“Paths veiled by an eternal stretch, arrow alleys between glimpses of historic passion; with late steps I come to my heart, an unbelievable gaze that attracts me...”
Forty minutes drive from Ragusa or Noto, and nestled within a valley formed by four hills, lies the spectacular town of Modica.
One of eight UNESCO Heritage ‘Val di Noto’ towns and cities in south-eastern Sicily whose architectural landscape changed forever following the devastating earthquake of 1693, the medieval old town once carved into rock has been replaced by stunning baroque facades, extravagant churches and beautiful palaces; the old and new connected by a maze of narrow streets and staircases.
It is a town whose geography can make on-foot explorations a little more complicated than simply following a map from point A to B, but with enough time and an acceptance that a wrong turn that leads to a new viewpoint over the valley and tumbling buildings below can never really be wrong at all, Modica will capture your heart like many visitors who have gone before.
This is our personal guide to Modica, with all the best things to do, some advice one where to eat, and a great selection of places to stay.
Understanding the Geography of Modica
“A city with two cities.”
Trust us, it can take a little while to get your head around…
It was a deep gorge between the Iblei Mountains from which the town of Modica sprung, long ago when it was not traffic that flowed down Corso Umberto but the two rivers, Ianni Mauro and Pozzo dei Prun.
A flood-prone valley meant that early settlers had little choice but to seek shelter in hill top caves, and the town was originally carved into stone; a warren of winding alleys and grey rock that became known as Modica Alta - or Upper Modica.
As the town grew, the decision was taken to cover the problematic rivers, and the newer Modica Bassa (Lower Modica) was born, tumbling down the steep slopes and into the valley below.
Whilst those sat at the highest heights no longer require access to the water and the rivers below, many of the old staircases built solely for this purpose still exist today, forever connecting the ‘two cities’ and offering a chance for visitors to enjoy spectacular views on the way up or down.
With that said however, we do appreciate that the steep climb up to Modica Alta will be pretty challenging for many people - in the high heat, even we struggled!
Thankfully, there is an urban bus that leaves from Corso Umberto 1, 470 (next to the intercity bus stop, opposite ‘Barycentro’) and drops you off in Modica Alta - but do note that the service can be somewhat irregular and you may have to wait up to 40 minutes. Cost is €1.10 per person for a single fare, or you can buy a day pass for €1.80.
Did You Know?
Many scenes from the super popular Sicilian detective show - Inspector Montalbano - were filmed here, and fans may recognise several of Modica’s most famous sites, such as the Church of San Giorgio and the facade of Palazzo Polara.
Things to Do in Modica
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Wander along Corso Umberto
Whether you are in Modica for a day trip or a longer sojourn, we’d recommend every visitor begins their explorations along Corso Umberto, the main street which passes through Modica Alta. With a bounty of boutique stores, historic churches and beautiful squares, it’s the perfect spot for people watching, especially in the late afternoon.
Don’t miss:
Palazzo De Leva | Just off of Corso Umberto lies the beautiful town mansion of the De Leva family, now used for art exhibitions and cultural events.
Teatro Garibaldi | An elegant 19th century theatre that still plays host to ballet, opera and more contemporary offerings.
Museo Civico | Located in Palazzo della Cultura (worth a stop on its own), the Museo Civico is where those wanting to understand a little more about the city’s history should head.
Explore the City’s Churches
Modica is known as the ‘city of a hundred bells and a hundred churches’, so it should come as little surprise that churches are going to factor in pretty highly into any suggestions on things to do in the city. And whilst we’re not suggesting that you visit them all, there are definitely a handful that you should make time for.
Duomo di San Giorgio | Located in Modica Alta, this is considered one of Sicily's most impressive baroque churches and Rosario Gagliardi's great masterpiece. Famed for its 250 steps connecting upper and lower Modica, it provides outstanding views over the city. Find it here on Google Maps.
Duomo di San Pietro | Considered by many to be the most important historical building in Modica Bassa, the building was has been almost entirely reconstructed, with the addition of the vast staircase lined with life-sized structures of the Apostles in 1876.
Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista | A beautiful baroque church in its own right, the reason we consider Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista a must visit is due to its location at the very top of Modica Alta - the highest point in the city - with a nearby viewing platform offering breathtaking views of the old town and the surrounding countryside.
San Nicolo Inferiore | The most unique place of worship on this list, this 12th-century church, carved into rock is Modica’s oldest, and remained undiscovered until 1987. You can read more about the church here.
As ever in Italy, please note that many churches and cathedrals remain active places of worship; you need to act and dress appropriately.
Visit Castello dei Conti
Perched atop a rocky outcrop high above the town sits the Castello dei Conti, a relic of medieval Modica dating back to at least the 13th century. Painstakingly restored (at least partially, anyway) over the last 10 years, a visit here provides a glimpse into the town’s history before the earth shook.
The castle is open Monday, Wednesday - Saturday 10 am - 7.30 pm and is accessible on foot from the centre of Modica. You can find it on the map here.
Don’t miss | Near the walls of the castle you’ll find an early 18th century clock tower (Torre dell’Orologio), built upon the remains of a 17th-century lookout tower destroyed by the earthquake of 1693.
Enjoy Modica’s Chocolate Culture
For many years, Sicily was part of the Spanish Kingdom. And so when the Conquistadors ‘discovered’ cocoa on their voyages to Latin America, the island was one of the first to receive this new bounty, alongside the ancient Aztec methods of chocolate making.
400 years later, and Modica remains the custodian of this age-old practice and the very best place to enjoy authentic Sicilian chocolate.
For those that are more accustomed to the sweet, milky stuff produced in the rest of Europe it’s important to note that what you will enjoy here is quite different, often flavoured with chilli, cinnamon, vanilla or even the local red wine, ‘Nero d’Avalo’, and processed in a way where the sugar remains granulous - meaning that the chocolate crumbles more so than melts in your mouth.
It’s an absolute must try for even those that tend to prefer savoury treats.
Be sure to head over to Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate shop in Sicily. There are plenty of samples for you to try and a wide variety to buy. A word of warning to vegetarians: avoid the Mpanatigghi, a traditional Modican biscuit that contains a meaty surprise alongside honey, almonds and chocolate.
If you’d like to discover more about the history of chocolate making in the region (or take a look at the rather bizarre collection of cocoa sculptures), don’t miss the small Museo del Cioccolato di Modica. Entry is €2.50 per person and opening times can be found on their website.
For die-hard chocolate lovers, it’s worth keeping an eye on announcements for the annual chocolate festival (it varies each year), on the off-chance that it coincides with your visit to Sicily.
Foodie experiences you can’t miss
It’s fair to say that it’s a convenient coincidence that a city with so many steep staircases also has a number of outstanding restaurants, local delicacies and foodie hotspots. For those that love to experience a new place through their stomach, these are some you can’t miss:
Cafe Adamo | Said to be the best gelato in town (we didn’t have time to try anywhere else), a stop here for a sweet treat is a must. It’s famous for its pistachio offerings but we found the chocolate gelato to be pretty good too (but incredibly decadent).
Accursio | If you’re in town on a short holiday and feeling fancy, this intimate Michelin-star restaurant is a fantastic option, and the tasting menu comes very highly. For something more affordable, consider Accursio Radicci (the cheaper sister restaurant) a few doors down.
Singola Organic Restaurant | As vegetarians (and Andrew eating the odd bit of fish), we never struggled in Sicily, but whilst looking for a lunch spot our research led us to Singola, a restaurant that focuses on organic vegetarian and vegan food with Sicilian flare. It’s a little out of town - and set within a lovely garden - but if you’re based here, and craving something plant-based, the reviews are wonderful.
Where to Stay in Modica
Given the geography we referred to earlier, we’d recommend considering how much walking you’re prepared to do up and down stairs before picking your accommodation, especially if you’re planning to use Modica as a base from which to explore eastern Sicily. Modica Alta will mean breathtaking views from your balcony, but a damn good butt workout on the way up!
Here are a pick of our favourites, covering both areas.
Hotels & Guesthouses in Modica
Edel Modica | The most expensive hotel on this list (double rooms from £100/night), Edel is a stunning boutique residence with just the right mix of luxury and tradition. Large rooms with original features, rooftop hot tubs and terraces from which to enjoy the views. It’s a very highly rated hotel. Find out more and check availability here.
L'Orangerie | An incredibly grand property with a quirky flare, it’s set in the most stunning period property with spectacular views from a large terrace. Doubles start from less than £80 a night. Find out more and check availability here.
Chicchi Di Melograno | A really quaint, elegantly refurbished B&B run by a lovely local lady keen to help guests make the best of their time. It’s centrally located and even has parking available outside (a rarity in Modica). Doubles from £55 a night. Find out more and check availability here.
B&B Il Giardino Dei Mandarini | A small-ish B&B run by a local family, full of original features like solid wooden furniture, original stone walls and beautiful floors. It also has a lovely little garden for guests to enjoy their breakfast (reviewers rave about the quality!) or a glass of wine in the evening. Doubles from £50 a night. Find out more and check availability here.
Airbnbs in Modica
We’ve done all the hard work to find the best Airbnbs in Modica for your stay - you just have to find your own favourite from our list!
Our Absolute Favourites
Palazzo degli Olivi | Beautiful Casa Petra | Hidden gem in the heart of Modica
For Large Groups
Spacious home in old town Modica
Best Views
Monserrato 108 | A jump in the city
Under £50 a Night
Amarilla Old Town | La Grotta Del Conte | Casa San. Paolo | Casa l'Amuri | Casa del Vicolo Stretto | Al Vicoletto Remigia Modica | Caleidoscopio @ Bianco
Worth a Splurge!
Parking in Modica
Like all Italian historical centres, unless you live there, it’s really not advisable to drive in. Parking is at a premium, you may get caught unawares in a ZTL zone, and - for drivers of big cars especially - negotiating one way systems along tiny little roads can be a little nerve wracking.
Instead, do as we did and park in the new town, but within easy walking distance to the centro storico. There are several paid options that you can choose from, but we plucked for free parking here when visiting from Noto.
If staying in Modica, or other historic towns and cities in Sicily, then we highly recommend contacting your accommodation in advance to confirm the parking situation and to find out where they recommend parking nearby. If you’re planning on a road trip around the island, then make sure you read this post: 15 Essential Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily.
