Heading to Aberystwyth for a day at the seaside, weekend away, or as part of your Cardigan Bay road trip? Our guide has got you covered.
Arriving in a new places with few or low expectations can sometimes be so a sure-fire way to actually enjoy it.
One half of Along Dusty Roads didn't know much about Aberystwyth, the largest town in Mid Wales, whilst the other only had distant memories of a childhood school trip gone awry.
Pair that unambitious baseline with beautiful early summer sunshine and a thirst for the salty sea after a long winter lockdown, and you have the recipe for a joyful reappraisal of what the locals call 'Aber'.
Of course, as with any British seaside town, it does tremendously help when the sun is out and the atmosphere has a similarly cheery disposition: hardy souls swimming in the water, groups of sunbathers and stone skimmers, the scent of fresh fish and chips wafting hither and thither on the promenade.
Would we have left Aberystwyth the same impression on a soggy Saturday in September? Probably not...but then, we wouldn't necessarily plan to visit here if the forecast is bleak.
However, if you’re currently looking for somewhere to enjoy a day at the beach, Aber should absolutely be on the list.
In the post, we'll share everything we think you need to know to make the very most of your visit to this university town by the sea, from the best things to do in Aberystwyth, recommendations on where to eat and where to stay, and tips on transport connections.
The Best Things to Do in Aberystwyth
Indulge at Ridiculously Rich by Alana
We found Aberystwyth to be a little lacking in decent coffee shops (we tried really hard, promise. - let us know in the comments if we missed any), but this one on South Beach caught our eye by chance.
A relatively new addition to town, only opening in 2020, this is part of the local Apprentice winner's bakery empire, and focusses on incredibly indulgent bakes and desserts; a sweet tooth shall be sated here.
There’s also decent coffee and lunch specials and a small deck with views over the marina on one side and South Beach on the other if you want to ‘sit-in ‘outside, or grab something as a takeaway and head over to the pebbles.
Whilst you’re on this side of town, take a walk to the end of the pier for a look at the photogenic green and white lighthouse that isn’t a lighthouse.
Where | South Marine Terrace or here on Google Maps
When | 9 am - 6 pm Monday to Thursday, until 7 pm on Friday and Saturday, and 10 am - 6 pm on Sunday.
A Walk Along The Promenade
The quintessential day out in Aberystwyth will always involve a stroll along its promenade with the waves on one side, stacks of colourful terraced houses on the other and, hopefully, the sunshine on your face and an ice-cream in hand.
Framed by clean white metal lines and renovated touches of yesteryear’s summer holidays, it provides the picture-postcard stage for day trippers, locals, and holidaymakers to gather, relax, and breathe in the sea air.
You’ll spend a bit of time going up and down here whatever your plans, but we recommend you simply walk along it from the pier to Constitution Hill at least once!
Kicking The Bar | Hang out at the northern end of the promenade for only a few minutes, and you’ll see several people gently knock the scuffed white metal railing with their foot. The local tradition is known as ‘kicking the bar’ for, well, self explanatory reasons…but the reason for doing it is slightly less obvious and open to debate. One story goes that it was done my male college students to attract the attention of female students living nearby, another pins it to students being encouraged to walk the length of the promenade to ‘kick the bar’ for exercise, and one puts the bar’s ‘lucky’ reputation down to it saving the life of a young boy at danger of being swept out to sea.
Regardless, visitors are best advised to also kick the bar for luck. Just in case.
A Day At An Aberystwyth Beach
Oh we do love to be beside the seaside...
The main draw of Aber is undeniably its credentials as an old school seaside resort, and it’s arguably the most accessible from England for those looking to head west for a day trip or short break.
You have two lovely crescent beaches to choose from, each a 10-minute walk from the train station:
North Beach (Traeth y Gogledd)
The most popular option, only a minute’s walk from the town centre and backed by several food spots and the lively promenade. With the retro Royal Pier Arcade on the left and the cracks and crags of Constitution Hill forming a natural barrier on the right, this long dark sand and shingle beach is the place where most day trippers and groups of friends and family will lay their towels in summer.
The nearest public toilet is here.
South Beach (Traeth y De)
The pebbly beach is definitely quieter than North (although in the evening time it looked like the main campfire social spot for loads and loads of locals), but that doesn’t mean it should be avoided. With ample parking behind it, food and drinks from The Hut, and public toilets nearby, you can set yourself up here for a few hours with no worries at all. Cool views of the castle and pastel houses provide the backdrop!
As we’ve mentioned elsewhere, it's prominently displayed at most beaches in the region that dogs are not allowed on certain sections and/or banned during summer months. This a legal bye-law, common across many Welsh beaches.
From 1st May to 30th September, no dogs (except guide dogs) are allowed on the right hand side section of South Beach, or from the area just to the left of the bandstand all the way down to Constitution Hill on North Beach. Pooches are still permitted on the other areas of the beach, and can access all of the beach outwith May to September.
Tip // The tides make quite a big difference here, with various concrete breakers and a few wooden poles being obscured during high tide on North Beach. If swimming during then, just be aware that you may not see everything beneath!
Read // 9 Wonderful Cardigan Bay Beaches
Books, Art, And A Wander Around The Town Centre
It’s easy to forget that Aberystwyth really is quite small.
The two long beaches, the Castle, and the fact that it’s got a well-known, historic university mask that the resident population is only around 18,000; chuck in another 10,000 or so when the students are here, and it’s still not much.
Though as pleasant as many other medium-sized British towns, with a decent balance of independent shops and high-street chains, the compact centre and its attractions aren’t really what people come to Aber to enjoy.
That being said, if the weather’s not great or you’d like a mooch around, we recommend a wander down Y Ffynnon Haearn / Chalybeate St (Google Maps), pop your head into Coastal Vintage Antiques, Ystwyth Books, and the teeny covered Market Hall in St James’s Square.
That student population is also a longtime character in the Aberystwyth story. The town has played a significant role as an educational location in Wales in the last two centuries, with the first University of Wales established here in 1872. From these strong academic roots, it’s perhaps not a surprise that the town was selected over Cardiff in 1905 as the home for The National Library of Wales, which is a hub for cultural events and exhibitions as well as home to 6+ million books and periodicals. The impressively imposing neo-classical building - all right angles and symmetry - is however a bit of a walk from the town centre (about 20 minutes) - find it here on Google Maps.
The Aberystwyth Arts Centre is also nearby on the university campus, so it makes sense to pair together if you’re heading out this way to pair them together.
Storm the Old Castle
You're never too far from a castle in Wales, but the photogenic grey stone remains of Aberystwyth’s offering has more life to it than some other ruins.
Strategically situated on a jutting shark’s fin hill, it was actually built by King Edward I to bolster his campaign against the Welsh. It suffered through most of its early years, with sieges, sackings, burnings, and frequently trading hands between the two warring nations. It was made a royal mint in 1637, which essentially painted a large target on the Castle for those opposed to Charles I (that is, the Roundheads of the English Civil War).
Oliver Cromwell had the castle slighted (deliberately damaged) in 1649, though it’s said that it has been slowly decaying for centuries due to proximity to the sea.
Thankfully the story doesn’t end quite there.
Instead of simply being a static, relatively interesting historical monument, Aberystwyth Castle has taken on a new life as a unique public park and community space. Families sit on the grass next to the foundations of a medieval wall, old couples sit on benches and hold hands beneath the remnants of a tower that’s some 800 or so years old, and visitors like us marvel at the setting and the windswept views available (including glimpses of Snowdon in the distance).
A delight.
Where | Between North and South beach, and accessible from various points in town. Find it here on Google Maps.
When | It’s free to access, and (we believe) always open.
Tip // Aberystwyth’s Old College (Google Maps) is also nearby and worth your attention, even if it’s just from the outside. A Grade I listed building built in 1795, it gone through various incarnations - house, hotel, the original site of the university - and its fairytale towers and spires have led to inevitable Hogwarts references in more recent years. As you walk from North to South beach along the seafront, you’ll see the Old College, but you should head round to King Street to fully appreciate its its architecture.
Take in The View From Constitution Hill
Searching for the best views of Aberystwyth? Look no further than Constitution Hill.
With its interplay of shadow, crag, and yellowing gorse, it’s easy on the eye in its own right, offering a beguiling bookend to North beach and the promenade (and a stunning, more remote section of beach to spend the day in).
However, not venturing up on foot or by funicular (more on that later) would see you miss out on a glorious snapshot of Aber down below.
There are two ways to get to the top of Constitution Hill (Craig-Glais in Welsh, and sometimes just shortened ‘Consti’):
Option One
1. Hop on the Aberystwyth Cliff Railway, the longest funicular electric cliff railway in Britain! It has been bringing visitors to the summit since 1896, part of the efforts of the ‘Aberystwyth Improvement Company’ to make the hill a sit of tourist curiosity since the late 19th century.
The railway is open from 10 am to 5 pm, 7 days a week from April to October, and may be open until 6 pm in high season. Tickets are £4.50 (single) / £5.50 (return) for an adult, £3 / £4 for children, but there’s no need to book in advance. Simply arrive at the ticket office (Google Maps), buy your ticket, and hop on the next one in a few minutes time - find out more here.
Unfortunately, it was still not open for visitors during our stay in Aberystwyth, but it’s something we’d expect kids will really enjoy and it’s great to support these quirky pieces of history.
Option Two
A the end of the promenade on North Beach, walk up the steps on the right hand side to here where you’ll see the dusty path on the left hand side - it shouldn’t take longer than 25 minutes to get to the top. There are a few faint trails that will take you elsewhere, so just stick to the right hand side if unsure, which will eventually take you over a small wooden bridge.
You can do the walk at any time of day, but we’d recommend saving it for golden hour or sunset if you have the time and inclination; vehicles cannot access the top.
At the top of Constitution Hill, there’s a few additional surprises in store - a wonderfully Wes Anderson-esque cluster of retro red and white buildings, FRISBEE GOLF!, a cafe, bowling, and one of the world’s largest Camera Obscuras offering up a bird’s eye views of 1,000 square miles.
Tip // Worked up a thirst? Pop in to The Glengower on the way down, one of few pubs on the seafront with outside seating to enjoy the sunset. You've earned it!
Walk The Wales Coast Path
Stretching an incredible 870 miles, the Wales Coast Path is the first trail in the world to follow a country’s entire coastline. During our Mid Wales road trip, we walked various sections and it’s a terrific, accessible part of and Welsh coastal escape. Therefore, if you’re in Aberystwyth for more than a day, it makes total sense to tag on an enjoyable ramble north or south along a partial section, or a more strenuous day hike if you come suitably prepared.
The routes and start points are:
Aberystwyth to Clarach Bay
This short and manageable section (1.7 miles / 2.7 km) makes sense to cover if you’re already going up Constitution Hill, and tagging it on offers even more lovely views of the coast. You could continue northward to Borth (3.2 mils / 5.1 km from Clarach), but that’s a more challenging section with several climbs.
Further details on the route can be found here, or take a look at this 6.8 km Aberystwyth loop route instead.
Aberystwyth to Llanrhystud
A challenging isolated stretch with steep slopes and relatively challenging ascents as soon as you leave Aberystwyth and throughout, it will bring you over the Ystwyth river and on to Tanybwlch beach. It’s 10 miles / 16km to the village of Llanrhystud and its own pretty pebbled beach, so only doing a shortened ‘there and back’ version may be possible.
The path continues on to Aberaeron, but that’s 27km from start to finish (though you can jump on the regular T5 bus back).
The start point is near the marina, and further details on the hike can be found here.
Tapas at Ultracomida
Arriving at the British coast in summer makes fish & chips an almost mandatory option for most, but there are a few good alternatives to consider for lunch or dinner during your time in Aberystwyth.
Ultracomida, a small delicatessen and treasure trove of foodie treats from Spain, is our pick of the bunch. They have a tapas & wine bar hidden away at the back of the deli, whilst you can also takeaway a selection of snacks and sandwiches (their tortilla española is one of the best we’ve ever tasted the way).
Where | 31 Pier Street, here on Google Maps.
When | 10 am - 4 pm Monday to Saturday.
Alt // A few other food options to make time for are Medina (fresh and interesting Mediterranean lunches and dinners, with excellent breakfast options), Dragonfly Bistro (cute hidden away vegetarian bistro in St James’ Square), and Agnelli's Trattoria & Deli (intimate and authentic place run by an Italian couple). Mama Fay’s, serving up Caribbean dishes, also caught our eye and is highly-rated.
Sunset, Starlings & Chips (oh my!)
We got lucky during our visit to Aberystwyth - the sun shone, the wind was absent, it was pleasantly busy at the beach rather than overrun - but we have one regret.
Those damn birds.
Witnessing a murmuration of starlings (when thousands of them flock together in the sky to create stunning shapes and patterns) is a dream for both of us, and we were informed by not one but two friendly locals to keep an eye out for this by the pier. Excited, we changed our plans and parked ourselves at benches in prime position facing the pier, and awaited dusk to fall.
And waited.
And waited.
We waited far longer than we should have before admitting to ourselves, the starlings really should have arrived by now. A quick Google search confirmed our fears: murmurations only happen during the winter months, roughly from October to March (peaking December to January).
This was April and, yes, we’re idiots.
However, a big part of this travel blog is to help you avoid our own mistakes, and so we are all too happy to pass that information on. If you are in Aberystwyth during a starling murmuration, then please enjoy it on our behalf!
If not, then we can still highly recommend grabbing salty fish & chips from PD's Diner (who also sell the best Welsh ice-cream) or The Chip Box 4 (the pink building on the corner) and savouring that sunset from the benches overlooking the pier to end your day by the sea in Wales.
The west coast sunsets here are phenomenal.
Did You Know // Many of the flags flying along the Aberystwyth promenade may be largely unfamiliar, but there’s a considered curation behind their selection. From Corsica to Catalan, Sardinia to Scotland, and Flanders to Friesland, they represent ‘minority European nations or states with their own languages’.
Where to Stay in Aberystwyth
The majority of guesthouses and hotels are right on the North Beach seafront, so angling for something with a sea view is almost mandatory! However, we’ve shared a number of options in and around the town centre which are only a short walk from the beaches, and are either beautiful, a bargain, or both.
One point we have to note about Aberystwyth is that its students have access to some of the best situated student digs in the UK. Bedroom or living room views facing the water? Yes please! The only thing we have to say as visitors is that it’s a shame some of the owners of the student housing on the front don’t appear to care about making sure their facades are in a condition befitting their prominent postcard position - come on guys, give it a lick of paint to look as lovely as some of the guesthouses and homes there!
Guesthouses and B&Bs
The Glengower | A delightful shade of duck-egg blue, this is a highly-rated option right on the front (and would fit the bill for those looking for a hotel experience too). It does have the pub attached, which may be a pro or a con for some of you, but its rooms are comfortable and most look out on the sea too! Find out more and check availability here.
Helmsman Guesthouse | Nearby, with a custard-cream yellow facade, the Helmsman’s rooms are no-frills room offers up a similar seafront experience and free private parking - find out more here.
Hotels
Richmond Hotel | The best hotel option on the seafront (the other large hotel was set on fire a few years ago and its fate isn’t yet decided), with parking included. Check availability here.
Nanteos Mansion Country House Hotel | This is a complete wildcard, but may be perfect if you’re on a romantic or decadent break (or surprise). A Grade I listed Georgian building, this hotel is only two miles from town, so offers the chance to split your time between the beach and its expansive grounds. Find out more here.
We’d opt for the guesthouses or two hotels above, but if you prefer something a bit more generic and ‘conference’ hotel, then there’s a Premier Inn or the Aberystwyth Park Lodge Hotel (which isn’t in the best location).
Apartments & Airbnbs
Starling View - Flat 4 | A bright and vibrantly decorated one-bed option on the seafront. It’s ideal for couples and highly rated- check prices availability here and here.
Sea View Apartment | A recently renovated modern apartment on the promenade, it’s a bit Ikea-generic but would do the job nicely for a few nights. Check availability here and here.
For families or larger groups, the following are worth a look: Town Centre Artist's Loft (sleeps 4), The Cosy Cottage (sleeps 5), and Awel Mor (sleeps 4)
How To Get To Aberystwyth
By Train
Mainly served by Transport for Wales trains, Aberystwyth is less than three hours from Birmingham and two hours from Shrewsbury (the English Midlands were always a big source of tourism by train for Aberystwyth since the 1860s).
If travelling from England or Scotland, you will likely have to transfer to one of the above in order to reach Aberystwyth; connections and services are relatively frequent.
From the Aberystwyth train station (Google Maps) you're less than a 10 minute walk from North Beach.
By Car
From Birmingham | 3 hours
From Manchester | 3 hours
From Cardiff | 2.5 hours
From London | 5+ hours
From Bristol | 3 hours
Parking in Aberystwyth
If you don't know about it beforehand, then parking in Aberystwyth can turn out to be a bit of a challenge. When we visited, there was a lot of driving about the town centre and promenade trying to find a suitable car park or a free spot which wasn't reserved to students, residents, or hotel guests. For example, there's a Premier Inn car park the public can use, but its hourly charges are really steep.
Our advice is to therefore make a beeline for one of the following:
North Beach | There are lots of free parking spaces along the promenade, but these are popular and will fill up quickly on a weekend. If you're a motorcyclist reading this, the North Beach actually has a large designated motorcycle parking area by the bandstand.
South Beach & Harbour | Where we ended up, and it was a good pay & display option with space for 100+ vehicles right by the beach (tight diagonal spaces though). £2 for two hours or £3.60 per day.
There are also public toilets here.
Maesyrafon Car Park or Lower Park Avenue | Nearby each other, these involve a 10-15 minute walk to the town centre and North Beach, but are large and easy to get to as you enter town. £1.80 for one hour, £2.70 for two hours or £4.80 per day for Maesyrafon (Google Maps), or just £1.90 for the day in Lower Park (Google Maps).
If staying overnight for a few days, then it is worth confirming the parking situation with your accommodation before booking - many hotels and guesthouses on the front have free parking included, but some may not.
Onward Connections | Aberystwyth to Cardigan Bay
Aberystwyth is the gateway to Cardigan Bay, principally because there are no train stations on this section of coast until significantly further south.
Therefore, if you don't have a car and wish to reach places like Cardigan, Aberaeron, or New Quay, your best bet is to go via Aberystwyth. From town, there are regular, daily bus connections to the above, with travel time ranging from 1-2 hours.
The once-hourly T5 bus (see schedule here), which calls at Aberaeron, New Quay, Cardigan, Fishguard and Haverfordwest, and you can find more bus information and timetables here.
