Wondering what are the best things to do in Cardigan? We’ve got you covered in this travel guide to Mid Wales’ coolest town.
The wonderful thing about serendipity is that it lets you build meaningful connections between seemingly disparate, distant moments in your life.
A random purchase in Shoreditch of a book about email newsletters.
Reading about a place where they make designer jeans in Wales.
The makeshift bookshelf next to our laptop growing with inspiring works by a company called 'Do'.
Moving to Shrewsbury.
A long lockdown night putting pins in a Google Map, dreaming of places we could go once the roads in Britain were once again open.
Dreaming of the waves.
The little town of Cardigan, on a river and by the sea, would likely never have registered too much on our radar if we hadn't bought that book in 2017 by David Hieatt (which also led directly to the creation of our monthly newsletter).
Yet, fast forward from those heady days when you could stand cheek by jowl in a sweaty pub to the bleakness of January 2021's confinement, and it would seem that fate had played some role in joining the dots together: all roads were leading west to Mid Wales for our first adventure after so long at home.
And, if you're going go Mid Wales, then you simply have to go to Cardigan.
A thriving town of 4,000 or so, it punches well above its weight. Sandwiched between two of the best beaches Wales has to offer, it’s home to artists and artisans, creatives and mavericks, independent shops and splashes of a Wes Anderson colour palette, Cardigan’s ideal as a base to explore the region independently, as well as a very pleasant day trip in and of itself.
It doesn’t just buck trends; it starts them.
In this short travel guide, we've shared the best things to do in Cardigan, tips on where to eat and stay, plus advice on how to get here (hint: it isn’t as easy as you may think).
What's in a Name?
Before getting started, we thought we'd clear up a little confusion we had before visiting.
Cardigan is called Aberteifi in Welsh, meaning 'at the mouth of the rivier Teifi'. You'll see signs and maps with both.
The town is also part of Cardigan Bay - the largest bay in Wales - and the county of Ceredigion; this runs along a chunk of the west coast and incorporates towns like Aberaeron and Aberystwyth as well as some fantastic beaches and countryside.
So, by visiting the town of Cardigan, you'll also be visiting Cardigan Bay and Ceredigion , but only a very small part of each!
And no, cardigans are not from here.
Wonderful Things to Do in Cardigan
Coffee at Crwst
The first port of call should be to drop everything and head to Crwst (pronounced a little like 'Crust' in English).
In a wonderful light-filled corner space just off the high street, it has the sort of menu and vibe you'd expect for a cool, modern coffee shop. What makes it extra special though is its committed focus on using and promoting Welsh produce and producers on its shelfs and in its menu (which is very veggie-friendly).
Perfect for your morning coffee, a decadent brunch, and a place to hang out. If you're feeling indulgent, we implore you to have their vegan glazed doughnut (we still dream about it) and anything with their Pembrokeshire Sea Salted Caramel sauced drizzled over.
Where | Priory Street (Google Maps)
When | 9 am - 2 pm, 7 days a week.
Alt | Food For Thought (Google Maps)
Craft at Make It In Wales
Situated on the colourful and lively high street (which really bucks the trend in comparison to that of the fate of many larger, better connected towns in Britain), Stwdio 3 is a cafe at the back and shop at the front, trading in the wares of local artists and jewellers.
However, it's the workshops held there under the banner of 'Make It in Wales' which make it stand out. Run by local tutors, the one or half-day courses focus on crafts as diverse as stained glass, print-making, weaving, silver ring making, macrame, traditional Welsh quilting, felting, upholstery, block printing...the list goes on.
Where | 3 High Street (Google Maps)
When | Stwdio 3 is open 10 am - 4 pm, Monday to Saturday. For course schedules and bookings, you're best to visit the Make It In Wales website here.
Make Your Way To Mwnt
Although Cardigan is on the water and a stone’s throw from the sea, it does not have the clear character of a beach town or port like Aberaeon, Aberystwyth, and New Quay.
But don't let that put you off.
A 20-minute drive or pleasant walk from Cardigan lies Mwnt, a blissfully remote and picturesque sandy beach which perfectly encapsulates the wonder of the Welsh coastline.
Don’t miss it.
We've shared all the essentials in this post: How To Visit Mwnt Beach.
Eat at El Salsa
We stumbled across El Salsa due to Andrew bringing us to the wrong car park, but that turned out to be a very happy mistake.
We had very much had our fill of fish & chips by this stage (the last day of our Mid Wales road trip), so fast forward to that evening and you'd find two very happy travel bloggers munching away on jackfruit tinga tacos in the fading sunshine.
Decent-looking Mexican street food by the Welsh coast wasn't exactly what we had in mind...
After selling from her food truck around Wales for six years, El Salsa's founder set up a permanent base here in Cardigan. Mexican is one of our favourite cuisines, so we're quite fussy buggers if it's done badly...thankfully we'd return to El Salsa again and again if we could.
The menu has plenty options to satisfy veggies and carnivores alike (all meat is sourced locally), and portions are generous.
Where | In the 4CG Carpark (Google Maps) - don't let that put you off, it's a cool spot. If you arrive by car to eat, you do need to pay to park though.
When | 4.30 - 8.30 pm, Thursday - Saturday (at time of writing, April 2021)
Alt | Keep an eye out for Tymor, a new pop-up restaurant focussing on seasonal and locally sourced plant-based dishes (they’re only open on Saturdays from 1 pm - 8.30 pm at the moment).
Shop at The Blue Boat & Custom House
We've included these two charming shops together given their proximity and excellent shared emphasis on showcasing beautiful Welsh makers, clothing, and houseware.
If you're in the market for locally made wool socks or gorgeous (well-priced) blankets, then you'll find them here alongside plenty of other unique finds.
At Blue Boat, be sure to head upstairs for a peek at Jenny' s open art studio and keep an eye out for her handsome white cat!
Where | Custom House is on 44 St Mary Street, and The Blue Boat (Google Maps) is just a little further down in the yellow building.
When | Both are closed on Sundays, otherwise it's 10 am - 4 pm for Blue Boat and half an hour later on each for Custom.
Walk The Welsh Coast
The beauty of a trip to the Welsh coast is that you're really never far from a great walking trail, and there are two beginning less than a mile from Cardigan.
Both the Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail (heading south) and Ceredigion coast path (going north) form part of the is 870 mile-long Wales Coast Path, the first to follow the coast of an entire country.
Packing walking boots is therefore a very good idea.
The Ceredigion coast path technically starts from the bridge and the otter statue, but you can simply join it from the Quay Street parking area (it's signposted, by Shampan’s Indian restaurant on a boat).
For the Pembrokeshire path, it's on the road to Poppit Sands by the Ferry Inn (Google Maps), about 35 minutes walk from town.
Keep an eye out for seals and dolphins (in the sea, not walking the trail...)
In the mood for something a little more adventurous? Cardigan Bay Active offers up a range of action experiences like sea kayaking, canoe trips, white water tubing, bushcraft, and coasteering (something we’d love to do) - find out more on their website.
Old Forge Crafts
Tucked away in an old blacksmith's, this is a relatively new addition to Cardigan's collection of shops focussed on local crafts and products, as well as sustainability.
Former landscape gardener Jason has turned his attention to wood turning, creating gorgeous wooden food bowls from trees sourced within a 15-mile area.
Each takes three months to create in the sawdust filled workshop next door, and would be a beautiful as well as practical addition to any home or travel bag.
On the rest of the shelves, you'll also find ethically sourced and handmade items from local artists.
Where | The Strand (Google Maps)
When | Tuesday - Saturday, 9 am to 4.30 pm. Closed Mondays and Sundays.
Sittin’ On The Dock of The Quay
Cardigan was an important trading port in Wales for centuries but, like many old British port towns with a rich maritime heritages, these are now a distant memory. There remain vestiges of this dotted around though and the water continues to shape life here for some: the pretty boats bobbing on the Teifi, the local fishmongers and Fishermans Rest Cafe.
When shopping, eating, making, or walking has got a little bit much, we recommend you head down from the high street toward the river Teifi to sit by the renovated Prince Charles Quay. There's a pleasant seating area, with the castle ramparts behind, Cardigan Bridge on your left, and the river and 18th century warehouses opposite.
Inscribed on the granite, is this beautiful englyn (a traditional Welsh and Cornish short poem form, according to Wikipedia) by Ceri Wyn Jones, who resides in town:
Y Cei
Fel glaw hallt, fel awel glyd, fel hiraeth,
Fel y wawr a’r machlud,
Mae ffarwel a dychwelyd
Yn yr afon hon ynghyd.
This translates as:
The Quay
Like salt rain, like a sheltered breeze, like "hiraeth",
like sunrise and sunset,
bidding farewell and returning
are joined together in this river.
The highly-rated Pizzatipi (Google Maps), run by four brothers and found under the arch, is also here on the riverbank. Set in a cool rustic, outdoor camp, we had hoped to visit ourselves but, unfortunately their takeaway slots were fully booked and there were no walk-ins, so we can't vouch for how good their stonebaked pizza actually is (sorry!).
The Grosvenor pub and its outdoor tables are also a good shout if you want to enjoy a sundowner with a view of the water.
If you fancy a scenic river trip in a beautifully crafted boat, then take a look at Dai Crabs Boat. It's £15 for adults, £5 for children, and weather dependent. He departs from the jetty by the Quay.
Tip // If you’d like to keep one eye on the history of Cardigan as you walk around town, then take a look at the ‘Cardigan Trail’
Antiquing & A Rummage
If it isn't clear by now that we think you should come to Cardigan with 1. an appetite and 2. some spare room in the boot, then this should convince you…
The interesting thing about going to small towns or places with a good amount of independent shops, is that it brings you directly to some of the small-batch creators and owners who have an eye or special interest and knowledge...the antithesis of simply going from chain to chain, or franchise to franchise.
That's why Cardigan's clear emphasis on independent and local craftmanship and creators was such a breath of fresh air; it also represented a far greater proportion of businesses here than in larger, less remote places.
We recommend you take your time to linger, and pop in at the following:
The Cardigan Antiques Centre | A treasure trove across three floors, we would have spent far too much money here if we had the money. The owner is a chatty, engaging guy too, and we did come away with a pristine old newspaper (still regret not buying the bowler hat + stand though).
Open 10 am - 4 pm, closed Wednesdays and Sundays. Find it here on Google Maps.
Reworx | A couple creating quirky, bespoke upcycled furniture and collectibles, aided by their adorable collie. It’s easy to miss if you don’t know where it is: find it down the stairs at the end of the ‘Shopping Arcade’ (via the gentleman doing cool things with wood), or from Market Lane.
Open 10.30 am - 6 pm, closed Sundays - Google Maps.
CCM House Clearance Store | Right by El Salsa, it’s an Aladdin’s cave perfect for a rummage.
Open 9 am - 5 pm Monday to Saturday , 10 am - 2 pom Sundays - Google Maps.
Bargain Hunt | The Eco Shop (Google Maps) is focussed on absolutely nothing going to waste, whilst the New Life Community Project (Google Maps) is a not for profit organisation that works to encourage recycling within the community and sells second-hand furniture.
Pop Over To Pembrokeshire & Poppit Sands
Although this particular Welsh road trip was strictly limited to Cardigan Bay, our desire to visit Poppit Sands accidentally brought us into Pembrokeshire (it was only a lifebuoy on the beach which gave the game away).
Nevertheless, you'd be mad not to walk or drive out toward this wide expands of flat, sandy beach if you’re in Cardigan.
If making a day of it, stop off in St Dogmaels and have a drink with a view at The Ferry Inn (Google Maps) or further down at the Teifi Waterside Hotel (Google Maps)
Read more on how to visit and facilities in our guide to the best Cardigan Bay beaches.
Visit Cardigan Castle
Reopened in 2015 following a £12 million restoration project (and local campaign to save it), the medieval castle is now a cultural and tourist centrepiece of the town.
Alas, we were not able to visit as several tourist sites had not yet reopened under government guidelines.
Continually occupied over the last 900 years, its appearance reflects how it has been shaped and adapted in different eras (a Georgian mansion, for example, is part of it). It also acts as space for pop-up exhibitions and cultural events, whilst its two acre Grade II listed gardens sound pleasant.
Tickets | £6 for adults, £3 for children, of £15 for a family ticket - available at the entrance
Where | Green Street, find the entrance here.
When | 10 am -4 pm, seven days a week (limited hours at present)
Tip // Head across the river to get the best perspective on the castle. If you’d like a guided tour, they’re at 2 pm, but it’s advised to ring ahead to check availability. Find out more here. There’s also the contemporary 1176 cafe and restaurant for lunch or drinks (we didn’t visit), whilst the Castle also offers up this luxury accommodation.
Cardigan Island Coastal Farm Park
It unfortunately wasn’t yet open for the season when we were in town, but we simply had to include the Cardigan Island Coastal Farm Park.
After all, any place where you get to responsibly say hello to animals in a beautiful farm setting gets a big tick from us. There’s goats, sheep, pigs, ponies, hens, cows, llamas and donkeys - and you can buy a bag of animal food at the entrance too to feed them!
Run by a 6th generation local farming family, there’s also a clifftop nature walk offering up the chance to spot seals and dolphins; it’s a 4-mile drive from town.
Families or nature lovers should also take a look at a visit to the nearby Welsh Wildlife Centre, set in the Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve.
Cardigan Guildhall Market
Built in the 1850s, this gothic indoor market (Google Maps) is a pretty cool building and worth popping into as it’s got various stallholders selling all manner of things - from antiques and flowers to military apparel and model Welsh buses.
However, the main reason we’re listing it here is because of Ahmed’s amazing Syrian food stall - Batak Traditional Food. We left with containers of fried kibba, baba ganoush, houmous, falafels, and vegetarian yalanji; each and every delicious bite was savoured.
Oh, and that jeans company we mentioned at the start? They’re called Hiut Denim, and we recommend taking a look at this short doc - The Jean Makers - to get a flavour of their story and place in Cardigan’s.
Where To Stay in Cardigan
Staying in Cardigan is a good choice if you’d like a base with amenities from which to explore Cardigan Bay and a bit of Pembrokeshire by car on weekend or longer break. Accommodation options in town include:
Cardigan Castle | This highly-rated accommodation in the Castle grounds formed part of the restoration project, and includes simple double rooms to a 4-bedroom house. Find out more or check availability here.
Llety Teifi Guesthouse | A surprisingly large family-run guesthouse in an unmissable pink Georgian town house, it has 10 en-suite rooms to choose from. Find out more or check availability here.
The Rooms | They’re in the same 18th-century building, so we’ve put these three self-catering studio apartments together for you. Ideal for couples, The Garden Room is the pick of the bunch, followed by The Attic Room and The Art Room.
Brynhyfryd Guest House | A simple, traditional guesthouse in Cardigan with good reviews from previous guests. Find out more or check availability here.
Maenayron | For large families or groups, this townhouse is a great option. It sleeps 8, has on-site parking, and has stylish design touches throughout - find out more here.
Across the river, you’ll also find a selection of holiday homes and cottages in pretty St Dogmaels, including the Grand Designs Earth Eco House See more options here on Airbnb.
Alternatively, if you’d rather stay somewhere a little further afield from the town, you’ll find several popular campsites and glampsites nearby, including the super cool Fforest and more basic Cardigan Island Coastal Farm Park.
And, as a wildcard outside of town, this stunning cottage by the sea and Poppit Sands is an absolute gem.
How To Get To Cardigan
There is no train station in Cardigan (something which surprised us), so the easiest way to arrive us by car. If travelling with public transport, there are however some options.
By Public Transport
1. Take a train to Aberystwyth (which may involve a change in Birmingham or Shrewsbury). From there, you can take a bus service south to Cardigan (£6.70, 1.5 - 2 hours).
2. Take a train to Haverfordwest in Pembrokeshire, then a bus to Cardigan (£6.70, 1.5 hours). You could also alight at Carmarthen and take a bus from there (£5.10, 1.5 hours).
There are appears to be an hourly departure for all of the above buses, but we highly recommend verifying timetables and connections on Traveline.Cymru before you firm up plans or leave. Richards Bros also run some of the bus routes, so it’s worth taking a look at their website too.
Unless you're coming from elsewhere in Wales or the west of England, then it's going to be a 4+ hour trip at a minimum with the train and bus combo.
By Car
It's very straightforward if you're on the A487 from elsewhere in Wales, or joining up to that road from England. We'd recommend avoiding the narrow back roads for the journey into Cardigan, which are incredibly scenic but will add quite a bit of time on.
In terms of car parks in Cardigan, the best bets are as follows and all are either in the town centre or just a couple of minute’s walk from it.
Quay Street Car Park | The best as it’s the largest and close to everything. Prices are £1.50 / 1 hour, £1.80 / 2 hours, £2.60 / 3 hours, £2.80 / 24 hours, £9.60 / week. Caravans and heavy vehicles welcome, but no overnight camping. Note that it’s prone to flooding if the river’s up
Greenfield Square Car Park | Also a large-ish one, with the same prices as above (no 24-hour or weekly rate). Caravans and heavy vehicles not permitted.
4CG Car Park | The little one by El Salsa, it doesn’t have many spaces but is cheap and central. 60 p / 1 hour, £1 / 2 hours, £1.50 / 3 hours, or just 60 p for overnight parking (5.30 pm - 8.30 am).
Two other options are Williams Terrace Car Park and Gloster Row Long Stay Car Park
