Planning a trip to eastern Sicily but not sure what route to take or where to visit? We’ve got you covered in this two-week east Sicily itinerary - perfect for a road trip or those using public transport.
During our first Sicily road trip, we drove the perimeter of the island and some of its interior over the span of a month; it's little surprise we fell head over heels with it.
Yet, even with the luxury of that amount time, we still had to jettison several highlights of eastern Sicily, including Syracuse and Ortigia. Although it would have been possible to include them on our route then, simply spending all our time moving and driving and zipping through some stunning destinations is not our travel style.
Therefore, at the tailend of our seven-week Italian trip last year, we were at a backstreet bar determining where to go after Naples; the late summer sun on this particular adventure was fading and falling south, and we weren't keen to let it go with the prospect of a long British winter ahead of us.
An earlier than expected return to Sicily was the clear winner, and this allowed us to focus solely on the areas of the island's east coast which we chose to miss out on the previous year.
More importantly, it finally allowed us to curate this east Sicily itinerary for you lovely people!
This route will bring you to several of our favourite things to do in Sicily: the crazy fish market in Catania; sunbathing on the rocks in Ortigia; exploration of several honey-hued baroque towns; Roman amphitheatres and Greek temples; wild and not-so-wild beaches on the south-east coast; Montalbano locations and several UNESCO World Heritage sights; a bunch of amazing foodie stops; time on Europe's most active volcano.
(oh, and there's ample time baked in for spontaneous fun, sun, rest, dolce vita, and serendipity).
We have structured it as a manageable and realistic 14-day east Sicily itinerary, but it's fully adaptable if you only have a week to 10 days and we've clearly highlighted where and how to adapt it. Rather than just list a number of places in eastern Sicily, we've curated a defined route which you can realistically follow and, most importantly, enjoy.
This is the itinerary we'd do if flying into Catania, based on our own experiences and travel style, and we've designed it to enable you can make the most of the places we loved the most, but also go at the slower, immersive pace at which we like to travel (after all, there really is no fun to be had in just moving on each day and being in the car more often than anywhere else on your holiday!).
This is our eastern Sicily itinerary for independent travellers.
east sicily itinerary
/ Can be done with public transport or rental car
/ Starts and ends in Catania
/ Two weeks
/ Easily adaptable
/ It ncludes:
- 2 nights in Catania
- 3 nights in Syracuse & Ortigia
- 3 nights in Noto
- 2 nights in Agrigento
- 3 nights in Taormina (or nearby)
A FEW THINGS TO KNOW FIRST...
As we mention in our Sicily road trip post, where the focus is on western Sicily, it's really important not to feel you can complete all of Sicily in the space of 7 to 14 days. Trying to drive or travel the east and west sections of the island in that window will not be enjoyable, and isn't terribly practically either.
That's why it's best to focus on travelling deeper in just the east or west, and to not regret that you won't be able to visit each and every place that looks amazing on the island - instead, simply savour that you're able to travel in Sicily for any time at all.
We're not going to go into too much depth in this post, as we've linked to our specific destinations guides for everywhere we're sending you. However, we'd strongly encourage you to also read three other posts whilst you're in the planning stage for Sicily or choosing whether to focus on the western and eastern side:
1. This Is Our Perfect Sicily Road Trip Itinerary
2. 15 Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily
3. 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Sicily (published soon)
They contain all the tips, advice, and information that we didn't want to duplicate here.
This Sicily itinerary starts and ends in Catania, which is the principal entrypoint for trips on the east coast (if you're flying into Palermo, it makes more sense to follow this route).
The two main decisions you have to make from there are:
1. Whether to spend any time in the city of Catania.
2. Whether to go north or south first.
There's no right answer to the above, and it does depend on your travel style and the sorts of experiences you wish to focus on. Have no desire to be in a city? Then don't go to Catania (though it's got quite a bit going for it). However, if you're flying in late in the day, then it makes sense to probably have a night and day there to settle in, and possibly take the opportunity to use it as a base from which to visit Mount Etna or do other day trips.
The north / south question is completely down to you, and won't make a huge difference. In the eastern Sicily itinerary below, we've put you south first as it's got more destinations clustered together, and makes logistical sense - it's what we'd do.
If you're only in Sicily for a week, we'd suggest focussing simply on that south east corner of the island - if visiting for 10 or 14 days, you can then choose to go further west to the Valley of the Temples or shoot up north to cover a few other places, like Taormina. Again we've explained this a little more in the relevant section.
We never want to be too prescriptive so that every person on an eastern Sicily trip ends up following the exact same route!
RENTAL CAR, TRAIN, OR BUS?
We firmly believe that Sicily is best explored with a rental car.
It gives you flexibility, the ability to go more off-the-beaten-track, and a great level of independence.
However, we appreciate that driving in Sicily will no be everyone's cup of tea due to its reputation, or that renting a car may not be possible for everyone.
Due to this, this itinerary is suitable for those using public transport, which is actually relatively good in the south east corner of the island, as well as those on a road trip
If you are choosing to travel Sicily principally by public transport, that's great from a sustainability and slow travel perspective. There are a few things to be aware of in advance though:
1. The trains in Sicily aren't as efficient or regular as mainland Italy. They're still the best option for certain journeys, but don't be surprised if the journey you want to make isn't necessarily covered or direct.
View schedules and book tickets via Trenitalia or Italiarail, and take a read of our train travel in Italy tips at some point too.
2. The bus is actually the most reliable, quicker, and convenient option for getting between most places on this itinerary - local company Interbus are the best, and you can easily view their schedules and book tickets on their website. Alternatively, Omio is worth a look.
3. You will be able to easily follow this itinerary, especially for the first six or seven days, but may have to sacrifice a few experiences and less accessible spots due to dependence upon transport schedules and routes.
4. Taking a day tour for one or two experiences will be essential and much more convenient for you if trying to cover more in a short space of time or to go from one side of eastern Sicily to an attraction 2+ hours away by public transport.
Road trippers face a different set of issues, but we've outlined those in 15 Things To Know Before Driving in Sicily.
OUR EAST SICILY ITINERARY | DAY BY DAY
DAY ONE | FLY INTO CATANIA
The second largest city on the island, and the main gateway for the east coast, Catania is an underrated destination.
It isn't as pretty as Palermo in the north, with a little more grit amongst the black lava walls. However, Catania's chaotic morning fish market is legendary, it's the home of pasta alla norma, a little bit hipster, and showcases an enjoyable contrast to the daintier, more elegant coastal destinations you'll visit on the rest of this itinerary.
Catania is also the best place from which to find tours to several popular spots in eastern Sicily so, if you're short on time, consider a longer stay in order to see more of Sicily from there, before moving south to Syracuse.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
From Catania Fontanarossa Airport, also known as Aeroporto Internazionale Vincenzo Bellini, take the regular AMT ‘ALIBUS’ shuttle bus (€4 per person, 20 minutes).
Since March 2021, there’s also a train connection between the airport and the city.
If this east Sicily adventure is going to be a road trip, we’d actually recommend not picking up your rental car straight away. Parking will be really challenging and driving in and out of the city isn't the best introduction to Sicily's drivers...plus you won't really need it for the city itself.
Instead, take the bus in, enjoy a car-free day or two, then go and pick it up once you're ready to move on. It is also possible to rent cars in Syrcause, but prices are a little higher.
We recommend searching via AutoEurope to get really cheap deals and reading this post '9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers' to save a lot of money and stress.
//STAY
We had several nights at this Airbnb - nothing remarkable but well-located, affordable, and functional. We've shared more recommendations for you in out 'Where To Stay in Catania' post (published soon).
//PLAN
Find out the best things to do in Catania in our guide: 13 Wonderful Things To Do In Catania.
DAY TWO | EXPLORE CATANIA
Depending upon what time your flight arrived yesterday, you may want to use today to explore a little bit more of the city. Alternatively, if you fancy beginning your holiday with a bit of adventure, head out on a day trip to Mount Etna (don’t worry if you are a little tight on time, you’ll have another opportunity to summit Europe’s most active volcano later in the trip).
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
No car or transport is required today if remaining in Catania as the city is compact and walkable. If hoping to visit Etna independently, make sure to read our guide in advance.
//STAY
Wherever you stayed last night.
//PLAN
DAY THREE | TRAVEL TO SYRACUSE
Setting off after breakfast, you’ll head south to the ancient - and impeccably beautiful - city of Syracuse, your base for the next two nights. Founded more than 2,500 years ago by the Corintihans, it is home to Ancient Greek ruins, honey-coloured medieval streets and the bluest blues of the Ionian Sea.
Perhaps somewhat confusingly, the city of Syracuse is actually made up of two popular tourist destinations: Syracuse (the newer city which is also home to the Greek Parco Archeologico della Neapolis) and the island of Ortigia (the stunningly atmospheric old town), and you’ll have time on this itinerary to visit both.
It is also well-situated for a variety of day trips to several lovely spots elsewhere on the coast too.
Whether you’re arriving in Syracuse by car or public transport, you should have time after lunch for a little bit of sightseeing. The island of Ortigia is relatively small, the perfect size in fact to explore in an afternoon; simply follow your nose, stop in at beautiful churches, grab a drink overlooking a the sea and get lost in its ancient streets.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
For those of you driving, this is the morning when you’ll need to pick up your rental car, either from the airport, or alternatively there are a number of well known rental agencies just north of the city, in the Borgo-Sanzio neighbourhood. There are also options to hire your rental in Syracuse.
Once you have collected your vehicle, Syracuse is a straightforward drive south, and will take about an hour.
Interbus has hourly departures to Syracuse from Catania. Journey time is 80 minutes and tickets cost €6.40. You can find timetables and book in advance here.
Alternatively, there is a regular train service from Catania Centrale which takes between 80 minutes and two hours depending upon the service.
Note that the final bus stop and Siracusa train station is a good 20-minute walk away from the centre of Ortigia, but the Siracusa D’Amare electric bus (€1 for 90 minutes) does a regular shuttle loop from there over the bridges and around the island.
//STAY
Whilst there are bountiful accommodation options in both the old and new town, for this trip, we’d highly recommend you base yourself in the heart of Ortigia. Although Syracuse has a number of tourist attractions, the historical centre is by far the prettiest part and the area that you’ll want to spend the majority of your time.
However, because of limitations on non-local traffic, those with a vehicle may struggle with parking in Ortigia and Syracuse may prove more convenient (especially if you want to do day trips).
We stayed in this stylish Airbnb in Syracuse, which included free bicycles, but there are much more romantic and atmospheric options available and they're included in our destination guide.
//PLAN
We've shared all our favourite things to do, plus more accommodation and restaurant recommendations in our guide to Syracuse & Ortigia.
DAY FOUR | Relax in Ortigia
Given the layout of this twin-city, it makes sense to separate out each day’s activities geographically. And, having spent the last couple of days in a relatively large city, today is the perfect time to relax and go slow in Ortigia.
Have a breakfast of cappuccino and cornetto, pop your head into the fabulously authentic local market, then make your way to one of the temporary lidos that pop up along the shore during the summer months. On a bit of a budget? Don’t worry, there are free sunbathing spots at the small free beach or - as we much preferred - on the rocks with the locals!
You can find our top swimming and sun spots in our guide to Syracuse and Ortigia.
In the evening, grab a sunset drink and dinner at one of the city’s excellent restaurants.
//DRIVE & Transport
You’re vehicle free today - enjoy it!
//STAy
Where you stayed last night.
//PLAN
DAY FIVE | SYRACUSE
This morning will be spent exploring the Greek ruins of Parco Archeologico della Neapolis. An open-air museum of sorts, it hosts a jumble of complexes and constructions including the 5th century BC Teatro Greco. Given the summer temperatures, we’d recommend beginning your explorations nice and early to avoid the worst of the heat.
After you can either wander a little deeper into Syracuse (we recommend the San Giovanni Catacombs and Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime) or make your way back to Ortigia.
Consider taking a short boat trip out in the afternoon/early evening to enjoy a dip and a different vantage point.
Alternatively, if the thought of trudging around ancient ruins and old crypts doesn’t really excite you, you could use this day to take the car and head out to a few places for beachtime, swimming, and lunch with a sea breeze. A few to put in your map are: Spiaggia di Fontane Bianche, Lido Arenella (not free), and Plemmirio Nature Reserve.
//DRIVE & transport
It’s around a half hour walk from Ortigia to the ruins, or alternatively you can jump on the Siracusa D’Amare (a tourist shuttle bus, €1). Bicycle rental is also a popular thing to do here and is a viable alternative.
Should you want to head out to the beaches, having a car will make things much, much easier. There are however bus connections to a few spots along the coast, but your best bet will be to just pick one place for the day rather than trying to spread yourself too thinly.
//STAY
Where you stayed last night.
//PLAN
We've shared more advice on the coastal area and beaches in the guide to Syracuse and the Island of Ortigia.
DAY SIX | DRIVE TO NOTO & ENJOY
Another day, another stunning Sicilian town. This time it’s Noto, a place that epitomises the look of 'Sicilian Baroque', the highly regarded architectural style which flourished as entire cities and towns in the south east were reborn following the devastating earthquake of 1693.
Indeed, the beauty resulting from that tragedy is the reason that eight places in the Val di Noto region - including Catania - are protected UNESCO World Heritage sites.
None, however, are more beautiful than Noto.
So perfect and so elegant is its historical centre, it’s somewhat easy to forget that this is a place where people live, and not a museum or some eerily accurate film set.
The late Baroque town of Noto is only a 45-minute drive from Syracuse, but you'd be missing out if you chose to just drop in and out; not only is it stunning with a lovely atmosphere in the evening, Noto is also an ideal place from which to explore lesser-visited spots on the south east coastline.
Therefore, it's your next stop for three nights.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
An easy travel day, with Noto just 45 minutes or so from Syracuse by car and 30 minutes by the regular train.
//STAY
There's a lovely selection of small B&Bs, boutique hotels and Airbnbs in Noto. We stayed in this apartment, run by the most wonderful family.
Our guide has more picks for all budgets and travel style, or alternatively take a look at our guide to the ‘Best Airbnbs in Noto’.
//PLAN
Find out more about Noto, plus our picks for accommodation and the best things to do there, in our 'Essential Guide to Noto'
DAY SEVEN | EXPLORE NOTO & THE COAST
Today we recommend setting off early with the car to explore some highlights of the east coast of Sicily.
Choose to base yourself at one spot for the day, or make it a mini-road trip to find your own favourite spot: a few of ours to put in your map are Spiaggia di Calamosche and Marianelli, lunch in Marzamemi, Avola, or a decadent day at one of the many lido / beach clubs.
Linger long until the sunset, or head back for golden hour drinking and dining back in Noto.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
The rental car will pay for itself today as you go from little cove to sandy beach, pretty fishing port to wild beaches down dusty roads. It is actually possible to hire a car from Noto, so if you’re travelling with public transport but don't want t be limited, you may well wish to consider doing this.
If not, then you're defnitely going to be more restricted today (and for most other days when based in Noto). There are buses to various points along the coast though, so our advice is to pick one and spend the day there.
//STAY
Wherever you stayed last night.
//PLAN
Where To Find The Very Best Beaches in Sicily
//KNOW
If you're in eastern Sicily for 7 days, then you may wish to sacrifice this day in order to drive to Ragusa and Modica (see next section). Movements should be based around your flight time and the 2-3 hour drive back to Catania Airport from Ragusa, or the 1-hour drive to it from Noto.
Ending your week with a day at the beach rather than in another baroque town may be exactly what you want to do though!
DAY EIGHT | Take a Day Trip to Ragusa &/or Modica
If Noto is the jewel in the Val di Noto crown, then Ragusa and Modica are the glittering diamonds either side of it, with Modica famous for its chocolates, and Ragusa for its regular feature in the Sicilian TV drama, Inspector Montalbano
They're only 25 minutes from eachother, with a similar story to tell in terms of stunning post-earthquake architecture and layout.
Given their proximity, if you have your own vehicle, we recommend setting off early and visiting both towns. If you are relying on public transport however, you will need to pick which one you’d prefer to explore.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
It's about an hour's drive from Noto to Ragusa, and 45 minutes to Modica.
There are good train connections between Ragusa and Noto (90 minutes). The train station is located in Ragusa’s new town, from which you can jump on one of the local AST buses to the historic centre. Alternatively, there are regular buses from Noto with AST.
The route between Noto and Modica is a little quicker (train takes an hour, bus around 80 minutes) which may be the deciding factor for those who want to limit their time stuck on public transport.
For train timetables, as well as the option to book tickets in advance, see either Trenitalia or Italiarail - and be sure to read 12 Tips for Train Travel in Italy.
//STAY
Wherever you stayed last night in Noto
//PLAN
A Short Guide To Ragusa | The City of Two Halves
A Short Guide to Modica | Home of Sicily's Best Chocolate
//KNOW
If you're only in Sicily for 10 days, then you may only wish to visit Ragusa & Modica for a few hours each before driving up to Taormina today (2 hours / 146 km).
DAY nine | Drive West towards Agrigento
Okay, first things first.
If you’re travelling around eastern Sicily with public transport, this is where you’ll have to deviate from this itinerary. Although trains and buses connect many places along the north, east and west coasts, getting south is not straight forward and very time consuming.
Therefore, we’d recommend skipping forward to ‘Day Eleven’ and heading from Noto to Taormina / Aci Trezza / Aci Castello instead. This itinerary can then either become a 10-day itinerary, or you can chuck on a couple of extra days elsewhere to round it up to the full two weeks.
Right, now we’ve got that sorted, time to head to the south coast - in search of spectacular beaches, and Sicily’s most impressive Greek ruins - the Valley of the Temples.
It’s a three-hour drive to Agrigento, so be sure to set off early from Noto to make the most of your day.
You could theoretically visit the Temples in the afternoon, but given that it requires a lot of walking in the sun, we’d advise saving them until tomorrow and instead either explore Agrigento, check out some of the nearby beaches or - if you don’t mind jumping back in the car again - drive over to the wild and windswept Torre Salsa. Many of the beaches and swimming spots we’ve mentioned in this itinerary are, understandably, very busy in the summer months, so the beaches of Torre Salsa (a protected and undeveloped nature reserve) will offer a pleasant respite.
//DRIVE & TRANSPORT
With the car, it's about a three-hour drive toward Agrigento, the town next to the Valley of the Temples.
Do note that upon placing ‘Agrigento’ as your destination into Google Maps, it will automatically place you on a route that goes via Catania, then down and across. Due to the highway, this is absolutely the fastest route, but it sort of defeats the point of a circular road trip! That, and the slower coastal and countryside road from Noto is really quite lovely.
//STAY
Stay in Agrigento, or use this as an opportunity to stay for two nights in a random small Sicilian town, a countryside retreat, or beautiful property by the sea. That's the sort of experience travelling slowly with a rental car offers up, so take advantage of it!
//PLAN
DAY ten | The Valley of the Temples
Whether you’ve chosen to stay in Agrigento or at a small countryside retreat, today you’re going to want to be up and out in the early morning to make the most of your time in The Valley of the Temples before it gets super super hot.
It’s only a 10-minute drive from Agrigento, but you’ll need at least three to four hours then depending upon how fascinated you are by the ancient Greeks.
Afterwards, it’s time for the beach! Specifically, the spectacular Scala dei Turchi (the Turkish Stairs).
//DRIVE
Besides the super short drive to the Valley of the Temples, the journey to the Scala dei Turchi will take around 15 minutes.
//STAY
Where you stayed last night.
//Plan
DAY eleven | Heading back towards Taormina
You have a decent drive ahead of you today (2.5 - 3.5 hours depending upon the route you take), so we’d recommend setting off nice and early.
The popular hilltop town of Taormina wasn't our favourite place in east Sicily, but it is undoubtedly adored by many. It's certainly very pretty, in a gorgeous setting overlooking the sea, and has much history and culture to explore - it's just that, for us, we found the cruise ship groups a little overwhelming.
However, it isn't a bad place to end your trip, and it's a perfect location from which to visit Mount Etna independently or with a tour, as well as do a number of other fun day trips.
An alternative base to consider for independent travellers with a car is Aci Castello and Aci Trezza, from which you can drive to Taormina and Etna on day trips.
If you took our advice, you’ll have the entire afternoon to explore today, so take this time to familiarise yourself with the town.
//DRIVE
It's a 3-hour / 214 km drive from Agrigento to Taormina.
//STAY
Note that you don't have to stay in Taormina.
There are a bunch of fancy hotels and hideaways in the vicinity, as well as plenty options by the sea down in Giardini Naxos, so consider finding somewhere more memorable or relaxing for your final nights.
//PLAN
DAY Twelve | Visit Mount ETNA
If you chose to explore more of Catania during the first few days of your trip, today is the day that you’ll get to visit Mount Etna, one of the world’s most active volcanos! We promise you, it’s something you don’t want to miss.
If you’ve got your own vehicle, you’ll have a few more options for excursions (or even the option to visit completely independently) but if you’re relying on public transport don’t worry - there’s plenty of tours that will take you straight from Taormina.
You can find out more in our complete guide.
Alternatively, you could opt to explore the Etna wine region, head out on a Godfather tour.
//Drive & Transport
It’s just over an hour’s drive from Taormina to Etna but, given the quality of the roads, if you have to be there for a certain time, we’d recommend heading off with plenty to spare.
There is public transport to Etna, but it’s not ideal. See our guide for further details.
//STAY
Wherever you stayed last night.
//Plan
Visting Mount Etna | Everything You Need To Know
How To Spend A Day (Or More) In Taormina
Day thirteen | Chill Out at the Beach
This is your final full day in Sicily, so obviously we think you should spend it at a beach, relaxing, topping up your tan, and taking long languid dips in the crystal blue Ionian sea.
If you’ve based yourself in Taormina, this means heading down to Giardini Naxos/Isola Bella, and possibly taking a wee boat trip for a spot of snorkelling (or even a sailing trip to the Aeolian islands)
Alternatively, if you chose to stay in Aci Trezza/Aci Castello, we’d opt for one of the fancier lidos (all the details are in our guide) for an indulgent few hours in the sun.
Oh and absolutely don’t forget to eat as much parmigiana di melanzane as you can manage, gorge on lemon granita, indulge in a final brioche stuffed with gelato, sip several espressi whilst people watching and savour all you've come to love about eastern Sicily.
//Drive & Transport
Today really sin’t about jumping on a bus or in the car, instead pick a nearby beach and if possible, just walk there.
//Stay
Wherever you stayed last night.
// PLAN
DAY FOURTEEN | FLY HOME FROM CATANIA
And that, fellow travellers, is a wrap!
We know it's a lot to take in at once, but hope we’ve given you plenty of clear inspiration and information to help you plan you eastern Sicily adventure!
If you've found it useful, then we'd love if you could follow us over on Instagram (@alongdustyroads), and feel free to spread the word to any travellers you know.
For more tips and advice to help you prepare, scroll down to the bottom of the page to find a bunch of our Sicily guides - or go straight to our Italy page.
Or if you just want to go straight to the inspo, then go to 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Sicily!
Where to Next
13 Wonderful Things to Do in Sicily
Your Perfect Western Sicily Road Trip Itinerary
Syracuse and the Island of Ortigia | An Essential Travel Guide
Where to Find the Best Beaches in Sicily
15 Essential Thing to Know Before Driving in Sicily
Visiting & Hiking Mount Etna | A Complete Guide
