Looking for a destination in Ecuador that remains a little under the radar? Discover all the best things to do in Alausi, the peaceful Andean mountain town, in this guide.
Having scrambled up a very steep hill so as not to walk along the train tracks, it was getting dark. We'd lost sight of the faint trail a couple of hours ago, and were now following small piles of donkey dung to find our way home, the troupe of adopted-just-for-the-hike dogs absolutely no use despite living in town.
Contemplating the possibility of having to find shelter amongst the undergrowth, it was fair to say, this is not what we'd planned when we'd set out from the hostel that morning to hike to the Nariz del Diablo, a steep nose-shaped mountain outside of Alausi.
Located 170 kilometres north of Cuenca, this small town is not a popular destination on Ecuador’s backpacker trail, with most that pass through doing so specifically to take a ride its famous train. However, choose to spend a little longer and you will discover a quintessential Andean mountain town, a place of colourful houses and bustling squares, all just a stone’s throw from spectacular hiking trails, vast ancient lakes and a slower way of life.
In this guide we will share the best things to do in Alausi, as well as our tips on where to stay, where to eat, and transport connections.
Things to Do in Alausi
Ride the Devil's Nose Train
Note that the train is not currently running due to the ongoing health crisis. This post will be updated often but if you ride it in the meantime please do let us know in the comments.
That hike we've referred to in the intro? Well, most people come to Alausi to ride a train along the Devil's Nose (Nariz del Diablo) instead, a small part of a larger railroad built to connect Ecuador's coast with Quito.
Completed in the early 20th century, what makes this particular section such a draw is the ingenious engineering feat that was achieved to allow the train to traverse up and down nearly 800m of solid rock over a relatively short distance - something that had never been achieved before.
Much of the track has now fallen into disrepair, but the 12.5 km section that leads from Alausi found a new life ferrying not goods but tourists keen for a little adventure.
The train runs every day except Monday, with departures at 8 am and 11 am. The entire experience lasts 2.5 hours, with a 15-minute stop at the viewpoint and one hour at Sibambe Station (where there are is a museum and often indigenous dancers).
Tickets cost $33 per adult, $21 per child and can be booked in advance via the official website or at the station in Alausi. Note that there is fairly limited seating and places do tend to book up in advance.
Top tip | If you can, opt for the 8 am departure for better views before the clouds roll in. Also, you were once able to stick your head out on this journey, but a horrible accident or two ceased this practice.
Or Take a Hike!
Despite our rather-more-adventurous-than-we-intended hike to Nariz del Diablo, should you be a keen hiker or a budget backpacker that can’t afford the train ride we would still absolutely recommend it. Indeed, it was probably the highlight of our three-night stay here.
All three of the routes we’ve covered below begin and end at the same point here on Google Maps. To reach it, you’ll need to walk out the ‘Plaza del Toro’ on the outskirts of town and follow the path with Alausi behind you. You will come to a fork in the road; take the high road to the left. Continue along the road, and soon you will have Killa Wasi Hostel on your right (it is here that you will very likely have a troupe of friendly dogs join you, and insist upon staying with you for the duration of your time in the mountains) before eventually reaching the train tracks.
Cross these track and the trail will continue onwards towards the ridge, and your route of choice.
We highly recommend double-checking the route with your accommodation before you set out, as well as letting someone know your plans, taking plenty water and snacks, a fully-charged phone, and cash.
The There and Back Hike
Route | After leaving Alausi, make your way through the rural landscapes and along the ridge of the Devil’s Nose, before turning back and returning the way you came.
Distance | 9 miles to and from centre of Alausi (approx 14 km)
Time | 3.5 - 4.5 hours depending on how quick you go and how many breaks you take
Difficulty | Should you be acclimatised, this hike isn’t terribly challenging
Map | You can follow this route in Wikilocs
The Ridge and Nizag Hike
Route | Alternatively, instead of following your way back along the same route (one half of ADR hates these sorts of hikes!), from the ridge you can continue on to the small village of Nizag and then hitch a ride back to Alausi with a pick-up truck (expect to pay around 50 cents)
Distance | Unknown, sorry
Time | The hiking section of this route will take around two to three hours, and the journey time back to Alausi from Nizag is 20 minutes (be sure to factor in a short while to actually find a ride as well).
Difficulty | Physically no more challenging than the above hike, and its shorter distance makes it a good choice for those not cut out for a long trek.
The Longer Hike
Route | Consider this an add-on to the above hike, where instead of hitching a ride back to Alausi, you can continue onwards, all the way to Simbambe, the location of the Nariz del Diablo train station. From here, you will make your way back to Alausi via a trail along the tracks.
Distance | Unknown, but this is a very long hike.
Time | Getting lost a few times meant that this hike took much longer than we were expecting; around 8.5 hours. However, we have since discovered that even if we had followed the route perfectly, it would likely have taken at least 7.5 hours anyway. Therefore it is imperative that you if you choose this route, that you set off early enough to finish in the daylight.
Difficulty | This is not a desperately physically challenging hike, but the distance means that it should not be attempted by those without a good level of fitness and experience.
Alternative | If you’d like to take on this hike but the distance concerns you, you could consider this 11-mile route which doesn’t go to the Devil’s Nose viewpoint, but does visit Nazig, the train station and continues along a trail besides the track.
Wander Through the Colourful Town
One thing that struck us almost immediately upon arriving in Alausi was the colour, a place where seemingly every wall in town is painted in the shades of the rainbow. The best way to discover it? On your on two feet, following your nose, a cat or, if you absolutely must, a map.
Be sure to pass through the large central plaza (known as Plaza Principal de Alausí) which has a small landscaped area with benches as well as a small but well maintained Catholic church. Although it does get a bit of tourist traffic due to the train, Alausí offers a more refreshing insight into small-town life of Ecuador than more popular spots like Baños.
Top tip | If you’ve been travelling for a while, chances are you’ve had more than your fair share of mediocre lagers. Here, opt instead a bottle of craft beer brewed in Alausi at Reloj del Diablo Brewery (maps), right by the train station.
San Pedro Mirador
So named for the huge statue of San Pedro, the lookout point offers a lovely view over the city and of the Andes and valleys beyond.
The walk up is via a modern stone staircase and not difficult (providing you've acclimatised!), and viewpoint can be found here on Google Maps.
Top tip | Try and coincide your visit to Alausi with the weekend to make the most of the Sunday Market, when the streets are taken over by a large variety of stalls selling everything from hats to guinea pigs! The market usually lasts until early afternoon, but it’s advised to head there in the morning when it’s at its busiest.
Take a Trip to the Ozogache Lakes
Around an 80-minute drive from Alausi, within the Sangay National Park are the 45 separate lakes and lagoons which make up the wild and rugged Lagunas de Ozogoche.
Beautiful in their own right, they are famed for the huge numbers of migratory Plover birds which arrive in September and October to escape the impending winter in the north - many of which upon diving into the icy waters, drop dead, a mass suicide that no scientist is yet to fully explain.
Not the most joyful story, but one to which the local community pays tribute in a local festival, every year towards the end of September (and visitors are welcome to join).
In what we believe was a fortunate turn of events, there was not a plover to be seen during our visit to the lakes, so are happy to relay that this is a worthwhile day trip from Alausi should you be visiting in November - August. Visiting during this period of the year is great for hikers, nature enthusiasts and any that crave getting a little more off the beaten track.
Visiting the lakes independently from Alausi is tricky due to significant transport limitations but many of the hostels in town offer their own tours here. We’d recommend checking with your accommodation.
Where to Stay in Alausi
We spent our three nights in Alausi at Community Hostel, and can highly recommend it!
Run by the same guys that own Community Hostel Quito, they offer excellent, new, large and bright rooms - both privates and dorms - a communal area that, well, fosters community, and lots of activities. They don't have a guest kitchen, but they do provide super tasty guest dinners ($5 per person) and breakfast ($3 per person).
Additionally, they run small tours to both the Devil’s Nose viewpoint and the Ozogoche Lakes. All in all, and excellent place to stay and good people!
Where to Eat in Alausi
If you’re happy to eat fairly standard Ecuadorean food, there are plenty of excellently priced restaurants along both sides of Alausi’s main street (Avenida 5 de Junio), most of which offer set lunch dinner menus; the closer you get towards the train station, the more touristic the restaurants become and therefore more expensive.
Alternatively, should you be staying somewhere with a kitchen, we’d recommend popping into the super modern mercado central to stock up on groceries. You’ll be supporting local families and farmers, have the opportunity to interact with people and practise your Spanish as well as save a bit of cash as compared with buying everything in the supermarket.
How to Get to Alausi
With its location just off the Pan American highway, Alausi is super accessible from several popular places along Ecuador’s backpacker trail, including Cuenca, Baños, Riobamba and Quito.
Some of the buses from Cuenca and Riobamba don’t enter the town, instead dropping off along the Pan American highway (this is actually what happened to us). Also, keep an eye on when you’re passing by in case the driver forgets…From here it is a 1.5 km, downhill walk into Alausi. If you’re in luck, your bus will arrive into Alausi’s small station along Avenida 5 de Junio. Find it here on Google Maps.
// Bus From Cuenca to Alausi
There are regular direct buses throughout the day from Cuenca to Alausi, with the first departing at 8 am and the last at 6.30 am. Journey time is just under four hours and tickets should cost around $4.
// Bus from Baños to Alausi
The easiest way to reach Alausi from Baños is on the direct bus to Cuenca. The journey time is around four hours and will cost $4.50.
// Bus from Quito to Alausi
You have two options to reach Alausi from Quito: either opt for one of the relatively frequent direct buses (approximately every two hours), or alternatively you can change at Riobamba from where there are more regular buses to Alausi.
Journey time is around 7 hours.
