that It’s very clean, comfortable and quiet with good facilities. It would suit a traveller seeking a relaxing riverside experience but still within close proximity to the the city. Check availability and prices here.
Monkey Republic | The home of the best dorm beds in Kampot, with privacy curtains, security lockers, power outlets, reading lights and air-con. They also have private rooms, an on-site restaurant and bar with good veggie/vegan menu and drinks offers. Check availability and prices on Hostelworld and booking.com.
Boutique Guest Houses / hotels
BARACA Guesthouse | Yep, the one that also has a bar that sells incredible G&Ts! Cool rooms with stylish touches, minimalist design and super helpful owners. From $32 - $50 USD per night. Check availability and prices here.
Hotel Old Cinema | As we mentioned at the beginning of this article, this restored art-deco building is the best option for traveller couples looking to loosen the purse strings a wee bit, chill out for a day or two, and stay somewhere memorable. Check availability and prices here.
Candy Pepper | Proving that artisan guest house and rum bar truly go hand in hand, this quirky and cool accommodation option in the centre of Kampot is just so much fun! They only have three rooms so this is definitely one worth booking in advance. Check availability and prices here.
Pippali | A boutique hotel about 10-15 minutes walk from centre of Kampot. It has a modern, stylish design with facilities built to a high standard and a large outdoor pool. Check availability and prices here.
If you’re looking for a more traditional guest house, Vibola comes highly recommended.
Outside of Kampot
Remember that there are a number of chilled out riverside hostels & resorts around Kampot, so you can also opt to stay outside the city centre. If you want to be in the quietness of the countryside, be able to swim and kayak down the rivers, and only pop in and out of Kampot itself, these are worth looking into.
How To Get To Kampot - And Your Next Stop
When establishing your own Cambodia itinerary, we would recommend that you visit Kampot either on your way to the beautifu Koh Kong islands off the south west coast of Cambodia, or on your way back from them and onward Phnom Penh.
Bus from Phnom Penh to Kampot
There are regular buses - with multiple companies - from Phnom Penh to Kampot, taking around 4 hours (148 kms). Average cost per person is $6, and you can check times and prices here.
Bus from Sihanoukville to Kampot
There are regular buses - with multiple companies - from Sihanoukville to Kampot, with an average journey time of 2.5 - 3hours (102 kms). The average ticket price is $5 per person. Check times and prices here.
For all buses in Cambodia, the best place to find specific daily departure times for your dates and book tickets in advance online (which is necessary on this popular route) is on the BookMeBus website.
If you're planning on travelling onward to the Koh Rong Islands, then we recommend you read this post which breaks down the specific routes, transport options, and costs.
Make sure to check out some of our destination guides linked to within the post for more inspiration and information on each place, whilst we also recommend everyone reads 23 Things to Know Before You Visit Cambodia so you can pack, plan, and prepare properly for your own adventure.
And remember, if you would prefer to travel in Cambodia with a small-group of likeminded travellers, an English-speaking guide, private bus transport, and a route which brings you to everywhere on this Cambodia itinerary except Koh Rong Sanloem (but does go to a small resort on Koh Rong), we recommend this 14 day Ultimate Cambodian Adventure tour by G Adventures.
