A boat tour to spot the endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins is a wonderful, responsible, and ethical animal experience in Cambodia.
We visited in partnership with G Adventures earlier this year, and this post will give you all the inspiration + information to add it to you own Cambodia plans!
The small village of Kampi, just 15 km outside of Kratie, sits at the end of a very bumpy and dusty road.
Not that we minded.
Coming from the over-saturated tourist hotspot of Siem Reap, it was a delight to travel the 45 minutes through the countryside, past traditional stilt houses and slumbering dogs, waving children and grazing cows - colourful snapshots of life and community in rural Cambodia.
In a part of the country that relies almost entirely on agriculture, tourism here is a relatively new concept - and one driven entirely by the Irrawaddy dolphin.
Before the reign of the Khmer Rouge, there were likely thousands of these very special dolphins in Cambodia. But in the years of devastating starvation forced upon the citizens under the regime, the rural villagers that lived along the Mekong sought food within its waters, and decimated the dolphin population.
Combined with the irresponsible fishing practices of subsequent decades, the Irrawaddy dolphin has been on the verge of extinction ever since.
There is a glimmer of hope however: despite falling to their lowest ever recorded number in 2015 (just 80 dolphins), as of 2019 the numbers have increased to at least 95, with a suspicion that there may be another dozen or so unrecorded dolphins living within the waters of the Mekong.
And tourism is a big reason why.
Following work by the WWF (supported by the Cambodian government) to support law enforcement efforts combatting unsustainable fishing practices, and the decision to promote Irrawaddy dolphins as a flagship species and attraction, some locals have traded their fishing boats for sight-seeing ventures to bring nature-loving visitors closer to this incredibly rare mammal.
In a world where we see the negative impact of swelling visitor numbers all too frequently, it's genuinely refreshing to have a touristic experience which is not only positively impacting the local community but also going some way to help pull back a species from extinction. Further, it’s an animal tourism experience done ethically and responsibly - with the dolphins wild and free in the river, and not coaxed in by feeding.
Our own adventure in search of the elusive dolphins began at 5.30 p.m., as the sun hung low casting a golden hue across the smooth waters of the Mekong. Setting off in our yellow wooden boat - ingeniously steered by the captain's right foot - we left the shallows of the shore, heading up stream to deeper waters.
Remarkably, it didn't take long to spot a grey flash breaching the surface. And then another. Our fingers lingered over camera shutters, never quite quick enough to capture what our eyes could see.
Unlike their marine counterparts, who jump fully out of the ocean whilst swimming in a continuous path, the Irrawaddy dolphins are a little more coy, a little less razzle dazzle, only ever partially appearing above the surface before diving back down below. And there's absolutely no guarantee as to where they will appear next.
It’s a little like hide-and-seek.
Eventually, we gave up trying to take photos of them on our dozen or so sightings, taking the time instead to simply enjoy the tranquil experience that until very recently didn't exist at all.
Making our way back to dry land, we couldn't help but beam at one another. This hour out on the water was simply marvellous. The most golden of golden hours, a luxurious light illuminating everything it touched; perfect blue skies painted by a stream of dancing birds and the occasional thrill of spotting an animal that very nearly disappeared forever.
Cambodia is an incredibly well-visited country, but this little visited experience at the edge of a village called Kampi is why we travel.
How to Join an Irriwaddy Dolphin Spotting Boat Trip
The Irrawaddy dolphin spotting boat tours leave from Kampi, about 15 km north of Kratie, on the road to Sambor in the north-east of Cambodia.
This particular activity was included on our two-week G Adventures Ultimate Cambodian Adventure tour, but if you're travelling through Cambodia independently, it's pretty straightforward to make your own way there if you have enough time:
Bicycle | Your guesthouse in Kratie will be able to arrange a bicycle for you, or you can cut out the middle man and head straight to the bike shop near the Ministry of Water Resources. Expect to pay around $1 for a day rental. Just don’t leave everything too late so you are left biking down dusty roads after dark!
Motorbike | A fantastic option for exploring the countryside surrounding Kratie, a motorbike will cost any where from $4 to $8 / day depending on the quality and type of bike that you choose. Your guest house will be able to sort this for you. Just as a little warning, the road to Kampi is not in great shape so be sure to drive carefully, wear a helmet and ensure you have appropriate insurance.
Tuk Tuk | Probably the most popular option, you should expect to pay $10 - $15 for a tuk tuk for up to four people. This will cover transport to and from Kampi plus waiting time.
Tour | It is also possible to join a tour from Kratie which includes transport and and the boat trip but it's likely that this will work out more expensive than the above options, especially if there are only one or two people in your group.
Read Later | How to Plan Your Cambodia Itinerary
Once you arrive in Kampi, the entrance to the dolphins site is very obvious, with a large sign at the edge of the road - simply turn in, park up and head to the ticket office. You can find it here on Google Maps. At time writing, the tickets cost US$9 per person, reducing to US$7 for groups three people or more (each boat can hold up to six people).
Whilst it is possible to head out with a boat at any point throughout the day, if you have the option, the optimal time is early in the morning (7-8 a.m.) or just before sunset when the dolphins are feeding naturally and therefore most active.
Between the months of November and May the boat trip lasts 60 mins, whereas if you visit during the rainy season (Jun-Oct), you will be out on the water for 90 minutes to increase your chances of spotting a dolphin. We saw dolphins about a dozen times on our tour, sometimes in groups of two or three, sometimes on their own.
Tips for a More Responsible Experience
Firstly, simply by putting your money towards this experience you are being a helpful and responsible tourist. Without your dollars, it's possible that people would return to unsustainable fishing practices and hasten the extinction of the Irrawaddy dolphin.
It's also really important to ensure that your boat driver sticks to rules put in place to ensure the safety of the dolphins. Our driver was excellent, but just in case, it's worth remembering that the boat should never be driven directly at a pod of dolphins, and they should absolutely never try and separate them (this is especially important if there are any calfs as they need lots of space and become very stressed if a boat gets too close).
Ideally, once the boat is all the way upstream to where the dolphins tend to congregate, the engine should be turned off and they should use the paddle to head back downstream. Now, our driver didn't have his engine off all the time, but he did in the presence of any dolphins and for long periods of time either side. When it was turned on, he travelled very slowly, as should yours.
On an entirely different note, keep a hold of your goodamn water bottle. Plastic pollution is a massive problem in Cambodia, and we honestly believe that every traveller shold be travelling with a water filter bottle to combat this - should you be buying single-use bottles, please, please, please do not dispose of them in the river. And pick up any trash you do see and dispose of it back on land.
And finally, you'll notice that there are a number of stands selling artisanal goods and standard touristic trinkets, as well as drinks and snacks - support them if you can. Even if it's just a couple of cans of beer that you take to the viewing platform to enjoy at sunset!
An Alternative to the Boat Tour
A fantastic alternative to the traditional boat trip, is the option to join a half-day kayak tour (Sorya Kayaking Adventures comes highly recommended), which passes through remote flooded forest and sandbars, as well as the main river.
As the kayaks are significantly quieter than the boats, it's possible that you'll have increased chances of spotting a dolphin before they realise you're there and disappear beneath the surface.
Tours cost around $50 for transport, guide and kayak use.
Dolphin Spotting in the Dry Season vs the Wet Season
As you can probably imagine, Irrawaddy dolphins that are notoriously difficult to spot are much easier to find when their naturally habitat - that is the Mekong - is at its lowest point. As such, trips out on the boat are much more fruitful if you can visit in the dry season (October - April) when the dolphins tend to stick to one particular area of deep water.
Where to Stay in Kratie
As Kratie is at the very beginning of its tourism journey, there's only a handful of accommodation options in town. Thankfully, several of these are more than adequate for a couple of nights’ stay. These are our top picks!
River Dolphin Hotel | This was where we stayed with G Adventures, and although a little out of town, it was a pleasant experience. The rooms are large, with very grand furnishings, it has a pretty good restaurant (with happy hour cocktails) and a really excellent breakfast. Plus, the staff are super helpful. To find out more, or check prices, click here.
Le Tonlé Guesthouse | This guesthouse is actually a training centre for underpriviledged youth and comes very highly rated. Right in the centre of town, it's got clean rooms, good common areas, a restaurant that serves - by all accounts - really excellent food and incredibly helpful staff. They also have dorms. Find out more here.
Sorya Guesthouse | Probably the fanciest place to stay in town (but you can still get a double from $12 and a dorm for $8 a night), with really stylish touches throughout and great rooms. It's owned by the same people that operate the dolphin kayak tours so if you're keen to join one, it makes sense to stay here. To find out more or check prices and availability, click here.
