If you’re looking for an off the beaten track hike near Cusco, don’t miss Huchuy Qosqo.

Find everything you need to plan your adventure in this guide.

Despite having more than two weeks in Cusco with our hiking boots being forever attached to our feet, and taking colectivos to all corners of the Sacred Valley, it was around the hostel's singular red plastic table on a particularly chilly November eve that we realised we had a decision to make: we could only do one more hike.

The problem was deciding which.

Prior to this second visit to Peru, we'd never heard of Huchuy Qosqo ('Little Cusco' in Quechua), the long abandoned 13th century ruins three miles straight up from Lamay. The fact that in one of the most tourist heavy parts of South America, peak season visitors to this Incan archeological site can total less than 25 per day, suggests that we were not alone.

Which, in the end, is exactly why we picked it.

We are not being hyperbolic when we state that this was one of the most memorable hikes we've ever done - anywhere in the world. Having experienced days of busy trails and tour groups, the long trek to Huchuy Qosqo feels like going on an adventure of old.

No people, no distractions, just the melodic ‘left right, left right’ of footsteps across (relatively) untrodden lands, epic Peruvain landscapes and the chance to get away from it all at high altitude.

In this guide we've covered everything you need to know before setting off to Huchuy Qosqo, including how to get to the start point, a hike description, information for visiting the ruins, how to get back to Cusco and lots of useful tips.

huchuy qosqo essentials

Altitude // Huchuy Qosqo sits at 3,650m but you will reach an altitude of 4,320m during this hike.
Distance // 20 km (12 miles)
Time // A full day.
Difficulty // Moderate.
Entry fee // 7 soles

Important Things to Know Before the Huchuy Qosqo Hike

1. Whilst this is not a difficult hike, it’s not the easiest either. It is super long at 7+ hours, sections are at relatively high altitude, and the downhill parts can be tough on the knees. For this reason, we really wouldn't recommend attempting it unless you're well acclimatised (read more on how to avoid altitude sickness) of pretty decent fitness, and have hiking experience.

2. Take plenty of layers. Because of the huge changes in altitude, you’ll go from pretty chilly to very warm. We started the hike in shorts and jumpers (although trousers and a wooly hat wouldn’t have been amiss at the beginning|), and finished stripped down to vests. We wouldn’t attempt this hike if there has been a lot of rainfall in previous days.

3. Bring all supplies with you and enough cash with you, as for obvious reasons, there is nowhere to source anything once on the hike.

4. Prepare for a long day of walking. We set off from our hostel at 7.30 am and didn’t return until after dark. The actual hike will take around 7 - 8 hours depending how long you stop for lunch, photos and to explore the ruins.

5. There are a few spots where you can fill travel filter water bottles along the way (especially on the descent) - if you don’t have these, ensure you bring sufficient supplies of water.

6. Be sure to use sunscreen. The sun was hidden behind clouds for duration of our hike but we still got burnt.

7. The isolated nature also means we'd probably advise against solo hikers unless you're super confident and have informed someone exactly when you expect to return. It’s a good idea for anyone heading on the hike to let someone at your hostel / accommodation know your plans too.

8. Charge up your phone and bring a battery pack if you have one, and have All Trails, Maps.Me and / or a Google Map downloaded.

For more general advice and tips, check out our other article: 12 Essential Things To Know Before Hiking in Peru

Getting to the Start of the Hike

To begin with, you need to make your way to the colectivo stop at Calle Pavacitos (maps). There will likely be a chap shouting the destination 'Ollantaytambo' - this is the colectivo you want, but just tell him that you're heading to Laguna Piuray / Chinchero, and he'll know where to drop you off.

The journey takes 40 - 50 minutes and costs 6 soles per person. Note that we arrived at the station at 7.50 am but had to wait for the bus to fill, eventually setting off at 8.20 am.

At the drop off point in Chinchero, there will be a number of taxis waiting for fares. Here, you have the option to wait for other passengers and share the ride, or alternatively just jump in by yourself (this is what we did as we were keen to get going) - ask to be dropped off at the entrance to the ‘Camino Inca Huchuy Qosqo’.

We had read that the price was 10 soles, however after having been quoted 15 by the driver, we settled on 12 soles. The journey time is around 15 minutes; be sure to keep your eyes glued to the window at all times, as it's wonderfully rural in these parts and a really fantastic insight into the indigenous way of life in Peru.

As a side note, if you haven't come prepared with all your snacks/drinks, you should pick them up before jumping in the colectivo or taxi.

The taxi will drop you off in front of a very clear sign which signals the beginning of the hike.

Note that it’s also possible to walk this section instead of taking the taxi, but that adds in about 5k.

Tackling the Hike to Huchuy Cosqo

One of the most striking elements of this trek was how we seemed to pass through such varied landscapes and climates over the course of the day. Based on that and our experience, it feels fitting to break the long hike to Huchuy Qosqo down into four sections:

Section One

Upon leaving the taxi and stomping onwards, there is a gradual but perceptible incline, from approximately 3,700m to over 4,000m.

The altitude can make this a little challenging, but we found the beautiful landscapes - reminiscent of Scotland or the Faroe Islands - to be more than enough of a distraction from the quickened breath.

Encountering just one man and his herd of wild horses during this section, plus a troupe of wild alpacas, it was here that we began to realise just how isolated this hike, these ruins and we really were.

This section ends following a steep climb up a set of basic steps where you’ll find two cairn-type piles of rocks. Fast hikers will make it to these steps within an hour, hour and a half.

Section Two

The second section of this hike begins with a trek across landscapes similar to the altiplano. It's very dry with only the hardiest of plant life, you'll see lots of small lakes and visible snow-peaked mountains in the distance.

This section is relatively flat for around another hour before it begins to descend, marked by the appearance of more tropical looking plant life.

Section Three

This part of the hike is pretty damn incredible, and reminded us of some scenes straight out of Black Panther!

Expect to see vast waterfalls cascading down rock fronts, hundreds of bushes of curious-looking tropical plants, a humid climate, bird song and the distant sound of running water.

After approximately one hour straight downhill, you’ll come to a section of overgrown ruins, which feel very Indiana Jones-esque (we don’t make film references on all hikes, we promise). After a brief moment of confusion where we thought these actually were the Huchuy Cosqo ruins, we settled upon a rock to enjoy lunch.

Sitting there alone on hidden-away partially covered Peruvian ruins, eating hostel-made tuna sandwiches, was a moment that was pretty special from our travels.

It is here that you’ll also find the first sign toward the actual ruins (which is mighty reassuring after several hours of hiking!).

Section Four

The final section before reaching the ruins is one of steep descent. You'll soon spot Huchuy Qosqo from above, but it may not be clear exactly how to reach them - indeed, there appear to be a number of possible routes.

We chose to initially follow the sign, then veer hard right about halfway down along an obvious path through thick bushes. From here, you’ll cross over a small river and continue down to reach the ruins.

Exploring the ruins of Huchuy Qosqo

Upon arriving at Huchuy Qosqo, the first thing that will likely strike you is how remarkably well preserved they are, providing a real insight into how the Incas lived there all those years ago.

Being located on a plateau high up, it also provides exceptional, sweeping views across the Sacred Valley and the Vilcabamba Mountain range.

We spent around 30 minutes exploring the ruins before heading off, keen to make it back to Cusco before dark, but could easily have spent longer. In fact, if you're keen you can even camp there overnight for free (this is permitted, not wild camping).

There is no official spot to pay once you reach the ruins (though this may change in future we imagine), but a man in a uniform soon spotted us and came running over to take our money and provide a ticket. It was 22 soles each when we visited, but it appears that the price has since been reduced to 7 soles per person...go figure.

Note that the ruins are not included on the Cusco Boleto Turistico.

How to Get Back to Cusco

Whilst you'll be pleased to know that you don't have to hike back the way you came, the bad news is that the trek down to Lamay - to catch your transport back to Cusco - is not the easiest, with a very steep decline for the majority of the trail.

Personally, we were very grateful to have our hiking poles with us, and have no doubt that the 1 hour and 45 minutes it took to reach Lamay could have been much longer without them!

The trail is however very well marked and easy to follow.

Just before you reach Lamay, you'll see Restaurant Parwa and then cross a large bridge - the colectivos leave five minutes away from here, where there are also a number of food stalls and a small restaurant to grab a drink.

In our experience, there is no specific colectivo station; they pass on the main road next to the restaurant where they will stop and shout if they have room. If unsure on where to go / stand, ask at the restaurant. The ride back to Cusco takes 40 minutes and costs 5 soles per person.

The colectivo terminates in the new town at Estacion de Buses Urumbamba y Calca from which we chose to grab a taxi back to our accommodation given it was a bit of a walk away, we were shattered, and it was dark.