Looking for a holiday spot on the Ligurian Coast? Sestri Levante may well be it! A wonderful seaside town with great beaches, fantastic restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere, this guide has everything you need to know to plan your stay.
Located halfway along Riviera di Levante in eastern Liguria, the quaint seaside town of Sestri Levante has long been a popular holiday spot for visiting Italians, who descend upon its two beaches during the summer months.
For foreign tourists however, it seems that Sestri Levante is a victim of its own location; overshadowed by the pretty Portofino to the north and the quintet of Cinque Terre villages to the south, many are simply drawn elsewhere along this beautiful stretch of coast.
And we speak from experience.
Indeed, it was only upon looking for a quiet place to enjoy a handful of relaxed beach days after a hectic week in Florence and before a week in Cinque Terre, that we came stumbled across this dot on the map; the place locals refer to as ‘la città dei due mari’ - the city of two seas.
Perhaps more accurately described as the town with two bays, its unusual geography stems from its infancy as a small island. Now connected to the shoreline by a sliver of land, the ‘old Sestri Levante’ sits atop this isthmus, between the the protected Baia di Silenzio and the larger Baia delle Favole.
In this guide you’ll find everything you need to plan the perfect stay in Sestri Levante, including how to spend your time, where to find the best beaches, our top restaurant and accommodation picks, plus transport connections.
Here’s our essential guide to Sestri Levante.
Sestri Levante essentials
// Popular holiday destination for Italians
// Composed of two bays and two beaches
// An alternative to Cinque Terre
Things to Do in Sestri Levante
Hang out at a lido
We came to this holiday town in search of sun and sun loungers, and in Sestri Levante, that means making your way down to Baia delle Favole (the Bay of Fairytales or Bay of Fables).
Named in tribute to Hans Christian Anderson, the Danish writer of the Little Mermaid and other children’s tales who lived in town a short while, it’s literally covered in colourful parasols. Each is carefully coordinated to denote a particular business or owner, but for the new arrival it can be a little overwhelming to choose which one to settle on for the day.
The good news is that following a few broken-Italian conversations with around half a dozen, we are happy to report that there is actually very little difference in price or quality - so just go with your gut. Or your colour preference (whichever is stronger).
We opted to spend the full day under the orange and green parasols of Bagni Baia Azzurra (Google Maps), and were happy with that choice. Lido rates vary seasonally, but expect to pay €35 for two sun loungers in high season (July & August), and €25 in low season.
If you’re on a bit of a budget, but would still prefer a little distance between you and the sand, then Jimmy’s Beach (just a guy located at the far left of the beach) was advertising a cracking deal of just €10 for a bed and parasol, but with no facilities. You can find him here on Google Maps.
There are also a few sections of spiaggia libera here, but they weren’t terribly appealing.
This section of Sestri Levante beach is certainly more developed and commercial than the other (which we feature below). On Viale Rimembranza, the palm tree lined road just behind it, you’ll find a few bars and restaurants, as well as hotels facing out to the sea.
For more information on decoding the Italian Lido (it can be very confusing for non-natives or first timers in Italy), be sure to check our short guide.
Enjoy the free beach
Flanked by pastel-hued buildings and a crescent of soft golden sand, the beach along the Baia di Silenzio (the Bay of Silence) is a popular place to throw down a towel and spend the day - not least because to do so is completely free (a bit of a rarity in Italy).
Of course you’ll have to get there nice and early, and - during non-pandemic times - you’ll likely be sitting towel to towel alongside strangers, but with calm, warm waters steps away, a beautiful backdrop of painted buildings, plus easy access to the old town and some of Liguria’s best fried anchovies it’s definitely worth setting an early alarm clock to stake out a good spot.
The Essentials
// There are multiple access points to the Bay of Silence from the old town, but we’d recommend taking either Via Han Christian Andersen (here) or Via Byron (here).
// In terms of facilities, one or two small lidos pop up during summer whilst you can grab snacks, drinks, or lunch from a handful beach adjacent cafes and bars too.
// There are a couple of hotels which are only steps away from this bay too, including one which has its own private sunbathing area, and we’ve covered these in the accommodation section below.
Top tip | At the far end of the beach, you’ll find an old convent which has since been turned into a wonderful exhibition space (here on Google Maps), hosting all manner of cultural events. There is also a bar and panoramic viewing platform with wonderful views over the Bay of Silence.
Explore the Old Town
As we mentioned in our introduction, the old town of Sestri Levante sits atop a sliver of land that connects what used to be an island to the shoreline. Characterised by an impressive collection of colourful historical buildings, intertwining narrow streets, and an abundance of restaurants and cafes, when you’re not sunning yourself on sand or lounger, you will likely be here - eating, drinking, and being merry.
Should you however like to dig a little deeper into Sestri Levante’s history, or indeed Liguria’s cultural identity, there are a number of sites that welcome visitors and should not be missed:
Basilica of Santa Maria of Nazareth | Located in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti this 17th Century church has the feel (at least externally) of a Roman theatre.
If you’re in a church-y mood, consider also visiting Chiesa Dell'immacolata Concezione, Chiesa di San Pietro in Vincoli and Chiesa di San Nicolò Dell'isola (the oldest church in Sestri Levante).
Please remember to dress and act appropriately.
Museo Galleria Rizzi | The former residence of Marcello Rizzi, this grand building now houses paintings, sculpture and ceramics by the most famous Genoese and Ligurian artists. Find the gallery here on Google Maps. Entrance is €5 per person.
Palazzo Fascie Rossi | An impressive building fro the early 20th century, the palace now houses the municipal library, historical archives and an archeological and city museum. Entrance is €5 per person, but do note that many of the exhibits are only available in Italian. Find it here on Google Maps.
Whilst not technically a part of the old town, if you continue to walk around the Baia di Silenzio past Hotel Helvetia, you will reach a road with a steep incline leading up to a residential area. Along here there are not one, but two wonderful viewpoints that look back over the bay, with the old town behind it.
The two viewpoints can be found here and here.
Do note that it’s best to wait until at least late morning/early afternoon to ensure the entire bay is out of shadow and make your photos really pop! Alternatively, we can imagine that this would be a really lovely spot at sunset.
Take a Stroll down to the Port
As a pair of photographers that love taking photos of fishing boats - both big and small - we were always going to while away an early morning hour around the harbour and busier port area.
However, for those of you that are less snap-happy, a walk towards this part of Sestri Levante along the pedestrian friendly promenade, offers up a handful of other experiences, including the chance to buy fresh seafood caught just that morning (from the fish market - here on Google Maps), and an alternative view of the Bay of Fables, dwarfed by the lush green hills behind.
This is also the area from which you can catch various boats, and boat tours elsewhere along the Ligurian coast (more on this later).
Top tip | Surprisingly for what can often feel like a quiet holiday resort, tucked away in the port area is an incredible live music venue, Piscina dei Castelli, a luxurious annex of the Grand Hotel of the same name. Open since 1968 (imagine an Italian version of Studio 54, and we believe it was pretty close), it’s long been a place where a glamorous audience can watch nationally and internationally renowned DJs, and remains a fairly unique destination in Liguria. See their website for upcoming performances.
Admire the Painted Buildings
Upon arriving to Sestri Levante, two things immediately struck us: one, we were very happy with our decision to stay here, and two, almost every building was painted to appear more grand than it actually was.
As it turns out, this is not simply a quirk of this fairytale town, indeed it is a feature that can be found across much of Liguria - and it began in Genoa, in the 15th century.
Inspired by the impressive renaissance palaces that sprung up during this time (but unable to afford the embellishments) budget-savvy building owners turned to paint instead of sculpture to create the illusion of a grand design, in a creative process that has now become synonymous with this region of Italy.
It’s a bit like using lino instead of actual tiles on your floor.
For the best examples of these intricate designs, be sure to walk by:
// The building which houses Trattoria Angiolina
// Palazzo Durazzo (indeed all buildings within this particular square are immaculately painted)
// There is a selection of recently refurbished building halfway down Corso Colombo
Top Tip | Looking for more beautiful sea views? Consider embarking upon one of several well-signposted walking trails that lead from Sestri Levante. Popular routes include to Punta Manara, Punta Baffe and Sant’Anna.
take A Day Trip
If you’re here for summer, then Sestri Levante is an absolutely fantastic base to discover the Ligurian Coast. Aside from its own merits, it’s relatively affordable, well-connected, and easy to travel to/from several other popular destinations.
Whilst we wholeheartedly believe that the Cinque Terre deserves more than a day, for those of you with limited time in Italy - and a desire to see as much as possible - it’s worth noting that it is very easy to access the famed five villages from Sestri Levante, with direct trains to Monterosso al Mare (the most northerly village in the chain), taking just 19 minutes with the faster train, and regular boats offering round-trip to the Cinque Terre for €35 per person.
You can find lots of articles on the Cinque Terre on our Italy page, or alternatively, start here: 13 Wonderful Things to Do in the Cinque Terre.
Full details and prices on boat connections can be found here.
Other day trip options from Sestri Levante include:
// The pretty harbour town of Portofino by boat or train.
// Genoa, the home of Pesto, easily accessed by frequent trains.
// The nearby fishing hamlet of Riva Trigoso by foot or bus.
// The attractive city of Chiavari by train.
Where to Eat & Drink
The ease of navigating Sestri Levante is certainly part of its appeal, and most evenings you’ll be walking up and down Via XXV Aprile, the narrow central street in old Sestri Levante which is home to most restaurants, cafes, and bars of note.
It’s important to note that reservations are essential in summer for popular restaurants, or you’ll be faced with a bit of a wait.
Polpo Mario | This delightful restaurant served us one of the very best meals we ate during this particular two month Italian adventure. One of the more fine-dining options in Sestri, the menu changes daily dependent upon the fisherman’s catch, the staff are supremely knowledgeable about the food they serve, as well at what wine should accompany it. We cannot recommend it highly enough!
Just don’t eat octopus please!
L'Acciughina | If you’re looking for a cheap and easy fried seafood lunch or dunner, this photogenic spot is it. Small cones for €5, large for €9, go heavy on the salt and lemon!
Il Bargonello | A fantastic aperitivo spot, this cool little bar serves up a decent spritz (as well as an extensive wine list) alongside really excellent plates.
Gina La Piadina | Another lunch option, this time for excellent sandwiches, including decent veggie options. Expect to pay around €6 for a large sandwich.
Caffe Delle Fiabe | Their freshly baked pastries are so good, we ate breakfast here twice (don’t miss the cornetto al cioccolato) but it was the aperitivo on our final night which sealed the deal - €6 for an Aperol Spritz, or an extra €2 for a really decent plate of finger foods alongside it. They have a garden area at the back too, in case the pavement tables are full.
A.MARE | Another one for the seafood lovers, this restaurant serves up excellent plates of the day’s catch in an intimate outdoor setting. Do note that even their pasta dishes are fish-y which means this won’t suit everyone.
Bar La Tortuga | The food reviews are a little hit and miss, but we found this to a decent spot to have a cold beer on the way back from the Bay of Fairytales. It does have a bit of an English expat bar vibe though, weirdly.
L’Osteria Mattana | Unpretentious local fare with a foodie spin, in an aesthetically pleasing restaurant. Think low ceilings, great lighting, wooden tables and tiled floor - but with a modern edge. We would really wanted to eat here, but it was packed out each night.
Cantine Cattaneo | Located away from the main street, in the middle of a park, Cantine Cattaneo offers an altogether different experience to the others on this list - more Tuscany, less seaside. More intimate, it’s definitely a popular choice amongst those than enjoy fine-dining. We were unable to eat here, but its reputation meant it had to go on this list.
If it’s your first time in Italy, then you absolutely need to know about the coperto before you eat out or have an aperitivo - take a look at What Is The Coperto In Italy.
Where to Stay
There are a variety of accommodation options in Sestri Levante, with a surprisingly large number of high-rated hotels. A number of those hotels are within the old town and close to the bays, whilst the majority of the apartment rentals are closer to the train station in the new town area (though still just a 10-15 minute walk from where you need to be).
As with any popular holiday destination in Italy, it is imperative that you book your accommodation as far in advance as possible, especially if you have your eye on a particular property or are on a bit of a budget.
Airbnbs
Apartment Vela Verde | A lovely modern, bright two storey, two bedroom apartment very close to the station. It also has a small garden. Check here for prices and availability.
Casa Marinin | Whilst we actually booked this on Booking.com, we felt this apartment (where we stayed) was better placed in this section. A super modern, stylish one-bedroom, it’s a stones throw from the station and only a 15 minute walk to the beach. Fantastic hosts too - we highly recommend it! Find out more here.
Casa Vanilla | An aesthetically pleasing two-bedroom apartment with exposed brick and a modern nautical design, it also benefits from a small terrace, as well as being just 200 metres from the beach! Check prices and availability here.
Appartamento in Baia del Silenzio | A large, traditional three bedroom apartment, this Airbnb’s major selling point is its location right on the Bay of Silence, with spectacular waterfront views from the small terrace, as well as several rooms. Find out more here.
La Mansarda del Don Luigi | A good sized, tastefully decorated, two bedroom, attic-style penthouse apartment with a large terrace. Also has private parking. Check prices and availability here.
Like elsewhere along the Ligurian coast, accommodation prices in Sestri Levante (especially in high season) tend to be a little on the higher side compared to elsewhere in Italy. However, there are a number of cheaper, more budget friendly options in town, including:
Casa Mare Carolina (this one’s particularly good!)
Hotels & Guest Houses
Hotel Helvetia | If you’re in the market for a stunning hotel, this is it! Overlooking Baia del Silenzio, it offers exquisite attention to detail, sumptuous rooms, amazing views and a truly luxurious experience. It also has a private outdoor pool, and a small section of private beach. Check prices and availability here.
Slightly cheaper - but in our opinion, just as stunning - those that enjoy a high standard of hotel should absolutely take a look at Hotel Vis à Vis.
B&B VillaRocca da Ines e Perizia | Located a 30-minute walk from town amongst the Ligurian countryside, this B&B won’t suit everyone, but it was too charming not to mention. Run by a lovely couple that past guests speak exceptionally highly of, it also has a pool, offers free bikes to guests, and price includes an Italian breakfast. Check prices and availability here.
Alternatively, if the idea of staying a little outside of Sestri Levante is appealing but you’d prefer a more grand accommodation, be sure to check out the spectacular Villa Agnese.
Hotel Villa Rosa | Clean, functional and well located (only a five minute walk to the beach), this hotel is nothing fancy, but at €100 a night in high season, it’s exceedingly well priced. Check availability and prices here.
Although not quite our cup of tea, Hotel Due Mari and Suite Hotel Nettuno also come highly rated.
How to Get there
By Train
Sestri Levante’s yellow and white train station is located in the new part of town (Google Maps), and a 10-15 minute walk along flat, paved roads to the places you’re most likely to stay.
There’s a regular direct train services to and from a variety of major cities:
// Genoa (30 mins -1.5 hours, €5)
// Pisa (1.5 hours, €11-15 per person)
// Rome (5 hours, €50)
As we discussed above, Sestri Levante is also very accessible from the Cinque Terre, with very regular trains to/from Monterosso al Mare taking as little as 19 minutes.
At the entrance there is an information desk, as well as a ticket office and several self-service ticket machines (all of which are able to function in a number of languages).
By Car
Whilst Sestri Levante is accessible to cars (providing you take heed of ZTLs), there are very few places that you can park long term, i.e. for longer than a day.
For this reason, it is recommended that should you be visiting here as part of a longer Italian road trip and plan on spending few nights, that you pick an accommodation that can provide private parking. Many hotels offer this option (usually for an extra fee), as well as a number for of Airbnbs.
Alternatively, for those visiting on a day trip, there are ample car parks within the town, costing €1.50 an hour.
By Plane
The nearest airports to Sestri Levante are in Genoa and Pisa.
We have put together specific guides for getting to the Cinque Terre from Pisa Airport and Genoa Airport, but much of the information also applies to Sestri Levante.
