Planning a trip to the Cinque Terre? You’ll definitely be spending some time in Monterosso! This guide is full of everything you need to know, including the best things to do in Monterosso, where to stay, to eat and to sunbathe - everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip.
There’s a reason that the five colourful villages of the Cinque Terre have become a mecca for visitors from all corners of the world. Their calm aquamarine waters, pastel hued buildings tumbling from impossible heights, and rugged vineyard cliffs that create a truly unique set of wines, all weave together to create a timeless evocation of those Italian summers.
The only dilemma is deciding which to pick as your base.
The resort-style village of Monterosso al Mare is perhaps the odd one out when comparing all five. Of course it still has its charming historic centre, but with the modern extension further north along the coast, and its claim to having the region’s best beaches, it has a unique offering for visitors to the Cinque Terre, attracting Italian lido-loving vacationers as much as international tourists. Due to this, it’s less intimate and more developed than the others - but that by no means it should be dismissed as a place to stay or spend time in during your Cinque Terre experience.
In this guide we’ve covered the very best things to do in Monterosso, as well as our choices for where to eat and drink, a selection of accommodation recommendations, and a handful of personally curated tips so that you can make the very most of your time in the Cinque Terre’s most popular spot - whether you choose to stay for a week or only visit for the day.
This is our guide to Monterosso al Mare.
The Monterosso Essentials
/ Largest of the five villages
/ Only sandy beach in Cinque Terre
/ All about those resort vibes
Understanding the Layout of Monterosso
Unlike the other four Cinque Terre villages, Monterosso has a very distinct ‘old’ and ‘new’ section, divided by a single tunnel that burrows beneath the San Cristoforo promontory and caters to pedestrians and the few cars / vans allowed to enter the village limits.
In order to pick the most appropriate area to stay in, and to properly orientate yourself when you arrive it’s important to understand the general layout.
The ‘Old’ Monterosso
This section of the village is dominated by the walls of the ancient fortress - the Aurora Tower - and the remains of the Fieschi Castle, as well as the the Church of St John the Baptist and the Capuchin Monastery, both of which are visible from both the old and the new sections. It’s also home to the brightly coloured houses, winding streets and steep stone staircases that are common to all five of the Cinque Terre Villages.
There is also a small pebble beach (Spiaggia Tragagia) within the harbour which has a lido as well as a free beach area.
The New Monterosso
Also known as Fegina, the modern section extends along the coastline from the San Cristoforo promontory all the way to Punta Mesco. It is here that you will find the best beach in Monterosso (indeed, the best beach in the Cinque Terre), the railway station, and one of the two car parks for visitors.
It’s only about 15 minutes walk end to end, via the tunnel, so you’ll spend time in both parts.
Things to Do in Monterosso Al Mare
Get your suntan on
One of the main reasons that Monterosso al Mare is chosen by many as a base in the Cinque Terre, is its claim to having the only sandy beach along this particular stretch of coast.
In fact, for every one person seduced into a trip to here by photos of the tumbling colourful houses, we can guarantee there’s at least another that has fallen for an image of those orange and green parasols which line the sand of this particular village.
For those that have limited experience of travelling in Italy (or at least time at Italian beaches), there are a few important points to be aware of before topping up your tan; both with regards to the ‘lido system’ and the Monterosso beaches in particular.
| Spiaggia Fegina
This is the largest, nicest sandy section of beach in Cinque Terre, which is located directly opposite the train station, in the new part of Monterosso.
There's a small section of free beach here (Google Maps), where you can lay your towel down for no cost, but this fills up quickly and becomes very crowded in summer. Get there early if you can and don't expect a lot of space to sprawl out as the day progresses.
Alternatively, you can choose from a few lidos on the left and the right sides. The art of the Italian lido, effectively a private/paid beach club, is something which has taken us several trips to understand and appreciate. We have a whole article on the subject get you up to speed: How Lidos in Italy Work.
It is within these lidos that you’ll find those iconic orange and green parasols by the way, with Beach Bar Stella Marina Monterosso Al Mare on the far right side and the Bagni Eden Bar & Gelateria (Google Maps) on the left. It’s the lido at Bagni Eden Bar that’s the most photogenic spot, but if you want a chair and parasol in the very best spot by the rock, you’ll need to reserve ahead of time (when we were there, there was a mobile number on the gate which you could call in advance of your beach day to secure your place). Do note that during the high season, even the lido on the far right fills up super quick, and so we’d recommend getting there as early as possible.
When we were in Monterosso, the lidos opened at 9 am and closed at 5 pm, but this may change dependent upon time of year. Expect to pay €30 for a parasol and two sun beds in high season, and €25 in low season.
| Spiaggia Il Gigante
Turn right out the train station, walk for a few minutes past various restaurants, the car park and little football pitch on your left, and you'll arrive at the next best section of classic 'beach' after Spiaggia Fegina. It's a lot smaller with two lidos, so more of a 'plan b' if there's no space at Fegina. Keep an eye out for the battle-scarred statue of Neptune in the cliff!
| Spiaggia Portiglione
A 10-minute walk from the station, about five minutes after you pass Il Gigante, this is a lesser visited free beach (at least by tourists) but still very pleasant.
| Spiaggia Tragagia
Walk left from the station for five minutes and go through the tunnel. You'll emerge out into 'old Monterosso', and quickly spy its small beach area (below). We wouldn't choose to go there for the day, but it’s still got great swimming and quite a substantial free beach area.
Read Later | The Best Cinque Terre Beaches
Hike the Blue Trail
A dusty sliver which entwines and entangles between ripening terraced vineyards scattered on steep hillsides, the Cinque Terre's most famous coastal trail deserves a day of your time.
Used for centuries, the Sentiero Azzuro (Blue Trail) links together all five coastal villages and begins here, on a small path above the old town. Unfortunately erosions and landslides - a real problem along the Ligurian Coast - have cut it short the last few years, and from Monterosso visitors are now only able to access the trail to Vernazza, and then onwards to Corniglia.
A hike from Monterosso to the other two villages (solely on foot, or in combination with the train) will require at least a half day of your time but, having completed it, we can attest to the fact that this is an activity that should be high on your list of things to do in the Cinque Terre!
Read Later | We’ve written a complete guide to The Blue Trail and hiking in Cinque Terre, so be sure to head over there for more information and inspiration.
Taste Cinque Terre Wine
Used to seeing highly cultivated vineyards elsewhere in the world, to us, the vineyards of Cinque Terre have a much more organic feel. Indeed, winemaking here is defined as a somewhat heroic viticulture because of how difficult it is work with the improbably steep and rocky terrain, meaning that everything from general maintenance to harvesting needs to be done by hand.
It is no mean feat, and something we’d encourage you to witness yourself.
If you plan on completing the Blue Trail from Monterosso you’ll come across plenty of vineyards, however even those not so keen on hiking should head out along at least the first kilometre to see first hand quite how rugged the landscape is, and what an achievement it has been to cultivate the natural landscape.
And then you can start on the wines!
There are two main local varieties: the Cinque Terre DOC (a dry white made with the native Bosco grape, together with Albarola and Vermentino) and the Sciacchetrà DOC (a sweet dessert wine), and we encourage you to try both during your time in the region.
There are numerous enotecas - or wine bars - across the five villages, but if you’re basing yourself in Monterosso or fancy partaking in an afternoon’s tasting, we’d recommend checking out:
Enoteca da Eliseo | From the late 80’s, Eliseo has been offering the wine of the Cinque Terre to an international set from his delightful wine bar in the heart of Monterosso old town. With super knowledgeable staff, a curated selection of local wines and a great atmosphere, we found ourselves wondering back here more than once. They don’t offer wine tasting per se, but the glasses are reasonably priced enough to try at least a few.
Enoteca Internazionale | Run by the Barbieri family, Internazionale is the oldest wine shop in Monterosso, and offers a veritable selection of wine - both local and from further afield - plus artisanal food products. They also host Cinque Terre wine tastings (by prior arrangement only) and operate as a lovely bar with indoor and outdoor seating. Find out further information and make reservation for wine tastings here.
Rent a Boat
For an alternative view of the Cinque Terre villages, the opportunity to escape the busy streets and some time floating on the blue, consider hopping on board a boat for a few hours during your visit.
Should you be a competent captain, you can hire and drive one yourself, or if not, it’s possible to include the services of a skipper within the price.
We don’t have any personal recommendations for companies that do this, so instead we’d recommend having a chat with either your accommodation provider or the tourist information.
Alternatively, there are a number of water-based tours that you can take, beginning in Monterosso, including:
Kayak Tour | A great way to experience the Cinque Terre and perfect for those looking for a more active excursion, as well as the opportunity to enjoy hidden coves and the silence of the sea. Find out more here.
Sunset Boat Tour | Sail from Monterosso to Riomaggiore whilst enjoying gorgeous views, a local appetitivo and the opportunity to swim and snorkel. A highly rated tour! Find out more here.
Explore the Old Town
As we mentioned earlier, Monterosso is divided into an old and a newer section; as one might expect, it is the historical section (also known as Borgo Antico) that is the most beautiful.
Small winding streets, tumble-down staircases and bight splashes of colour, it’s a delight to explore before or after the crowds descend. And don’t worry about getting lost - that’s half the fun!
For such a small place, you’ll appreciate that there aren’t many ‘must-sees’ within Borgo Antico, however be sure to meander past the striking black and white marble 14th century Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista, and Oratorio dei Neri (the Church of the Dead).
Top tip | Once you’ve explored the colourful streets, head up to Torre Aurora, the 13th-century tower that once formed part of the village’s fortifications (sadly the other 12 towers have not survived the test of time), then continue higher still to the 16th century Chiesa di San Francesco and the Capuchin monastery from which there is a stunning panorama.
Also, you don’t always have to walk through the tunnel to go between the old and new sections - go via the path on there right hand side too!
There are a couple of other walking trails starting in Monterosso - find out more here.
Do some souvenir shopping
There are a number of lovely little artisanal shops throughout the five villages, selling everything from pesto and wine, to clothing and bowls. One such shop that absolutely shouldn’t be missed is the delightful Fabbrica d'Arte Monterosso.
Family-owned and run, since 1982 they’ve created uniquely beautiful handmade ceramics (including porcelain, terracotta and stoneware) and 100% hand-printed linens, which are now sold from one of two shops in the centre of Monterosso’s old town.
You can find the bigger store on Via Roma 9, and the smaller one around the corner at Via V Emanuele 27
Top tip | If picking up local foodie treats is more your sort of thing, be sure to pop into the Pesto Lab (a sort of pesto-laboratory-workshop) using basil produced upon the hills of the Cinque Terre, overlooking the sea.
As one would imagine, they sell all sorts of pesto products, as well as jars of locally-caught anchovies, olive oil, pasta sauces, wine and salty olives. All the good stuff!
Alternatively, if you’d like to learn how to make pesto yourself, you can join a pesto making class during your time in Monterosso. See more information here.
Visit the Other Villages in the Cinque Terre
Monterosso is a fantastic base from which to explore the four other Cinque Terre villages, with all five villages linked by a regular - and quick - train service.
You can find specific guides to the other four villages below:
Vernazza | Corniglia | Manarola | Riomaggiore
Try the Famous Monterosso Anchovies
Whilst you can find restaurants serving anchovies (alici or acciughe) anywhere along the Cinque Terre, it is likely off the coast of Monterosso where they were caught, in a tradition that stretches back hundreds (if not thousands) of years.
Pan-fried with garlic and olive oil, stuffed and baked, salted and served on pizzas and in pasta, or fried in a light batter and served with salt and lemon (our personal favourite); if you’re a fish lover, grab a plate of your choosing, a cold glass of Cinque Terre wine and enjoy a moment of la dolce vita along the Ligurian coast!
Monterosso anchovies are held in high regard all over Italy, so this is the place to try ‘em.
Top tip | Whilst we didn’t get a chance to try them out here, we’ve heard that one of the best anchovy spots in all of Monterosso is Trattoria Da Oscar (Google Maps). Reservations are required, and be sure to ask for a table outside.
Restaurants and Bars in Monterosso Al Mare
As the largest village in the Cinque Terre, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to restaurants, lunch spots and places to grab a drink. Personally, we enjoyed the leisurely walk, menu peruse and spontaneous decision after the sun had set but wanted to share some of our favourites here, broken down into the new and the old town:
New Town
Enoteca 5Terre | Nothing fancy, but you can get a two-course meal for two, plus a decent bottle of wine for around €50 - plus views overlooking the water. An excellent lunch or dinner spot.
Il Bocconcino | The go-to place in Monterosso for cones of freshly fried fish - perfect for a beach day snack/lunch.
La Cantina da Miky | This one is not in here so much as a recommendation, more so a cautionary tale… We made a point of having dinner here one night due to various recommendations and the restaurant having a great local supplier ethos, but were massively underwhelmed. The food was just so disappointing (bordering on not great when you factor in how much it cost relatively) and the service lacking. During this two month trip in Italy, it was the only restaurant experience which fell below expectations. Others have had good experiences, but we wouldn’t go back.
Ristorante Lapo | We didn’t eat at this pizza / pasta restaurant, but its colourful outdoors seating area going up the stairs was always full and popular in the evenings.
Old Town
Gastronomia San Martino | Super fresh food with a daily changing menu, this restaurant is popular with locals for takeaway and offers up excellent sized portions of pasta for reasonable prices. Only a handful of tables outside, but it’s a lovely place to have a meal.
Wonderland Bakery | We were delighted to come across this cute little bakery during one of our early morning wanderings. Definitely the place to go for morning pastries!
L’Ancora della Tortuga | For a high-end or romantic dining experience with incredible views, you have to consider this family-run restaurant built into the cliff. Found in the Michelin Guide, it specialises in fresh seafood pasta and local wines in a breathtaking location. Reservations essential.
Torre Aurora | Located in a 13th century castle, Aurora offers a delightful combination of exquisite restaurant, aperitivo spot and late-night cocktail bar. With stunning views overlooking the sea, it makes for probably the most unique place to dine or drink in Monterosso.
Da Eraldo | A much more relaxed vibe than the two restaurants mentioned above, Eraldo offers simple home-cooked meals at good prices in an unpretentious environment.
Pizzeria La Smorfia | With a heavy focus on seafood, there are far fewer pizzerias in the Cinque Terre than elsewhere in Italy; in Monterosso, La Smorfia is your best bet. A huge selection of pizzas - which are huge in themselves - and decent house wine sold by the carafe.
Where to Stay in Monterosso Al Mare
As we mentioned in 23 Things to Know Before Visiting the Cinque Terre, this is not a cheap part of Italy to visit - and of the five villages, Monterosso is probably the most expensive.
In the high season, you should expect to pay upwards of €150 a night for a semi-decent Airbnb, with good hotels and guest houses sometimes charging double that; before you begin booking accommodation, it’s really important that you quickly reassess what good value means.
Likely due to supply and demand, Airbnb accommodation is of particularly poor standard for the price, with almost all apartments looking like they need a modern overhaul, an abundance of cramped studios, and beds literally everywhere. Airbnbs with terraces are plentiful, but expect to pay a premium on an otherwise underwhelming place.
Despite all this, given Monterosso’s status as a proper beach town and its abundance of amenities, for many of you this will serve as an excellent base for exploring and experiencing the Cinque Terre. Indeed we spent three nights here ourselves and didn’t regret our decision given we wanted 1) a proper beach day and 2) to walk the Blue Trail.
It’s important to note that because of the overwhelming popularity of Monterosso as a holiday destination for both for Italians and foreign travellers, it’s imperative that you book your accommodation as early as possible, especially if you have particular requirements or a stricter budget.
Note that many of the apartments in Monterosso sit at the top of several steep flights of stairs. This is usually noted in the description, but it’s worth confirming with the property owner in advance if mobility or access is a concern. Alternatively, most of the hotels on the seafront in Monterosso are at ground level.
We’ve put together a comprehensive post on Where to Stay in the Cinque Terre (an extensive but curated guide to the best Airbnbs, hotels and guest houses within the five villages) but have included a selection of what’s on offer for Monterosso below:
Airbnbs
Borgo Antico (Old Town)
Sunny Mountain View Apartment with Balcony | Completely renovated in 2017, this tastefully decorated one bedroom apartment located in the centre of Monterosso old town has a private terrace, lots of space, light and views and all mod-cons. Check availability here.
Amazing Terrace Overlooking the Sea | Whilst this one-bedroom flat itself isn’t anything to get too excited about, the surprisingly large roof terrace with wonderful views out over the old town is - especially when it costs less than €100 a night in high season! Find out more and check availability here.
Da Annita | If you’re looking for a large, super modern apartment furnished to a high standard (with balcony) but would prefer to be in the old town rather than Fegina, this is a great shout. Check prices and availability here.
Amazing apt. with an exciting view | Not quite our cup of tea design wise (albeit to a high standard), this two bedroom apartment has a fantastic - and large - terrace with amazing views over the ocean. Check prices and availability here.
La Casa di Cinzia | This one-bedroom Airbnb is far from fancy, but it’s in the heart of the old town, has a great roof terrace and is incredibly good value - which makes it a winner in our eyes! Find out more and check availability here.
New Town
Bibi | A modern one bedroom, two person apartment. Clean, modern (one of the more design conscious Airbnbs in the village) and very bright, it has everything you need for a short stay. Note it is up a very steep hill so not suitable for those with limited mobility. Check availability and prices here.
Blue Diamond | New apartment with a great fitted kitchen, big living space, lovely bedroom and small terrace. Three minutes from beach. Also comes with free parking - a rarity here! Check availability and prices here.
Casa Magonza | This two-bedroom apartment in genuinely lovely! Right on the sea front, with views over the water from a good sized terrace, the decor is really pleasant with all the home comforts you’d want. Check availability and prices here.
Ulivo | A really cute little one-bedroom attic apartment in the hills above the old town (but only 10 min walk from beach), with panoramic views over Monterosso. One of the best value Airbnbs we came across! Check availability and prices here.
Seaview Monterosso | A delightful three bedroom property a couple of minutes from the beach. Feeling like a family home (in the best possible way), it has a classic aesthetic with original tiles, solid wooden furniture, and traditional comforts. It’s kind of lovely! Find out more here.
Hotels & Guest Houses
Borgo Antico
Zia Letizia Bed And Wine | This charming guest house is super cute with homely and high quality furnishings and decor - we think it’s adorable! Also has great roof terrace, and a superb breakfast included. Doubles from €145 per night in high season, making it great value too. Check availability and prices here.
Piccolo Principe Affittacamere | This small guest house only has two rooms, but definitely deserves a mention as one of our picks. In the heart of the old town, the rooms have been beautifully refurbished and modernised (whilst retaining period features such as the ceiling) with an eye on design. Doubles in high season from €175 per night. Check availability and prices here.
Bellambra | A beautiful guest house set in a 14th-century building, the rooms combine classic-style furnishings, wood-beamed ceilings and design bathrooms. No balconies, but all rooms feature lovely lemon gardens, the historical centre or olive groves. Doubles from €250 per night in high season. Check availability and prices here.
New Town
MìaChì | Located a short walk form the station and the beach, this contemporary feel hotel is decorated to a high standard throughout, light and bright with clean lines. Some rooms have a balcony or terrace. Doubles starting from €155 in high season. Check availability and prices here.
Roca Du Ma Pasu | If you’re looking for a beautiful, modern hotel with large & luxurious rooms, great amenities and a terrace overlooking the ocean, this is Roca Du Ma Pasu is the one for you! Doubles from €260 in high season. Check availability and prices here.
For more, see our Cinque Terre Accommodation post.
How to Get to Monterosso Al Mare and Transport Connections
Located at the northernmost point of the Cinque Terre, Monterosso can be reached very easily from larger cities along the Ligurian Coast, or indeed elsewhere across Italy.
Train
We’ve written specific articles on train connections to / from Cinque Terre from other popular Italian destinations, including Genoa, Pisa, Florence, and Milan. Travel time for all is between 1.5 and 3.5 hours, tickets cost €7-15, and journeys will often involve a connection in La Spezia, Sestri Levante, or Levanto.
From La Spezia to Monterosso, it’s just 23 minutes; simply take the local train in the direction of Sestri Levante and get off after five stops.
From Sestri Levante or Levanto, simply take the regional train in the direction of La Spezia Centrale and get off at the Monterosso stop.
You can find Monterosso train station here on Google Maps, and note that it’s found on ticket websites under ‘Monterosso’ not ‘Monterosso al Mare’. You’ll find a ticket machine at the ground floor entrance of the station opposite the ATM, whilst there’s a ticket office and tourist information office up stairs too.
Between all five Cinque Terre villages, in both directions, there are very frequent departures bringing you to the others in a matter of minutes. A single journey costs €4 (a flat rate to/ from any of the five villages). If you’re planning on using the train to get between the Cinque Terre villages (which we wholeheartedly recommend), consider investing in the Cinque Terre Treno Card, which includes unlimited travel on the Cinque Terre Express trainline as well as access to the Blue Trail and buses.
You can find all the details Cinque Terre card and the transport system in this post.
Car
All five villages in the Cinque Terre are closed to cars, and so for this reason we wouldn’t actually recommend using a rental car to try and explore the region.
However, if you are only visiting Monterosso it is worth noting that there are two carparks within the village:
Loreto | Located at the entrance to the historical section of the village.
High Season: €2.50/hour, or €25 per day for the first two days. The third to seventh day costs €10 per day, and after this drops to €5 per day.
Low Season: €2/hour, or €20 per day. The third to seventh day costs €8 per day, and after this drops to €4 per day. Note that during the low season you are only allowed to park on the ground floor, with the first floor being reserved for season ticket holders. In addition, for stays of longer than 7 days, you are required to park in the newer carpark covered below.
Fegina | Located within the new section of the Monterosso, near the railway station
High season: 8 am to 10 pm €2.50/hour, 10pm to 8 am €0.50/hour, or €25 per day. The 3rd to 7th day costs €10 per day, and after this drops to €5 per day.
Low season: 8 am to 10 pm €2/hour, 10pm to 8 am €0.50/hour, or €20 per day. The 3rd to 7th day costs €8 per day, and after this drops to €4 per day.
Plane
The nearest airports to Monterosso Al Mare are in Genoa, Pisa and Florence. See these guides for further information:
// How to get to the Cinque Terre from Genoa Airport
// How to get to the Cinque Terre from Pisa Airport
Monterosso Al Mare Travel Tips
ATMs | There are three bank ATMs in Monterosso, one in the new town (here at the train station), and two on Via Roma in the old town (here and here). Do note that there are a handful of Euronet ATMs dotted about which we advise you avoid to like the plague, or face exorbitant fees
Check out this post - How To Avoid ATM Fees When You Travel - for more tips.
Baggage Shuttle | Spend any time in Monterosso, and you’ll quickly notice the ape-van conversions used for ferrying tourists luggage from the train station in the new town, to the accommodations in the old. We’d recommend discussing with your accommodation if you need to utilise this service, or alternatively, head to the information desk at the station upon your arrival.
Restaurant Reservations | Whilst there are many more restaurants in Monterosso compared to elsewhere in the Cinque Terre, there are generally many more tourists too, which means that whilst you may get away with turning up and waiting for a table, in the height of summer we’d recommend making a reservation ahead of time - especially if you have your eye on a particular dinner spot or are keen to try out somewhere with a bit of a reputation.
Supermarkets | In the new town you can find two small but relatively well-stocked mini markets towards the east side of the beach, and in the old town there are three grocery stores - two smaller ones in the central area, and a larger Crai (here on Google Maps) a little further along Via Roma.
Note that prices in the stores here are understandably marked up quite a bit, so if you’ll be spending a few days here but stopping at Levante or La Spezia on your way, it may be worth buying a few items in one of the bigger - and more reasonably priced - shops there.
Water Fountain | To stay hydrated and do your bit fro the environment, we’d highly recommend bringing a reusable water bottle to Italy keeping an eye out for the public water fountains dotted around Monterosso. With that said however, we were quite partial to filling up our bottles at the paid-for water station just under the railway bridge at the entrance to the old town - cool, sparkling water at super cheap prices (about 50 cents / litre).
Check out this post - How To Use Less Plastic When You Travel - for more tips.
Safety | Definitely not something to get over-concerned by, but the huge numbers of tourists that pass through Monterosso on a summer’s day means that it is a bit of a magnet for pick-pockets; be sure to keep an eye on your belongings, and avoid placing valuable items in easily accessible pockets etc.
Late Nights | The Cinque Terre isn’t a late-night party or booze location, and you shouldn’t come here if that’s what you’re looking for. Monterosso, which is arguably the most ‘resort’ like holiday town within the National Park has a bar or two which serve cocktails or drinks until a little later in the evening, but expect everything to be shut before midnight.
YOUR NEXT STOP
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23 Things to Know Before Visiting Cinque Terre
Where to Stay in the Cinque Terre
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